Another "Had to" Drag it Home, C101

[oliver2-44 10,035]

I said I wasn't buying another one unless it was really old, or was a WH with an Eaton Hydro.

Buuuuuttttt

This popped up on Marketplace about 40 miles away. Closes one I 've found to home. 

Seller said it came with the property when he bought the place in 1994. He mowed 2 acres with it until about 2 years ago when he replaced it with a zero turn mower.  

He said the previous owner had brought it down when he moved to Texas, from New Jersey.

I told my wife I was going to call and look at a " Parts Tractor" on my way back home from the farm, since it was on my way.  

When I got home she said " I though you were getting a "Parts Tractor"  

I said I'll see if it runs or not.  I really do need a C Series Parts Tractor, even if it is a gear drive.

I was sold at his $100 listing price. But I pulled the transmission dipstick, Seller saw it was a milky and said how about $80.  I Loaded it up.

Drained the transmission when I got home and thankfully it just had milky oil and no free water on the bottom. 

So I'm hoping a diesel flush or 2 will clean it up, also needs some seals.  

PO said engine was re-ringed about 10 years ago. 

Not currently running, but spins oven when jumped. 

I was really hoping the deck looked as good as it does in this picture.

Several years ago the PO did a great job of fiberglass repairing a rusted out deck. 

It held for him, but its all coming loosed with new rust.  Deck is shot. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a Special Attachment the PO added, ya'lll have guess what it's for!

 

 

 

Edited October 26, 2024 by oliver2-44

[953 nut 56,548]

1 hour ago, oliver2-44 said:

said I wasn't buying another one

                       

[Treepep 598]

is the spoon simply to bind the wire?

[Pullstart 63,357]

[Blasterdad 2,774]

10 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

81-10K801 1978 C Series Garden Tractor C-101 8-Speed Kohler K241AS-46766D 10 Wheel Horse 103916

The "spoon" is actually a very rare dealer option, remote start solenoid diagnostic tool, P/N #65-1306.The tool holder is supposed to be mounted to the lift lever though...

     

 

 

[ebinmaine 69,409]

Interesting trailer hitch too.  

[WHX?? 49,665]

Nice score Ollie. 

Yes when they come up for that price in your neck of the woods it's a no brainer. 

Patina to die for and way too complete for a parts machine. 

[oliver2-44 10,035]

3 hours ago, Blasterdad said:

The "spoon" is actually a very rare dealer option, remote start solenoid diagnostic tool, P/N #65-1306.The tool holder is supposed to be mounted to the lift lever though...

     

You sort of "Nailed it" 

The solenoid wouldn't work "sometimes" so he jumped across the 2 large lugs with the spoon to start it

[953 nut 56,548]

On 10/26/2024 at 11:06 AM, oliver2-44 said:

jumped across the 2 large lugs with the spoon to start it

I've heard of spoon feeding a baby but now we need to spoon feed a  too.        what is this world coming to?

[Handy Don 12,956]

On 10/26/2024 at 11:06 AM, oliver2-44 said:

The solenoid wouldn't work "sometimes" so he jumped across the 2 large lugs with the spoon to start it

My sister used a sacrificial screwdriver the same way to start her old Chevy Vega. The key never worked but the car always started!

[CCW 1,311]

Had a Toyota Corolla in college that I had to swap in a steering column.  Did not have the key so i removed the outer key slot and a stubby screwdriver would turn the inner ignition slot.  Always knew there was a use for stubby drivers.

[oliver2-44 10,035]

I dropped my wife at the airport yesterday and rolled the C101 into her spot in the garage. I’ve got 6 day to work on it and a small Honey-do list. I had previously jumped the solenoid and coil to prove it would run for a few minutes.  Smoked on startup but seemed there was hope.

 

So on to a large maintenance/neglect list.

 

The PTO pulley was rusted tight to the clutch disc. Got it off and need to clean up the pro face to see how bad the pitting is

Pulled the head to decarbon, measure bore and Ck if valves need to be lapped. The carbon pattern on the top of the piston  shows theirs some blow by in the clean oily area. But maybe something to live with.

The PO sad the engine was bored 0.10 over about -0 years ago and had now sat unused after he bought a zero turn to mow faster. The cylinder bore does still show some hone marks. I’ll measure bore to see what it really is. 

 

I put some penetrating fluid around the intake valve and it held it for 4 hours last night this morning about half had seep through. So not bad for a quasi valve Ck.

Put the rear on jack stands and pulled rear wheels. Replacing the jury rigged clutch spring is on the list. 

The brake pad is loose and needs regaled or replaced

Thankfully the brake hub came of nicely for cleaning and to replace the leaking seal behind it. 

While I was under it I inspected the transmission mounting plate and no sign of cracks. 

 

Crud build behind the Input Pulley tells me it also needs a new seal.  Stated soaking the Allen set screw for removal. 

 

The right hub was loose and seal leaking. It slid off easily and thankfully the keyway in the hub and axle are ok.  Ran a tap through both hubs bolt holes to clean them up.  The left hub is tight and the seal doesn’t appear to be leaking. I’ll just check the torque on its set bolt and leave that seal for another day. 

Thankfully I have all the parts in hand except for a new starter solenoid that should be here today.   That’s most of the disassembly, so on to some clean up work. 

Edited February 1 by oliver2-44

[artfull dodger 440]

With it sitting for awhile, she may need to go out and cut some tall grass to seat the rings back up and clear up the smoke.  Letting these sit is just as bad as using them and working them hard.   

[ebinmaine 69,409]

Looks like it's getting the care it should. 

 

[c-series don 9,218]

Nice to see another 78-79 C-Series being saved!👍🏻 Looks like you’re definitely on the right track! Please keep us updated. 

[oliver2-44 10,035]

Thursday I got some honey-do done, change the oil and rotated tires on her car and my truck. Put some pre emergent on the yard, planted a bundle of 50 onion plant in the garden. 
Back to the C101. Blasted the brake band and after soaking the brake lining in the ultrasonic cleaner then sanded the back a little to clean off old glue. 

Wrapped the brake drum in plastic wrap and clamped lining and band around drum. Glued the lining back in with Goop. 

The rust pitting on the PTO is bad about a 1/2” in around the face. Since it junk, I’m going to try a long shot to save it. I plan to blast a good anchor profile in the pitted areas and fill them with some Extreme Heat JB Weld. I have a used clutch disc I’ll put on   So if it fails I won’t waste a new one. 

Removed the front PTO snap ring and tapped out the front bearing. Removed the seal and will regrease it with some Red and tacky grease. 

The carb and fuel pump are soaking and will get run through the ultrasonic cleaner a few times. Pulled the breather to clean it and check the valve tapped clearance. 

Y’all remember the steering wheel wired together in and earlier picture. I saved the cracked steering wheel on my C81 a few years ago by JB welding the hub back in the cracked wheel.  This one is cracked worse, but I’ll give it a try. Heated the rusted hub and roll pin to loosen it up a little. 

Edited February 1 by oliver2-44

[oliver2-44 10,035]

Friday. 
I got the Input shaft, brake shaft and right axles seal gently pried out without to much trouble.  I sanded and honed the shafts smooth and taped the keyways to protect the seals as I slid them on.  I used the input pulley and rear hub as a slide hammer on those shafts to tap the new seals in. Used some 3/4 pvc to tap in the brake shaft seal. 

The input pulley has some heavy rust that turned into holes when I wire wheeled it clean. Thankfully I have a spare. I also wire wheeled cleaned the clutch idler and engine pulley. 

Got distracted and sanded the shifter balls to remove the oxidation. 

Then buffed them on a cloth polish when on my grinder with white roughe compound. At least something is shiny. 

Back to the steering wheel. I drilled the roll pin out with carbide masonry drill bits. Then I used a 3 jaw puller to pull the hub off the steering shaft. The heat broke it loose and it came off semi easy. 

 

I used a snap gage and micrometer to measure the cylinder bore top and bottom 4 places.  I got 3.281 to 3.282 While my measurements aren’t perfect they tell me this cylinder was bored 0.030 thousands oversize.   The top of the piston is not stamped oversize, but it seems some of the aftermarket ones are not stamped oversize 

Edited February 1 by oliver2-44

[Retired Wrencher 5,572]

Jim looks like you are doing it right. Doing things the right way always take up so much time. Doing it quick is never the right way. Enjoy the project and the ride when done.

[JCM 9,865]

43 minutes ago, Retired Wrencher said:

 Doing things the right way always take up so much time. Doing it quick is never the right way.

 

[oliver2-44 10,035]

Thanks @JCM and @Retired Wrencher

There’s a few thing I’m not doing not like the left rear seal. That hub is on tight so I want to choose that battle when I have plenty of time. 

Didn’t get any tractor work done Saturday. One of my sons bought a playscape kit. So 3 of us spent a solid 10 hr day working on it. The instructions are 100 pages and the numbers on some of the parts are hard to read.  In addition to the main frame pictured we have several sub wall an other panes put together. It uses star bit bolts for assembly in 2 - 5@ lengths. It kept One person busy finding parts and bolts for the next piece all day. 

We actually had a 4th helper. The black thin once he shoulder is a dewalt drill. 

She’s inspecting our work too. 

[JCM 9,865]

Thanks for the mention. You don't seem like the type of person that sits idle too long. and I like that. Your a good man.  @oliver2-44  Keep on trucking !!

[Handy Don 12,956]

1 hour ago, oliver2-44 said:

Every team needs a well-qualified Quality Assurance person--yours seems to be enjoying their job! 😄

[oliver2-44 10,035]

Who was it that posted a picture of a disassembled dryer last week??

This morning after church I remembered one of my honey do was to checkout the squeak in the dryer.

Right rear tire is flat with a bad bearing.  I ordered all 4 tires and a belt off the Jungle site. 

Back to tractors, I got the brake put back together with a new spring. While I was there I freed up the clutch adjustment trunnion for future adjustment

Also slipped the rear hitch pin back in with some copper never seize. 

Also freed up the PTO adjustment trunnion 

The rubber fuel tank grommet gave a good fight. I finally boiled it in water in the microwave for 3 minutes and it squeezed right in. Gas tank reinstalled new fuel line run to the front. Of the tractor. 

 

No picture, but I checked the valve tappets and found the Intake at 0.015 and readjusted to 0.009 in spec. The exhaust tappet was tight at 0.010 so adjusted it to 0.018 in spec. 
 

I wasn’t going to pull the blower housing and flywheel right now.  But I couldn’t find the timing mark through the little hole and figured it probably needed cleaning behind it anyway. A hand Impact Screw Driver is the best way to get those rusted flywheel screen screws out. 

Thankfully after putting tension on the puller it came of with one sharp blow of my 3lb hand sledge 

With this tractor having been used as a mower I was really surprised it wasn’t very dirty behind the flywheel. But I gave the stator a gentle cleaning with a tooth brush and spray electrical cleaner.  I also cleaned out the cylinder fins from this back side. 

Not a great picture, but the steering wheel hub is JB welded back together. 

 

 

[oliver2-44 10,035]

I changed oil and rotated tires on wife car and my truck, so got some of the honey dos done. 
I said I was finished disassembling, but forgot to include pulling the carb, fuel pump and breather. Their soaking in the ultrasonic cleaner and I’ll check valve clearance. I also ran a tap through all the head bolt holes. Clean threads are helpful for a proper bolt torque. The breather cavity was fairly clean, so that’s encouraging. 

Another disassembly in progress is the steering wheel hub. If you look back in this thread you’ll see the steering wheel plastic hub wired together with baling wire. I’m trying to save the steel hub and epoxy the whole thing back together. I did a similar repair on my C81 when I got it. But it wasn’t cracked quite as bad as this one.  Wet rag at base to save dash. 

I media blasted the metal brake band. Soaked the brake lining in the ultrasonic cleaner to de grease it. Then scratched the back side up with sand paper

I wrapped the brake drum in plastic wrap and clamped the band and lining together around it. I used some Goop to glue the brake lining together around the metal band

The rust pitting on PTO face is deep. Along the outer 1/2”. Since it’s essentially junk, I’m going to try a long shot fix. I’ve seen 500f epoxy putty advertised. So I’m going to go blast the pitting to get it weary clean and establish an anchor profile. (I learned that fancy lingo back at work from industrial paint and epoxy salesmen. All their adhesion warranties are based on anchor profile. My thinking is the clutch metal should not get excessively hot as long as the clutch isn’t slipping. I have a used clutch plate with an ok pad, so If this idea fails  won’t be wasting a new clutch pad. 

 

I removed the front snap ring and tapped out the front OTO bearing. Lifted the seal and will regrease it with so good red and tacky grease.   
Tomorrow I need to get to work gently removing those 3 transmission seals. 

Edited yesterday at 01:57 AM by oliver2-44

[Easton Rich 443]

Where did you get that flywheel puller?