STLWheelHorse 20 #1 Posted November 1 I will start by saying I’m extremely green thumb with wheel horses. In fact, this is the first time I had even heard of them! But I saw this on the side of the road, decided to take a lick at getting it running. I can’t find any markings on it to help me with year or model. If I had to guess, 1940s-1950s for the year? Any help would be greatly appreciated! 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,793 #3 Posted November 1 That is a wheel Horse Lawn Ranger. 60's-70 vintage. Love the extra big tires and treadplate on that little rascal. I'm goin to guess the engine pulley is larger that original to speed it up. be careful they are light on the front end and might be easy to pop a wheelie. They usually have a serial number decal, which would be under that aluminum treadplate covering the dash area. If you can loosen that up to look under there it could help narrow down the year. Otherwise, some of the experts will be along to help narrow down the year by some small unique features. As your aware that is an aftermarket clone engine. WH uses the belt guard as parting of the clutching to slack the belt so you could shift gears with out it grinding the transmission gears. The transmission gears are not synchronized so the transmission pulley must be stopped to shift gears without grinding. Since your belt guard is missing you may be able to make a stiff wire finger at the motor pulley to help guide the slack belt. You could also get a used belt guard from one of our vendors A-Z Tractor listed here in the Vendor Section. you might have to modify it some to adapt to the clone engine. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,651 #4 Posted November 1 Cool Lawn Ranger!!! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,459 #5 Posted November 1 One of the functions of the belt guard is to catch the slack in the drive belt when the clutch is depressed allowing you to shift gears. Looking at the pictures I wonder if the belt would work better being routed above the lower idler pulley. The looks of a Lawn Ranger didn't change much from 1963 to 1968 and with the extent of the modifications yours has had, who cares what year it is, it is cool. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,395 #6 Posted November 1 what are your plans for it? Just something to bomb around on? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,347 #7 Posted November 1 1 hour ago, 953 nut said: Looking at the pictures I wonder if the belt would work better being routed above the lower idler pulley. Agree with Richard. Another easy to get the belt to positively stop for gear changing is to add a belt brake tab as Wheel Horse did on the later models. 2 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STLWheelHorse 20 #8 Posted November 1 Thanks for all the helpful insight. As of now it took a couple weeks to get it running, but it drivers and shifts completely fine, which was a great shock to me, but I guess they just made things right back then. Plans for it are open, I got two acres of woods to play with, I definitely need two new tires but it looks like these Goodyear rawhides haven’t been available for like a decade. 21x11x8s are what they are, I love the wide stance as well! Most likely will continue to slowly clean it up without changing too much of the original look to it. Suggestions? 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,972 #9 Posted November 2 @STLWheelHorse! That’s a sweet LR you have there! Most of those aftermarket orange engines I’ve seen have been diesel flavor. Is this a gasser or an oil burner? It’s early and I’m sipping coffee before I go look for deers, forgive me if it’s obvious! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,972 #10 Posted November 2 As for what to do with it? It’s so cool the way it is, I’d still look for something for a belt guard/guide/clutch as mentioned, but leave it be. Enjoy it! Maybe flip those rear tires around so they’re forward 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,198 #11 Posted November 2 (edited) Awesome little Ranger! It’s a 65-68 model machine. The 62-64 models were completely different (as in the first pic). The ID tag is on the left side of the steering tower, not the area of tread plate. Mine is missing in the second pic, but you can see the mount holes all the way up under the top of the hood stand. Edited November 2 by kpinnc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STLWheelHorse 20 #12 Posted November 3 On 11/2/2024 at 5:01 AM, Pullstart said: @STLWheelHorse! That’s a sweet LR you have there! Most of those aftermarket orange engines I’ve seen have been diesel flavor. Is this a gasser or an oil burner? It’s early and I’m sipping coffee before I go look for deers, forgive me if it’s obvious! This one is a 3hp diesel, and she burns coal right in your face from those exhaust pipes 😂 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STLWheelHorse 20 #13 Posted November 3 I did notice a leak on the back left wheel. I know the transmission is back there so would that bs tranny oil? As far as I can tell, it’s coming from the axel part. Anything I need to worry about? I won’t be using it as a work horse by any means, will mainly just be ratting around on it 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STLWheelHorse 20 #14 Posted November 3 23 hours ago, kpinnc said: Awesome little Ranger! It’s a 65-68 model machine. The 62-64 models were completely different (as in the first pic). The ID tag is on the left side of the steering tower, not the area of tread plate. Mine is missing in the second pic, but you can see the mount holes all the way up under the top of the hood stand. thank you! I just found mine 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,198 #15 Posted November 3 2 minutes ago, STLWheelHorse said: thank you! I just found mine Glad to be of help! By that tag, you have a 1966 L-156. And BTW, the leaky axle seal is fairly common. They are easy to replace provided the hub comes off without issue. The transmission uses regular gear oil (any 90w or similar). That little plug on the left side of the transmission is the only way to check the oil level on that tractor. It should be right up to the top of the peep hole on level ground. 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,810 #16 Posted November 3 L 156 is a 1966 Lawn Ranger. Your trans, if original, is a #5053 and your axle seal is leaking. The seal is #SKF 9815 and can be changed out by removing the wheel and hub and dig out seal...easy if the axle bearing is OK. Jack up rear end and check for up down and side to side play in the axle...no play means axle bearing is good. kpinnc beat me to it... 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,689 #17 Posted November 3 (edited) Greentored is our resident Mudmower he built his B1 Bomber. The mudmower boys have design a special home built belt guard you should check out . Creepcrawler on Youtube I think has the belt guard build on there somrwhere. Might want to check out Mr. Studebaker he's A Cub guy but has alot of friends with Wheel Horses. My stock Wheel Horse just added the tires and wheels. Edited November 3 by Lee1977 2 1 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STLWheelHorse 20 #18 Posted November 4 8 hours ago, stevasaurus said: L 156 is a 1966 Lawn Ranger. Your trans, if original, is a #5053 and your axle seal is leaking. The seal is #SKF 9815 and can be changed out by removing the wheel and hub and dig out seal...easy if the axle bearing is OK. Jack up rear end and check for up down and side to side play in the axle...no play means axle bearing is good. kpinnc beat me to it... looks like the axle bearing is bad on the wheel so I would assume I should replace that when I do the seal, assuming it’s not a total PIA to do. Would this be the wheel bearing? https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Bearing/101480/2139828 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,198 #19 Posted November 4 3 hours ago, STLWheelHorse said: looks like the axle bearing is bad on the wheel Replacing an axle bearing typically requires splitting the case. I have seen someone drive the old bearing in far enough to add another without splitting the case, but unfortunately you can’t inspect for axle wear that way. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,793 #20 Posted November 4 @STLWheelHorseThe bearing you posted doesn't look like the axle bearing. Check the above post for the correct numbers. You can get them at your local bearing supply , on line or at one of our vendors, https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/bearings/ if you have any questions you can give Lowell there a call he's very helpful. Your 5053 transmission is the same internally as this 5085 in this video by Stevasaurus, he our Transmission guru. The 4 speed transmissions are really easy to work on, especially if you don't have to remove the shift forks, which you don't to replace a bearing and seal. Actually to replace a wheel bearing and seal you can lift out the differential and probable not even disturb the rest of the gears. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,810 #21 Posted November 4 That bearing you posted is not the right bearing. The right bearing is #KOYO or Torington B-1616 and the case gasket is # 3912. To replace the bearing on the left side of the trans...take trans off horse, drain out oil, leave the shallow side of the trans down and unbolt and pull off the left side of trans, tap out bearing from the inside (the seal will come out with the bearing), tap in new bearing from the outside and recess 1/8", tap in seal, put trans back together. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STLWheelHorse 20 #22 Posted November 16 Wanted to update everyone on where I’m at on this project. I went with Ed’s advice on the belt brake, found an old toro one that with minor adjustment, will work just fine. While looking for a belt guard, I came across another lawn ranger that had the belt guard, but no engine. Guy wants $150 for it and I’m considering it. The transmission is all good and bearings on both wheels are good. My question is…. Is there TOO much horsepower for these? I want to stick with diesel engines, my current one is 3hp, could I theoretically throw a 9hp onto the other one? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,198 #23 Posted November 16 (edited) 2 hours ago, STLWheelHorse said: My question is…. Is there TOO much horsepower for these? I want to stick with diesel engines, my current one is 3hp, could I theoretically throw a 9hp onto the other one? 9hp won’t hurt anything. Even if it is a diesel. Fitting under the hood would be the part I would be concerned with. Edited November 16 by kpinnc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,875 #24 Posted November 16 (edited) 2 hours ago, STLWheelHorse said: could I theoretically throw a 9hp onto the other one? With no problem other than the hood thing KP mentioned but with those mods already a cut hood would not be considered sacrilegious. Our good buddy @Achto did a short frame with a 9 or 10 HP Hatz diesel. A very popular tractor in these parts. Edited November 16 by WHX?? 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,657 #25 Posted November 16 Cool tractor !! Good to see another diesel fanatic. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites