My New-To-Me 1985 312-8 is coming along! But I still have questions...

[Alrashid2 165]

Hey guys. I appreciated all of your help and welcoming words on my first post! Here is the original thread if anyone is interested in my questions and what I got answered and figured out. Logged all the work I have done there.

 

 

Anyway, post was getting bloated and I realized discussion was slim to none so I wanted to start fresh and hopefully get a bit of help on a few more things I'm trying to figure out.

 

1. I have 15x6.00-6 tubeless tires up front and 22x7.50-12 tubed (I believe) tires in the rear. All of the tires are pretty dry rotted but are shockingly holding air just fine! Looks like the front tire size are easy to replace in today's modern world, but couldn't find replacements for the rear, and learned from many of you that I can get 23x8.50-12 tires pretty easily. 

 

My question is, should I go Tube or Tubeless for replacement tires? What are the pros and cons of either? I'd like to stick to what will be easier to install as I'd be putting these on myself at home. What do you guys think? 

 

1.5 Speaking of tires, where can I buy quality tractor tires? Tried googling and I'm getting all sorts of sites 

 

2. How can I check if my belt needs replaced or not? And are there any straight forward instructions/videos on how to replace the belt? The machine runs just fine, no slippage, but the belt does look a bit older in spots. Some frayed edges and such. 

 

3. How essential are the shims on the front wheels? Realized mine only had 1 on one side and 0 on the other. Wheel has some play but wasn't sure if this was just a fine-tuning thing or if it was bad to drive it with that play. Figured I could just go to Ace Hardware and buy varying washers to work as shims?

 

4. Are the headlight bezels essential? Mine didn't come with any! Was going to buy some online but they were pricy. Wasn't sure if they were just a cosmetic thing. 

 

5. What do I need to look for in a replacement battery? Battery currently works fine but having trouble finding model info and/or specs to make sure I check for the inevitable replacement. 

Thanks brothers! Love being here!

 

P.S. Thought I'd outline what I've done so far or will be doing soon, thanks to you all:

• Oil change
• spark plug change
• air filter replacement
• fuel filter replacement
• Transaxle gear oil flush and change
• Greased all 6 zerk fittings
• Replaced the shifter boot
• Replaced the gas cap with a Kelch fuel gauge version
• Adjusted the toe of the front wheels
• Replaced the broken volt meter gauge with an aftermarket replacement
• Cleaned up various rusted hardware and painted
• Will be replacing the seat as soon as it gets delivered!

 

Edited October 29 by Alrashid2

[oliver2-44 9,742]

54 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said:

Hey guys. I appreciated all of your help and welcoming words on my first post! Here is the original thread if anyone is interested in my questions and what I got answered and figured out. Logged all the work I have done there.

 

 

Anyway, post was getting bloated and I realized discussion was slim to none so I wanted to start fresh and hopefully get a bit of help on a few more things I'm trying to figure out.

 

1. I have 15x6.00-6 tubeless tires up front and 22x7.50-12 tubed (I believe) tires in the rear. All of the tires are pretty dry rotted but are shockingly holding air just fine! Looks like the front tire size are easy to replace in today's modern world, but couldn't find replacements for the rear, and learned from many of you that I can get 23x8.50-12 tires pretty easily. 

 

My question is, should I go Tube or Tubeless for replacement tires? What are the pros and cons of either? I'd like to stick to what will be easier to install as I'd be putting these on myself at home. What do you guys think? 

If you think you might want to put fluid in the tires for weight some day, then install tubes now.  Otherwise, tubeless is fine.  

1.5 Speaking of tires, where can I buy quality tractor tires? Tried googling and I'm getting all sorts of sites 

 

2. How can I check if my belt needs replaced or not? And are there any straight forward instructions/videos on how to replace the belt? The machine runs just fine, no slippage, but the belt does look a bit older in spots. Some frayed edges and such. 

Take the belt and bend it backwards. does the inside surface stay fairly smooth or show cracks, chips etc.

3. How essential are the shims on the front wheels? Realized mine only had 1 on one side and 0 on the other. Wheel has some play but wasn't sure if this was just a fine-tuning thing or if it was bad to drive it with that play. Figured I could just go to Ace Hardware and buy varying washers to work as shims?

Your OK driving it some, but the shims are a good general adjustment. Their probable good for the bearings to help reduce side loading or banging back and forth also.  When you pull the front wheels you might consider installing sealed front bearings.  Saves a greasy mess with the hub pumped full of grease.  

4. Are the headlight bezels essential? Mine didn't come with any! Was going to buy some online but they were pricy. Wasn't sure if they were just a cosmetic thing. 

Their not essential.  One of the guys here "Wheel Horse 3D" prints and sells them.

5. What do I need to look for in a replacement battery? Battery currently works fine but having trouble finding model info and/or specs to make sure I check for the inevitable replacement. 

Their are 3 companies that manufacture most of the batteries in the world to the spec of the place they are sold at.  Walmart, NAPA, Autozone, O'Reillys, etc  seem to change suppliers every few  years as they renew their supply contract.  At the time your ready for a new one, see if you can tell which ones are made by "East Penn" which is the only stateside manufacturer.  

To extend the life of your current battery, keep it on a "Battery Tender"  If your not using the tractor for a while (I'm going to throw out 6 weeks, no magic time period).  Heat (and to a smaller extent cold) is one your batteries biggest killer.  I worked with large industrial battery banks at power plants and the vendors said 77 deg F is the ideal temp.    I realize you not going to keep you garage or shed 77F,  but store it in the shade vs leaving it outdoors.  If your not using the tractor all summer, or all winter you might consider removing it and storing it in the garage or basement.

 

Just my thoughts, your mileage may vary

 

Thanks brothers! Love being here!

 

P.S. Thought I'd outline what I've done so far or will be doing soon, thanks to you all:

• Oil change
• spark plug change
• air filter replacement
• fuel filter replacement
• Transaxle gear oil flush and change
• Greased all 6 zerk fittings
• Replaced the shifter boot
• Replaced the gas cap with a Kelch fuel gauge version
• Adjusted the toe of the front wheels
• Replaced the broken volt meter gauge with an aftermarket replacement
• Cleaned up various rusted hardware and painted
• Will be replacing the seat as soon as it gets delivered!

 

 

Edited October 29 by oliver2-44

[kpinnc 12,011]

@oliver2-44 got you covered pretty well. All I would add is your #3 question: Tractor supply and even Harbor freight carry “machine spacers” in 3/4 ID. Depending on the amount of play you have in your wheels, these are a good thing to have for taking up slop in the wheels. 
 

Unlike 3/4 washers, these are typically thinner and have a smaller outside diameter.  

Edited October 29 by kpinnc

[953 nut 55,198]

4 hours ago, Alrashid2 said:

 

2. How can I check if my belt needs replaced or not?

@oliver2-44 has you covered on most of the questions, I would add that a drive belt that LOOKS good can need replacement. Connect a chain low on the rear of the tractor, chain the tractor to a tree, slowly pull forward in third gear high range until the slack comes out of the chain then stop, With the throttle at less than half let the clutch out slowly, if the engine stalls or the wheels spin you have a good belt, if the belt slips you need a new one.

[Alrashid2 165]

6 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

1. I have 15x6.00-6 tubeless tires up front and 22x7.50-12 tubed (I believe) tires in the rear. All of the tires are pretty dry rotted but are shockingly holding air just fine! Looks like the front tire size are easy to replace in today's modern world, but couldn't find replacements for the rear, and learned from many of you that I can get 23x8.50-12 tires pretty easily. 

 

My question is, should I go Tube or Tubeless for replacement tires? What are the pros and cons of either? I'd like to stick to what will be easier to install as I'd be putting these on myself at home. What do you guys think? 

If you think you might want to put fluid in the tires for weight some day, then install tubes now.  Otherwise, tubeless is fine.  Don't foresee putting water in, so will look into tubeless! Any suggestions on where to buy tires? 

1.5 Speaking of tires, where can I buy quality tractor tires? Tried googling and I'm getting all sorts of sites 

 

2. How can I check if my belt needs replaced or not? And are there any straight forward instructions/videos on how to replace the belt? The machine runs just fine, no slippage, but the belt does look a bit older in spots. Some frayed edges and such. 

Take the belt and bend it backwards. does the inside surface stay fairly smooth or show cracks, chips etc. Oh ya, I remember that trick growing up checking car belts. No cracks!

3. How essential are the shims on the front wheels? Realized mine only had 1 on one side and 0 on the other. Wheel has some play but wasn't sure if this was just a fine-tuning thing or if it was bad to drive it with that play. Figured I could just go to Ace Hardware and buy varying washers to work as shims?

Your OK driving it some, but the shims are a good general adjustment. Their probable good for the bearings to help reduce side loading or banging back and forth also.  When you pull the front wheels you might consider installing sealed front bearings.  Saves a greasy mess with the hub pumped full of grease.  That makes sense. I actually came to realize that my front bearings do have sealed bearings installed from the PO! I tried to grease via the zerk fittings: none came out on one, and the other barely seeped out. That's when I realized they were the sealed types. 

4. Are the headlight bezels essential? Mine didn't come with any! Was going to buy some online but they were pricy. Wasn't sure if they were just a cosmetic thing. 

Their not essential.  One of the guys here "Wheel Horse 3D" prints and sells them. Will look him up!

5. What do I need to look for in a replacement battery? Battery currently works fine but having trouble finding model info and/or specs to make sure I check for the inevitable replacement. 

Their are 3 companies that manufacture most of the batteries in the world to the spec of the place they are sold at.  Walmart, NAPA, Autozone, O'Reillys, etc  seem to change suppliers every few  years as they renew their supply contract.  At the time your ready for a new one, see if you can tell which ones are made by "East Penn" which is the only stateside manufacturer.  

To extend the life of your current battery, keep it on a "Battery Tender"  If your not using the tractor for a while (I'm going to throw out 6 weeks, no magic time period).  Heat (and to a smaller extent cold) is one your batteries biggest killer.  I worked with large industrial battery banks at power plants and the vendors said 77 deg F is the ideal temp.    I realize you not going to keep you garage or shed 77F,  but store it in the shade vs leaving it outdoors.  If your not using the tractor all summer, or all winter you might consider removing it and storing it in the garage or basement. Thank you for this advice sir

 

[Alrashid2 165]

4 hours ago, kpinnc said:

@oliver2-44 got you covered pretty well. All I would add is your #3 question: Tractor supply and even Harbor freight carry “machine spacers” in 3/4 ID. Depending on the amount of play you have in your wheels, these are a good thing to have for taking up slop in the wheels. 
 

Unlike 3/4 washers, these are typically thinner and have a smaller outside diameter.  

Thanks man, I see that now! I wonder if they have these at Ace hardware too? That is what is closest to me. I'll see what I can find!

[Alrashid2 165]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

@oliver2-44 has you covered on most of the questions, I would add that a drive belt that LOOKS good can need replacement. Connect a chain low on the rear of the tractor, chain the tractor to a tree, slowly pull forward in third gear high range until the slack comes out of the chain then stop, With the throttle at less than half let the clutch out slowly, if the engine stalls or the wheels spin you have a good belt, if the belt slips you need a new one.

Oh wow never heard of this trick before. When I get some time here I will definitely try this and let you all know!

[oliver2-44 9,742]

1. Yes most Ace have them in those drawers with All the misc goodies. You will find lots of tractor “standard” items in those drawers 
2. There is a thread on here about “Tires”. Maybe someone can point you to it. I’m on my phone and don’t search the best on it
3. Do you anticipate pushing snow with this tractor. Filling the tires with Rimguard or windshield washer fluid is excellent traction weight. 

[953 nut 55,198]

10 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

There is a thread on here about “Tires”. Maybe someone can point you to it.

Got ya covered.            In fact if you search "Tires" on here you get about 25,400 returns.           

 

[Alrashid2 165]

Oh boy, I've got some reading ahead of me haha... thank you!

[Alrashid2 165]

Hey guys, can I ask a stupid question that I'm not seeing clearly addressed in the tire forum...

 

I'm noticing as I shop around, when looking at rear tires, there doesn't seem to be any matching front tires in a size as small as 15x6.00-6.

 

Is it normal for the front tire tread to not match the rear? 

[cleat 5,934]

A lot of tractors come with straight rib treads on the fronts and a variety of different traction treads on the rear.

 

So far I have been able to at least somewhat match my front and rear tread patterns on my tractors.

 

Likely makes no difference as far as operation goes but does look better with either straight or matching tread pattern on the front.

 

[Alrashid2 165]

3 minutes ago, cleat said:

A lot of tractors come with straight rib treads on the fronts and a variety of different traction treads on the rear.

 

So far I have been able to at least somewhat match my front and rear tread patterns on my tractors.

 

Likely makes no difference as far as operation goes but does look better with either straight or matching tread pattern on the front.

 

Fair enough! I'll see if I can find something that at least looks close. Looks like the front tires are easy and cheap to find: seeing a ton on Amazon for under $50 that have similar tread to some of the rear styles I'm seeing. Thanks for the reply.

 

I did some googling and reading here, and am still a bit confused on the best tire tread style I should get. I was tempted to get the classic looking Agriculture style rear tires that seem popular here, but not sure if they're the best choice for me.

 

As of now, my tractor will almost exclusively be pulling a firewood cart uphill in my backyard. It will be mostly woods but also in my grass lawn. I will be turning around in the grass. Sometimes frozen solid and hard as a rock, sometimes muddy as can be, sometimes covered in snow! I currently have no plans to plow the asphalt driveway with this tractor but that could change in the future.

 

My guess is an all around All Terrain tread is the best compromise here but I'd be curious of your opinions too. 

Edited October 30 by Alrashid2

[953 nut 55,198]

Titan Ties come in about any size you could ask for and are a great looking tire, I have then on my 310-8. They are not the least expensive tire but I like them.

https://www.titan-intl.com/Tires/MULTI-TRAC-CS

 

[Alrashid2 165]

Hey all, thanks for the tire info! Can I change the subject a bit?

 

I won't be mowing with this tractor and don't have much storage space here, so want to sell my mower deck. Have a person interested locally. I would like to at some point in the future buy other attachments though if I find them: a plow, possibly a cultivator/tiller, and maybe even a bucket attachment. 

 

Are there any components from the mower system that I should keep? I rather not sell a component that may be hard to find later on. When I pulled the mower deck, I had something (I believe it was called a mule?) that attached to the front and had 2 pulleys on it, with 2 belts. The piece was angled. 

Is that piece solely for the mower deck, or would that be needed for other attachments too? photo attached

Edited October 30 by Alrashid2
Adding photo

[Alrashid2 165]

Back with another Tire Question  

 

After doing some shopping and calling my local shop, I'm going back to thinking maybe I should just throw tubes into my current tires. The tires are pretty cracked, but they have a ton of tread left... Local shop quoted me $140 to remove tires, put tubes in, remount  versus the approximately $400 for new tubeless tires and mount. 

 

If I go tubeless on my current tires though, I've got a few questions...

 

1. My front tires say "Tubeless" on them. Can you put tubes into tubeless tires?

2. Rear tires, I'm unsure if they currently have tubes or not (nothing written on sidewall). How can I figure this out, other than deflating and removing to check inside? 

[kpinnc 12,011]

You can use tubes in any tubeless tires for these tractors. Most would recommend tubes as well. 
 

Tires manufactured today just do not have the longevity of the ones made even 20 years ago. Weather cracking can appear in just a couple years, and this absolutely introduces slow leaks. Adding a tube greatly reduces the chances of weather checking being the cause of a flat. 

[Alrashid2 165]

Hey guys, do you know is the Manual Lift Lever on the lefthand side supposed to have only 2 locked positions? Seems like mine only locks all the way lowered, or all the way lifted. Wasn't sure if that was normal. Buying a plow so wanted to see how to fine tune it if there were only 2 positions!

 

Also, installed the new seat from Northern Tool!

Edited October 31 by Alrashid2

[Lee1977 6,657]

The 1985 312-8 came with those smaller tires and narrow rims. I'm not sure the actual width, I think they are 4" wide. You might want to check around you area for some 7" wide rims..  23 x 850 x 12  tires don't look right on those narrow rims.. My 85 312-8 had 8.50's on it, had set in a shed with the roof blown off and the rims were rusted badly. I had 7" wide rims with new 8.50 tire that came with a Raider so I used them. This is the only picture I have with the narrow rims and the 8.50 tires. 

 

 

I saw some where in this tread about the charging system. The 1985 312-8 is the only 312 with a 3 amp charging system and AC lights. Two wires, one to the light switch and one back to the PTO switchand back  key switch.battery post also to the hot side of the solenoid switch before the PTO switch. According to the manual all the 1985 300's where like this.

 

That is unless some PO change the charging system.

 

 

[Alrashid2 165]

On 10/29/2024 at 5:14 PM, kpinnc said:

@oliver2-44 got you covered pretty well. All I would add is your #3 question: Tractor supply and even Harbor freight carry “machine spacers” in 3/4 ID. Depending on the amount of play you have in your wheels, these are a good thing to have for taking up slop in the wheels. 
 

Unlike 3/4 washers, these are typically thinner and have a smaller outside diameter.  

@oliver2-44@kpinnc thanks guys, you saved me today. Found machine washers at Ace and they were perfect: essentially thinner versions of washers. They worked perfectly and no play on the front wheels now!

[kpinnc 12,011]

5 hours ago, Alrashid2 said:

Hey guys, do you know is the Manual Lift Lever on the lefthand side supposed to have only 2 locked positions?

Later machines came with “dial-a-height” setups to allow adjustability in how far down a given implement would lower. Heck, so did a lot of older models. 
 

Point being, if you buy the parts, they bolt right into your 312. You’ll need a new cover for the center tunnel, but I’d bet the vendors here can fix you right up. 
 

 

[Alrashid2 165]

Ah so that's what that is.

 

Do I require those mods to plow? Or can I plow with the current setup, without the dial o matic?

[oliver2-44 9,742]

On 10/30/2024 at 2:09 PM, Alrashid2 said:

Back with another Tire Question  

 

After doing some shopping and calling my local shop, I'm going back to thinking maybe I should just throw tubes into my current tires. The tires are pretty cracked, but they have a ton of tread left... Local shop quoted me $140 to remove tires, put tubes in, remount  versus the approximately $400 for new tubeless tires and mount. 

 

If I go tubeless on my current tires though, I've got a few questions...

 

1. My front tires say "Tubeless" on them. Can you put tubes into tubeless tires?

2. Rear tires, I'm unsure if they currently have tubes or not (nothing written on sidewall). How can I figure this out, other than deflating and removing to check inside? 

You can definitely tube “Tubeless Tires”. I run several that way

 

Partly Deflate tires. If tubeless the valve stem will stay firm held in place by a grove. If valve stem moves up and down they have tubes. You may need to hold valve stem with a small pliers while you reinflate if they have a tube. 

[Lee1977 6,657]

You need a notch in both the shifter plate and the dash plate for a dial-a height on the 300 series. I ground them in mine when I put it 

Edited November 1 by Lee1977

[Alrashid2 165]

Interesting... thanks for the info guys. 

 

Do I need the Dial a Matic feature in order to use a plow? My current 312-8 doesnt have one and it looks like the lift adjustment is either fully up or fully down. I'm curious if that works with a plow or not? Unless the plow has some adjustment on it to fine tune so I'm not scraping?

 

I'd prefer to not spend anymore on this beast for a bit... if I can operate a plow without it I'm OK with just running that, but not sure what to expect.