GT-14 EATON SWAP INFO

[19richie66 17,522]

I know a couple of people that have swapped them into their machines so I wanted to try and get as much info in here as possible to help others and get ideas on linkage and set-ups. So if you have done one, please feel free to post up pictures with how you did yours. If you have ideas, feel free to post them. I’m sure there are more ways than one to set it up. I’ll include a link to my transaxle build that I did for mine and my wife’s 1054. Thanks 👍

 

Transaxle thread

 

 

[953 nut 55,734]

@19richie66 Richie, your post gave me the confidence to do likewise on my GT-14. The only minor difference is that the three point lift necessitated some modification of the linkage from the motion controller, which I will document in the attached photos.  A new arm was welded to the motion controller and  an off-set from it needed to be added to clear a hydraulic hose. 

It was a bit time consuming but the outcome was well worth the effort.             

A 1/4" spacer was needed to raise the Rear Frame Member enough allow the 3 point connecting bar to clear the Eaton transmission.

The cam plate needed to be spaced high enough to clear the 3 point connecting bar without interfering with the seat support. The hardware used was just stuff I had around the shop, nothing fancy, just functional. The right frame bar had to be notched too.

 

Tight quarters in the motion controller area requires a bit of an offset for the linkage.

[ebinmaine 68,205]

Interesting stuff people.  Good information for the future.  Thanks for posting this. 

[19richie66 17,522]

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Interesting stuff people.  Good information for the future.  Thanks for posting this. 

You bet! When I did mine, it was all learn as you go. Yes there are mods that have to be made but nothing to serious. I used the 418-A motion linkages and as many parts of it as I could. With as many Eatons that there are out there, it’s a viable swap. Just have to get around the little hurdles. Going with an independent 3 point would let you get rid of the large connector bar that runs down the middle of the tunnel. A little creativity and you can build the link and lever for that. I also like the fact I have a working brake. 

Edited November 8 by 19richie66

[ebinmaine 68,205]

9 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

I also like the fact I have a working brake

 

Absolutely agreed. 

That's a HUGE difference between my '75 C160 Automatic and the late 70s "The UGLY BRUCE"  tractor for me. 

 

It's noticeable when driving them and particularly when parking at the angles we often do here.  

 

 

[19richie66 17,522]

I still haven’t gotten around to making the brake lock but it is just a matter of getting the pawl and linkage set. I built this back in 2018 in a friendly little “build off” with Aldon so it got to where it is and the little things got put off as I ran out of time. So it still needs some small things done but the functionality of it it there. Well satisfied for sure. 

[953 nut 55,734]

1 hour ago, 19richie66 said:

Going with an independent 3 point would let you get rid of the large connector bar that runs down the middle of the tunnel.

I did give that some thought but it wasn't a big deal working around the clearance issues.

[kpinnc 12,358]

The 3 point setup you have is very similar to my Bronco- mechanically at least. You could use a second cylinder and spool valve to actuate it. Just connect the cylinder between the lift arm and the tranny hitch pin. 
 

Also makes me think this setup would work well on a Classic series tractor. Might need a some gas tank mods, but nothing major. Oh dang it, now I’ve got the picture in my brain… 

 

[953 nut 55,734]

2 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

You could use a second cylinder and spool valve to actuate it

I gave that some consideration and my 3 point has the brackets for the cylinder. By the time I added a cylinder, spool valve miscellaneous fittings and hoses I would have been into it for a few hundred dollars. Being as thrifty cheap as I am it was an easy decision to find a way to gain enough clearance to use what I already have.

This photo is when the Sundstrand was in place but the loader sb frame and rear frame member with three point are the same.

[kpinnc 12,358]

7 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

I gave that some consideration and my 3 point has the brackets for the cylinder.

 How exactly did you route the lift mechanism to the rear? The Eaton leaves very little room to do it from what I’ve seen. I considered running a link beside the transmission a while back and decided against it. 

[953 nut 55,734]

The GT-14 is a bit taller than its little brothers. The lift bar went above the Sundstrand but wouldn't quite clear the Eaton so I had to add a spacer under the rear frame crossmember.

[kpinnc 12,358]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

The GT-14 is a bit taller than its little brothers. The lift bar went above the Sundstrand but wouldn't quite clear the Eaton so I had to add a spacer under the rear frame crossmember.

Very nice. I failed to notice that in the previous pics. I had thought of doing the same thing on a manual lift. My thought process is if I can lift a tiller or large mower deck with a manual, then most “size appropriate” implements should be the same. 

[19richie66 17,522]

I welded a plate between the two side bottom tabs on the seat stand and I guess you could weld another 1/4” plate below that if you needed the room. 

Edited November 9 by 19richie66