Fuel Pump Options for K341 on my C-160?

[GAJoe 841]

My C-160 had one of the plastic fuel pumps when I bought it. I found it leaking gasoline badly yesterday so time to replace it.

I found lots of cheap replacements with "lifetime warranty" and a few said to be Kohler but the price range it $50 to $200. 

Anyone have a source for an origonal metal "six screw" that can be rebuilt? PM me if so.

 

Several have told me to "Go electric!" with these to choose from:

Electric Pump options:

• Facet 60245 or 60304.
• Mr. Gasket 42s electric pump.
• Carter P4070.

How about you guys giving your opinion ?

As for the electric option, show your electric pump install (pictures): Where it's mounted and why? And how you wired it? I like the looks of the Carter, but is it reliable?

How reliable have they turned out to be?

Did you remove the old pump and blank off or just dissconnect fuel lines and leave it?

How did you come up with the blank off cover?

 

Thanks for sharing!

Edited October 29 by GAJoe

[Racinbob 11,034]

I really like going electric especially on the under the seat tractors. Any of the ones you listed are fine. I mounted a Mr. Gasket 42s like this.

 

 

It simply made for a clean installation. There was a wire back there already that was hot with the switch on. It was for the seat switch or reverse backup key switch, neither of which are operational anymore. 

I put the same pump on the 314H but located it elsewhere since the tranny filter was in the way. Two tractors have the cheapy 2 fer < $20 pumps and they are doing fine as well. I just didn't trust them on the more critical workers. The 2005 has a Command engine and I just fed into the fuel pump. The 314, 854 and 76 are fed right into the carb. You can find blank off plates online or simple make them using a gasket as a pattern. 

[Blasterdad 2,688]

I put electric pumps on all my 's when the stock pumps go bad, this one is on my C-120. The locations differ between different models, but this location has worked great for me with the gas tank under the hood like yours. As far as your old pump goes you can just leave it on, but I just make my own block off plates by tracing a gasket on a piece of steel & drill two holes, pretty easy to do. This tractor starts INSTANTLY now, no choke, throttle at idle, sitting for a month.  I usually wire mine off the Accessory circuit WITH a fuse. 

 

[Racinbob 11,034]

I would suggest using a circuit that stays hot with the switch in the 'start' position. The accessory terminal drops out in 'start' so it would momentarily stop pumping as you're cranking the engine. But obviously it gets enough fuel to the carb to get past that and start pumping again when the switch is returned to the 'run' position. 

[953 nut 55,022]

On engines with a battery ignition system like yours I install a second wire from the "I" (ignition) terminal on the ignition switch with a fuse to operate the fuel pump. Mine are located in the tunnel where the shift levers/motion controller are located. This keeps them below the outlet of the fuel tank and protected from being hit or snagged by anything.

[squonk 41,016]

 

 

 

[Bill D 1,901]

I've gone this route with great success.  Made a mounting plate for a vacuum pulse pump.  If you do this spend the money for a genuine Kawasaki or Briggs pump.  Made in Japan .  Much better quality than the Chinese knock offs.

Edited November 1 by Bill D

[Lee1977 6,633]

The electric pumps I have installed I run the hot wire to the key switch to get power.

The ground wire ir run to a toggle switch then ground the other side of the toggle switch.

My Raider starts better if I turn the switch on let it pump 8 or 10 time then tune the pump off be fore stating.

More then a few times I have forgot to turn it back on, but it lets me know.

[peter lena 8,579]

@GAJoe https://www.amazon.com/CarBole-Universal-2-3-5P-S-I-Operating-Self-Priming/dp/B01IR6BNKY/ref=asc_df_B01IR6BNKY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693432104363&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2375096261209161400&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027028&hvtargid=pla-728856725506&psc=1&mcid=5a7c8b02cfb936bfbd67953da84b1b41  have a couple of these in use , hooked into run on switch , very quiet , solid  operation / function , no issues , use the low pressure model , also added a single LED green bulb to dash , to verify operation , not necessary  but did it anyway , very solid  , pete    

[GAJoe 841]

Thanks for all the replies guys! But it turns out that I didn't have to go with an electric fuel pump. Your time wasn't wasted as now we have what I couldn't find for others and possibly me again.

I should have looked closer at my fuel leak. I thought that the pump had cracked or something causing the leak. When I cleaned things off and removed the old fuel pump to blank off the hole I didn't find a crack in it. As dirty and crowded as things were I didn't identify exactly where the leak was when I saw the fuel pouring down the front of the engine. My first responce was to shut the enging down before I had a roasting Wheel Horse. I took the pump apart and cleaned the items up. I saw that the diaphram was in good shape and no cracks in the plastic. I put it back together and snugged the screws down good on the diaphram. I connected hose to the fittings and checked for air leaks, found none. I remounted it, piped it back up, backed it out of the shed, got a fire extinguisher, and cranked it up. It ran fine! No leaks!

Now after watching a you tube on installing a new mechanical fuel pump I have one question. Should I take it back off and put some oil on the moving parts?

[953 nut 55,022]

@peter lena, sounds like Joe is talking to you.

[GAJoe 841]

7 hours ago, 953 nut said:

@peter lena, sounds like Joe is talking to you.

Not nessesarily Peter. I was asking for opioions if I need to remove the old plastic fuel pump and put some oil on the moving parts as the guy that made a YouTube video installing a replacement with the cheaper versions that sometimes fail within minutes or days. He said that putting the oil on would make sure that it was lubricated until it got lubricated by the engine running. I didnt have a new o-ring so I used what was still on the pump with a thin layer of Permatex Ultra Black. I'd rather not remove it unless warned that I should put the oil in the pump mannually. I'm guessing that oil that lubricates the cam shaft lobes will get to where it is needed in the pump. I'm guessing that the groove on the fuel pump leaver that contacts the came lobe is to carry oil into the pump "workings". I figured that some of you guys/gals have a working knowledge of all that process. Let me know what you think.

[953 nut 55,022]

I have never given any thought to pre-oiling a fuel pump, the second the engine starts oil is being slung around everywhere. Some YouTube videos have information of questionable value just like some answers posted on Red Square.      

[Handy Don 12,125]

[GAJoe 841]

3 hours ago, 953 nut said:

I have never given any thought to pre-oiling a fuel pump, the second the engine starts oil is being slung around everywhere. Some YouTube videos have information of questionable value just like some answers posted on Red Square.      

That's what I was thinking but don't have the experience with the pumps to know for sure.

Thanks for the reply.