Lane Ranger 10,972 #1 Posted October 23 Yesterday I finally got around to putting on my rebuilt RJ transmission (thanks Keith Jones and Larry Eads). Put the rear wheels on this am. ( old Montgomery Wards ag tires with a different style tread) . Began to work on motor tins, cull together missing parts ( clutch rod, lift cable, transmission boot, read hitch, etc. amazed at the parts I have!) Here are some pictures of the first two days. Yes that hood had some purple paint on it! Sanding with three types of paper! Going to finish up with Rustoleum Matte Clear as the final cover coat. 4 13 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,972 #2 Posted October 23 One of the RJ tractors I bought several years ago had a great deal of original literature and paperwork 📋 about the sale etc. what I have poster here is the cover for my original Master Catalina (probably 1958). A September 1, 1957 price list and an August 1, 1958 price for RJ tractor and all the dealers attachments, and tractor add ins! I think this is already on the Red Square site in publications etc but I thought I would post again for all you RJ Wheel Horse owners! 6 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,845 #3 Posted October 24 (edited) 3 hours ago, Lane Ranger said: old Montgomery Wards ag tires I love those tires but old?? They look brand new minus the nubbies. Tread pattern is almost the 6-12 version of these. I get a lot of complements on the plow field about their performance. Edited October 24 by WHX?? 4 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,924 #4 Posted October 24 (edited) Lane I really have a thing for those tires, someday I’ll even own a set! I almost bought a non-wheel horse tractor at Portage just for the tires, I should have done it and tried to flip it with another set! Edited October 24 by Pullstart 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,845 #5 Posted October 24 16 minutes ago, Pullstart said: Lane I really have a thing for those tires, someday I’ll even own a set! They would look & perform good on any round hood. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,783 #6 Posted October 24 2 hours ago, Pullstart said: I really have a thing for those tires Only tractor guys would understand making a statement about "tires" in the same way we would talk about the good looking girl across the aisle back in our school days! 2 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,972 #7 Posted October 25 (edited) A little more work on the RJ Patina Specisl yesterday! closeup of the Wards Riverside for Pullstart! The Kohler K 91 tins. - painted International Harvester Red. I removed the drive pulley that was in this motor. With 3/4 shaft and I have an original to replace on it. Unusual muffler in this Kohler K91 that I am going to keep. I will thread the exhaust end and place 3/4 black pipe with a pepper pot muffler on the end! My patina fender pan looks good on the RJ patina Special and I have a good seat, left cable . I placed a rear hitch on the transmission case yesterday also. Edited October 25 by Lane Ranger 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,845 #8 Posted October 25 20 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: tires" in the same way we would talk about the good looking girl across the aisle back in our school days! Ain't that the truth Jim! Looks like the muff is a stock one that someone closed off the outlets and welded a pipe on? Guessing the block is threaded behind it? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,169 #9 Posted October 25 The engine I got from Cas for my Suburban originally had a bolt on muffler. Behind it was a 1/2" threaded hole. I had to use a 3/4" to 1/2" reducing street elbow. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,972 #10 Posted October 27 On 10/25/2024 at 9:57 AM, squonk said: The engine I got from Cas for my Suburban originally had a bolt on muffler. Behind it was a 1/2" threaded hole. I had to use a 3/4" to 1/2" reducing street elbow. I had one with a flat muffler before and removed it and it was unthreaded. I had to have it threaded at a machine shop near me. Probably the better way to go! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,023 #11 Posted October 27 3 hours ago, Lane Ranger said: I had one with a flat muffler before and removed it and it was unthreaded. I had to have it threaded at a machine shop near me. Probably the better way to go! You don't need a machine shop to thread those exhaust ports, you need a NPT tap. Tilt the engine over so the port is facing straight down and tap it up so the chips fall right out to the floor. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,972 #12 Posted October 27 37 minutes ago, wallfish said: You don't need a machine shop to thread those exhaust ports, you need a NPT tap. Tilt the engine over so the port is facing straight down and tap it up so the chips fall right out to the floor. yes I am not going to be lazy! I figure when I take the muffler off it is not going to be threaded in the Kohler K91 exhaust port so why not! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,972 #13 Posted October 27 Two small but important parts on a Wheel Horse RJ are the brake rod # 3545. ( # 90 in RJ manual drawing ) and the clutch spring anchor # 3585 (# 104 in the RJ manual drawing). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,972 #14 Posted October 27 Ok I took the flat muffler off the Kohler K91 motor I am working on for my RJ Patina Special. I broke the top bolt (snapped the nut) which as rusty as it was I figured one or both would snap. But bottom one came off nice. Lo and behold the exhaust port appeared to be threaded! Like Wallfish and WHX indicated I will use an NPT tap and clean the threads better but I used my dremel tool to clean the threads and ran a short 3/4 pipe I had just to see if it was going to work it way in ok. 👍 looks like I am in business for an RJ exhaust pipe set up. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,023 #15 Posted October 27 22 minutes ago, Lane Ranger said: Lo and behold the exhaust port appeared to be threaded! Nice! Yeah, many aren't threaded when you see those flat mufflers mounted. I like to run the engines and get that port area hot when trying to remove exhaust bolts or even the head bolts near the exhaust. (If possible, but No need to worry in this instance since it's changing to a pipe). Backyard hammer mechanic tip, if you grind thin perpendicular lines into some scrap pipe threads on the pipe, it will clean out the engine threads better than just screwing a pipe in. Screw in, back off, keep repeating as necessary, then use the actual pipe piece you're going to use when you believe it's ready. Of course a real tap is best but sometimes it just needs a little cleaning out of the threads so the pipe trick works for that. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,169 #16 Posted November 16 On 10/27/2024 at 11:02 AM, wallfish said: You don't need a machine shop to thread those exhaust ports, you need a NPT tap. Tilt the engine over so the port is facing straight down and tap it up so the chips fall right out to the floor. Be sure to be wearing flip flops whilst doing this! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,972 #17 Posted November 19 I have been able to get a little more work done on the Patina Special RJ. I installed the gas tank today . I also finished my Harley Davidson Softail Chrome heat shield that I use for the Wheel Horse exhaust pipe cover. I have used these on two other Wheel Horse RJs as opposed to an original or remake heat shield. These are cheaper on eBay than a remake RJ heat shield , they add "BLING" and the broom handle clips fit perfect in the black slots that Harley Davidson has on these shields. I drill two 1/20 holes in the center spot of the underside bracket H/D has on these. I also still have an old Briggs muffler I am goi g to use on this one! My next couple steps are to put the gas line, throttle cable, align the drive pulley, place a belt and a repo drive belt guard. If you look at the hood I decided to bolt down the gas tank straps (I used the originals) but did not want to weld them back on. However, I did have to bolt them on the top as the heads had to be smooth and short underneath to allow the tank to set correctly. The Kohler K91 motor is a good one I had running well before installing. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,972 #18 Posted November 19 On 10/27/2024 at 3:17 PM, wallfish said: Nice! Yeah, many aren't threaded when you see those flat mufflers mounted. I like to run the engines and get that port area hot when trying to remove exhaust bolts or even the head bolts near the exhaust. (If possible, but No need to worry in this instance since it's changing to a pipe). Backyard hammer mechanic tip, if you grind thin perpendicular lines into some scrap pipe threads on the pipe, it will clean out the engine threads better than just screwing a pipe in. Screw in, back off, keep repeating as necessary, then use the actual pipe piece you're going to use when you believe it's ready. Of course a real tap is best but sometimes it just needs a little cleaning out of the threads so the pipe trick works for that. Wall fish: do you use an electric grinder with light touching or would a hand file work better??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,023 #19 Posted November 19 7 hours ago, Lane Ranger said: Wall fish: do you use an electric grinder with light touching or would a hand file work better??? I use a cutoff grinder wheel so it's thin cuts.( 5 or 6 ) You could use a hack saw, reciprocating saw, grinder, file etc. It shouldn't make too much of a difference how. I just like using the cutoff wheel 'cause it's fast and the edges of the cuts in the threads are sharp. Plus it creates flying sparks! LOL They don't need to be perfectly spaced or straight 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,376 #20 Posted November 19 On 10/27/2024 at 3:17 PM, wallfish said: Backyard hammer mechanic tip, if you grind thin perpendicular lines into some scrap pipe threads on the pipe, it will clean out the engine threads better than just screwing a pipe in. I have done a similar thing by cutting a narrow wedge out of the threaded end of a pipe. The edge of the wedge will knock all the accumulated rust and carbon off and it goes into the pipe as you turn it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,845 #21 Posted November 19 I have all the taps if you want to borrow them but 'Fish's method works well for just cleaning them up. That Briggs muff is cool ...the closest thing to a shower head we'll get these days. I don't like the look of the bulky coupling tho. I have smooth ones if you want or that one could be turned down. I suppose on a tractor like this it doesn't matter. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 629 #22 Posted November 20 Looks awesome!! Especially with those rear tires, they just have that old tractor look. Looks like you will be running and driving in no time. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,972 #23 Posted November 20 13 hours ago, WHX?? said: I have all the taps if you want to borrow them but 'Fish's method works well for just cleaning them up. That Briggs muff is cool ...the closest thing to a shower head we'll get these days. I don't like the look of the bulky coupling tho. I have smooth ones if you want or that one could be turned down. I suppose on a tractor like this it doesn't matter. Jim: Yes that close up photo of the coupling got me thing about getting a different nipple and cleaning that up a bit too! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites