Alrashid2 171 #1 Posted October 31 Hey y'all, really appreciating the wealth of knowledge you all are here! Wanted to see if anyone could help me figure out if this type of plow would fit my 1985 312-8. Photo attached from the craigslist ad. I tried to do some reading but was still confused. It sounded like I might possibly need some sort of horizontal bar in the rear - any idea if that's true and where I could get one? I also read that some models require an offset handle so it doesn't hit the right hand foot rest. Can you tell if these have that handle? Still waiting to hear back if I can get more photos of maybe some models numbers! Thanks all! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,787 #2 Posted October 31 Yes, you will need a rear axle bracket. If the Seller has that manyWH Plows I would be the has a rear axle bracket to throw in with the deal. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,329 #3 Posted October 31 50 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said: help me figure out if this type of plow would fit my 1985 312-8. You need the long frame for your 312-8. These frames all appear to be the long frame. The blades come in 42, 48, and 54" widths. I prefer the 48" blades as even when angled they clear a path wider than the rear tires. IMO, the 54" wide blades put too much side load making it difficult to steer. Yes, you do need the axle mounting bracket. I would not be concerned about the blade angle lever. They can easily be bent or a spacer added to move them out to clear the brake pedal. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #4 Posted October 31 (edited) Thanks guys for your input and advice. Here is a photo (need to clean this thing still) of my rear end, with hitch. The seller said he has a "rear axle bracket" I assume that is all I'm missing back here? Can anyone confirm if there is something else i need to buy? Edited October 31 by Alrashid2 Photo 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,393 #5 Posted October 31 You will need the rear axle bracket. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,030 #6 Posted October 31 This picture (sorry, this was before some major cleaning took place) shows the rear axle bracket installed: The rear crossbrace of the plow frame (and some other accessories) use the bottom of this to lock in the slot. The levers lock it in when pulled down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,329 #7 Posted October 31 9 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said: Thanks guys for your input and advice. Here is a photo (need to clean this thing still) of my rear end, with hitch. The seller said he has a "rear axle bracket" I assume that is all I'm missing back here? Can anyone confirm if there is something else i need to buy? Yes, the axle bracket is all you need. If you plan to use the blade for grading dirt, you may want the solid link down pressure bar. It is normally not required for snow plowing. I am concerned about the big loop in the fuel line getting caught. I would turn the valve to the left and shorten the fuel line removing the loop. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #8 Posted October 31 Thank you guys for the responses! I'm learing as I go here and appreciate all the info... @davem1111 thanks for the photo. And I thought my rig was dirty, ha!! @Ed Kennell thanks Ed for responding too. Does that Solid Link Down Pressure Bar replace the chain I see on the underside of my tractor? I assume it does what the name implies, and allows you to push down on the lever to put force down on the blade? I would want to grade with this so I'll have to do some research on a part number... thank you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,329 #9 Posted October 31 3 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said: Does that Solid Link Down Pressure Bar replace the chain Yes. If the plow seller does not have the solid link, It can easily be made by taking a measurement of the length required and drilling a couple holes in a flat steel bar. One could also be purchased from one of our vendors. https://www.a-ztractor.com/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #10 Posted October 31 Thanks @Ed Kennell will keep that in mind. And you're right, I will put it on the list about cutting that fuel line down a bit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,030 #11 Posted October 31 41 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: ... If you plan to use the blade for grading dirt, you may want the solid link down pressure bar. It is normally not required for snow plowing. What is this part? I think I may have one but wasn't sure what it was for.... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,030 #12 Posted October 31 (edited) 1 minute ago, davem1111 said: What is this part? I think I may have one but wasn't sure what it was for.... oh, nevermind - I see you answered that above. I'm wondering if that works with hydraulic lifts? They don't put any down pressure even with the solid bar, do they? Edited October 31 by davem1111 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,393 #13 Posted October 31 43 minutes ago, davem1111 said: I'm wondering if that works with hydraulic lifts? They don't put any down pressure even with the solid bar, do they? They will lift the front tires off the ground if the blades runs up on a rock. Plenty of down pressure for adjusting a grade. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,653 #14 Posted October 31 @Alrashid2 https://www.google.com/search?q=hitch+pin&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=hitch+pin&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyDAgAEEUYORixAxiABDIMCAEQIxgnGIAEGIoFMgcIAhAAGIAEMgcIAxAAGIAEMgcIBBAAGIAEMgcIBRAAGIAEMgcIBhAAGIAEMgcIBxAAGIAEMg0ICBAuGK8BGMcBGIAEMgcI those lomger style frams will fit , on the rear axel hitch point , there are 1/8 " holes in the side of lever slide area , you want to put one of these hitch pins into matching holes , push all the way , in till last large hole , that way they will not fall out , also lubricate as you go on the plow movement areas , typically neglected , they really respond tp penetrating oil , and red aerosol grease , steering quadrant area , and related lever movement connections , also like a lubrication coating on the blade face, stops rust , and increases slide off . those are fun to bring back ,set on 2 milk crates , front / rear , roller stool , build it first , verify function , then install , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #15 Posted November 6 Hey all, does anyone have a photo of a Wheel Horse with the plow frame on but plow removed? I'd be running my tractor like that 90% of the time and curious what it looks like, how far the frame sticks out up front, how much ground clearance is lost, etc... Am I safe to assume, once the plow frame is installed, it's pretty easy to remove/reinstall the plow itself? I'd like to just leave the frame and take off the plow the majority of the time but have it ready for the storm that comes here and there Thanks all! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 471 #16 Posted November 6 5 hours ago, Alrashid2 said: Hey all, does anyone have a photo of a Wheel Horse with the plow frame on but plow removed? I'd be running my tractor like that 90% of the time and curious what it looks like, how far the frame sticks out up front, how much ground clearance is lost, etc... Am I safe to assume, once the plow frame is installed, it's pretty easy to remove/reinstall the plow itself? I'd like to just leave the frame and take off the plow the majority of the time but have it ready for the storm that comes here and there Thanks all! That's really not practical. The axle bracket can stay on, but the plow and frame have to come off to put the deck on. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #17 Posted November 6 15 minutes ago, Wayne0 said: That's really not practical. The axle bracket can stay on, but the plow and frame have to come off to put the deck on. Oh I see, that's good to know... just trying to figure out what is considered normal. How long does it take to remove a plow bracket? How long to reinstall, after the axle bracket is already pre-installed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,329 #18 Posted November 6 2 hours ago, Alrashid2 said: How long does it take to remove a plow bracket? The plow frame with the blade will take you 1/2 hour to remove the first time. After that maybe 10 minutes to remove or install. The rear axle bracket does not need to be removed to install the deck. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #19 Posted November 6 Thank you sir 😊 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #20 Posted November 8 Hey guys, do any of you know how long the plow/frame combo is? Obviously it'll be 42" wide at the plow but wasn't sure of length. Preemptively getting some storage space ready! Thanks guys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 471 #21 Posted November 8 I get 70" for my long frame. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,329 #22 Posted November 8 When I store my plows, I always remove the blade by pulling the two pins. Then I lean the frame and blade upright against a wall . The frame is 67" tall and the blade is 16" wide. I find it is also much easier to install the frame with out the blade. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #23 Posted November 8 Thanks guys! I had asked in one of my threads about removing the plow from the frame and someone had mentioned it wasn't worth it ... Glad to hear it's easy to pop off. Unfortunately I have to store these outside so just figuring out how many pallets I need Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 471 #24 Posted November 9 I store mine standing up on the blade. Takes the same space as the blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,393 #25 Posted November 9 23 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: When I store my plows, I always remove the blade by pulling the two pins. Then I lean the frame and blade upright against a wall . The frame is 67" tall and the blade is 16" wide. I find it is also much easier to install the frame with out the blade. I do the same thing, I have two blades to store, that way they don't take up very much room. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
