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Alrashid2

My New-To-Me 1985 312-8 is coming along! But I still have questions...

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kpinnc

No. You can use the plow and any other implements without it. 

 
You just don’t have the infinite adjustability. For snowplowing on pavement the weight of the blade is beneficial anyway. 
Edited by kpinnc
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Alrashid2
6 hours ago, kpinnc said:

No. You can use the plow and any other implements without it. 

 
You just don’t have the infinite adjustability. For snowplowing on pavement the weight of the blade is beneficial anyway. 

That's good to know. I'm buying one off of @davem1111 and will just have to play around with it!

 

We have a paved driveway but it's old and patchy... Lots of uneven bumpy spots. I rather have the plow barely graze the driveway, kind of like a snow blower does,so we'll see what I can do!

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Handy Don
2 hours ago, Alrashid2 said:

That's good to know. I'm buying one off of @davem1111 and will just have to play around with it!

 

We have a paved driveway but it's old and patchy... Lots of uneven bumpy spots. I rather have the plow barely graze the driveway, kind of like a snow blower does,so we'll see what I can do!

Several models of plow had mounting holes on the lower outboard rear ends of the blade to which one could mount skids. These could be adjusted to keep the blade a fixed distance off the ground with a lot more accuracy than a dial-a-matic similar--same idea as snowblower skids.

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Alrashid2
11 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Several models of plow had mounting holes on the lower outboard rear ends of the blade to which one could mount skids. These could be adjusted to keep the blade a fixed distance off the ground with a lot more accuracy than a dial-a-matic similar--same idea as snowblower skids.

Ah interesting. I'll have to look on Dave's and see if his has them. Maybe I could custom drill some? Thanks for letting me know 

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davem1111
On 11/2/2024 at 8:45 AM, Alrashid2 said:

Ah interesting. I'll have to look on Dave's and see if his has them. Maybe I could custom drill some? Thanks for letting me know 

 

Doesn't look like it has any holes. If you have good metal drill bits it might not be too difficult to drill some new ones and mount some skids on it. Might need to do some cutting and/or welding unless you can find something that will just bolt on there. Maybe just some flat 3/16-1/4" steel with an appropriate bend in it would work....

 

IMG_1908.jpg.7dc561f2cd3254fce8280782b6e8ad75.jpg

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Alrashid2
1 hour ago, davem1111 said:

 

Doesn't look like it has any holes. If you have good metal drill bits it might not be too difficult to drill some new ones and mount some skids on it. Might need to do some cutting and/or welding unless you can find something that will just bolt on there. Maybe just some flat 3/16-1/4" steel with an appropriate bend in it would work....

 

IMG_1908.jpg.7dc561f2cd3254fce8280782b6e8ad75.jpg

Thanks for the pic my friend! No worries at all. I'll try her out first and see how she does!

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Alrashid2

Couple random questions for you guys!

 

1. What kind of fuel consumption is normal in these? Filled the tank to the tippy top, ran it for around 20 min, and I'm already down to 3/4 tank... At that rare shell burn through a tank in less than an hour and a half. That normal?

 

2. Drained my transaxle from the bottom bolt and let it drain for over 30 min while I was inside and working on something else. Filled with 2 quarts and found it way overfilled. I've drained back out about 3/4 quart of gear oil and she's still slightly overfilled! I decided to do this after seeing all frothy the oil was after use. Anyone seen this?

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rjg854
21 hours ago, davem1111 said:

 

IMG_1908.jpg.7dc561f2cd3254fce8280782b6e8ad75.jpg

By the looks of that wear bar, if it hasn't been flipped already, you might think about doing that before you start wearing off the plow itself.  ;)

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davem1111
1 hour ago, rjg854 said:

By the looks of that wear bar, if it hasn't been flipped already, you might think about doing that before you start wearing off the plow itself.  ;)

 

Hmmm... good idea.  I only got this plow about a year ago and have only used it a few times, so I didn't think to check that. Should look at my other one too. :eusa-think:

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Alrashid2

Since we're on the topic, where do you guys source wear bars? Is that a generic part or does it have to be Wheel Horse specific?


Dave is selling me this plow :P so planning ahead!

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Handy Don
59 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said:

Since we're on the topic, where do you guys source wear bars? Is that a generic part or does it have to be Wheel Horse specific?


Dave is selling me this plow :P so planning ahead!

They are pretty generic. Amazon and eBay for sure. I’d bet that TSC and others carry them as well. 

One variant that some folks are pleased about is using a high density plastic bar using the worn steel bar as a clamp. Some folks have used heavy rubber, as well. Both to try to avoid excessively scraping up the pavement. 

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oliver2-44
On 11/3/2024 at 12:52 PM, Alrashid2 said:

2. Drained my transaxle from the bottom bolt and let it drain for over 30 min while I was inside and working on something else. Filled with 2 quarts and found it way overfilled. I've drained back out about 3/4 quart of gear oil and she's still slightly overfilled! I decided to do this after seeing all frothy the oil was after use. Anyone seen this?

The transmission has a hump on the bottom that traps fluid on the front side.  You have to lift the front of the tractor up to get that area to drain.  But I don't think that would hold 3/4 quart.  

How did the old oil look?  If it was creamy brown or white it had some water in it. Like this.

1068655539_waterintransmissionoil.JPG.293a3647dea87ba6c62de3e3b494afa5.JPG

If it had water run the new oil a while and change it again.  If it had a bunch of "free (separated) water" you need to fluid it with diesel or kerosene, run it around on the road or on jack stands, then flush it again.  a couple of times.    

 

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Alrashid2

Thank you @oliver2-44. I did something somewhat similar. I'll admit, didn't tip the front wheels up when draining though.

 

I drained the old murky fluid - yes it had water in it - and then refilled with 1 quart of 80w90 gear oil, and 1 quart of kerosene. Drove it around the yard for 15 minutes, then drained that mixture and refilled with 2 quarts of 80w90. Was a bit overfilled, so drained some of that out - now that I've taken that and measured it in an old quart oil container, it looks like it was just 1/2 quart overfilled, not 3/4 quart. 

 

So far running smoothly!

 

Am I safe to assume that, now that I've flushed, drained, refilled, and replaced the old ripped shifter boot, the fluid shouldn't need changed anytime soon? Old manual doesn't talk about draining ,just keeping it topped off, which it is now. 

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, Alrashid2 said:

Am I safe to assume that, now that I've flushed, drained, refilled, and replaced the old ripped shifter boot, the fluid shouldn't need changed anytime soon? Old manual doesn't talk about draining ,just keeping it topped off, which it is now. 

Generally, yes. Especially if it’ll be stored in moderate humidity conditions. The top curve of the dipstick is a hollow tube so the transaxle is always able to breathe!

A look at the dipstick every year will tell you what you need to know: low level? creamy? water droplets? blackened? speckles of metal?  Yes to any and attention needed.

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Alrashid2

Right on! Makes sense to me - will check yearly! She'll be stored in a shed so at least out of the elements!

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