Another "Had to" Drag it Home, C101

[oliver2-44 10,264]

The steering wheel turned out quite well for a worker. 

After blasting and cleaning the pitting on the PTO

I

I filled the pits with the 1000 deg F JBWeld Product. 

I bead blasted the head. Then I sanded it flat using a piece of glass and 220, 320, 600 wet or dry sand paper. 

Edited February 6 by oliver2-44

[oliver2-44 10,264]

25 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

Where did you get that flywheel puller?

That’s from Harbor Freight. I’ll get a picture of the set for you tomorrow. 

[Easton Rich 455]

Thanks

[Retired Wrencher 5,623]

On 2/2/2025 at 10:28 AM, JCM said:

Thanks for the mention. You don't seem like the type of person that sits idle too long. and I like that. Your a good man.  @oliver2-44  Keep on trucking !!

Ditto.

[Retired Wrencher 5,623]

6 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

The steering wheel turned out quite well for a worker. 

After blasting and cleaning the pitting on the PTO

I

I filled the pits with the 1000 deg F JBWeld Product. 

I bead blasted the head. Then I sanded it flat using a piece of glass and 220, 320, 600 wet or dry sand paper. 

@oliver2-44 The best thing I found for doing heads is a good 2x2 or I use a 4x4 piece of flat steal plate and 320 grit. You’re doing a great job so far. Enjoy the project and the ride when done..

[oliver2-44 10,264]

On 2/5/2025 at 9:35 PM, Easton Rich said:

Where did you get that flywheel puller?

This is the harbor Freight Puller set.

 

[oliver2-44 10,264]

Before I started disassembling parts of the engine I did a Leak Down Test. I had 40psi on the high side and got 15psi on the low side. Major leakage on the Intake Valve side. I couldn’t detect any leakage on the exhaust valve or the crankcase/piston rings.  I don’t think those got a good test with so much leakage on the Intake valve. I double checked that I was at top of the stroke and both valves closed. I also rechecked my valve clearance to make sure the intake wasn’t being held open.

So I pulled both valves. They don’t have any slop in the valve guides. I measured the stems and they are like new. Not much carbon on them, but I buffed them clean on my wire wheel. The valves and seats don’t show any pitting. I used some fine lapping compound and it looks like they did a bad valve job when they bored it 0.030 over 10 years ago. 

 

The exhaust is only making contact on a knife edge on the outer diameter. 

 

The Intake Valve measures a very wide 0.110 lapped seating area width instead of the 0.045 max width spec. 
 

Calling all Overhaul Guru’s. 
@Achto @buckrancher @lynnmor @pfrederi @WHX?? @Ed Kennell

@squonk Othets?
 

So why is the Intake Valve leaking so much?  Is it because the seat is so wide which spreads the spring tension over the to wide an area to hold it tightly closed. 

With the large amount of leakage on the Intake valve any other things I should look at?

Did they maybe get the angle wrong on the seats?  I’m thinking they replaced the valves since the stems measure so good. So they would not have needed to grind the valves. 
 

Any thoughts comments on the knife edge seal on the Exhaust valve. 

 
Any comments on having a shop retiring the valves and seats?  

The exhaust seems to sit low so Is there enough metal left on the seat to regrind?

 

 

 

Edited February 26 by oliver2-44

[Achto 28,593]

9 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

Any comments on having a shop retiring the valves and seats?  

The exhaust seems to sit low so Is the enough metal left on the seat to regrind?

 

This is where a Neway valve seat cutter comes into play. The dies allow you to do a 3 angle valve job which will allow you to get your mating surface back where it belongs. I have a set for doing Harley valve seats (left over from wrenching on Harley's was my income) but I have not purchased the dies for Kohler engines yet. I save tractors sells a set, spendy but you might be able to find it cheaper else where. Should also be able to find a local shop that will cut them for less than the price of the kit.

 

https://isavetractors.com/neway-valve-seat-cutting-kit-deluxe-3-angle/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=x&utm_campaign=21521624119&utm_content=&utm_term=&ref=smart&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA8fW9BhC8ARIsACwHqYrs44c0_5yZQwtn-hBjzkcCwMpZIO_LMsA2H-xFGvdEaZxqdq76g7saArjnEALw_wcB 

 

 

I have not had a Kohler that has needed more than a good lapping. When I built the engine for my Pulling tractor I had a 12 angle valve job done. Super sealing, but still not sure if the results was worth the $. 

[ebinmaine 70,359]

22 minutes ago, Achto said:

12 angle valve job

 

I've read here n there that's a good way to make a flathead breathe better.  

 

 

 

[squonk 42,335]

I have tried pressuring the intake and exhaust ports and using soap to see the leakage only to find  out the air was overwhelming the springs and slightly opening the valves giving the impression they were not sealing.

[WHX?? 50,528]

Don't know if this would in your case Ollie. It worked on a techy vertical 

Superglued different grits sand paper to the valve & used the lapping tool for a drill. Saw it done on you tube Didn't work too bad & wasn't perfect but good  enough for a techy on a RE-67 putt around cruzer . Didn't want to get the $$ seat cutter for a one time use. Yet to have a Kohler I couldn't straiten out with regular lapping. 

I used a new valve and I would replace the exhaust one if that were my motor. 

Be sure to check the valve lash. 

Edited February 26 by WHX??

[WHX?? 50,528]

1 hour ago, Achto said:

I have a set for doing Harley valve

Can a guy get the cutters fairly reasonable for it for a Kohler Dan? 

[Achto 28,593]

6 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Can a guy get the cutters fairly reasonable for it for a Kohler Dan? 

 

Never priced them out. Handles & what not are prolly cheap, the carbide cutters/dies are where the $ is.

[WHX?? 50,528]

1 minute ago, Achto said:

carbide cutters/dies are where the $ is.

 Seats for the Clinton couldn't hurt.