MainelyWheelhorse 433 #101 Posted October 25 2 hours ago, Alrashid2 said: I noticed my Kohler engine as well as the frame is pretty sludgy. Assuming it leaks a bit but what old engine doesn't? Anyway, what's the best way to wash this horse down without damaging anything? Assuming a pressure washer is too much? Should I just manually scrub and wash down with a hose? Would like to clean her up a bit! Also still curious about the clutch and brake pedals if anyone knows... Thanks all @Alrashid2 I've pressure washed both of mine with no issues. I wouldn't deep clean around the electronics with it. Adjust the brake and then it might line up better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #102 Posted October 25 Thanks will do! I actually did adjust the brake as it was not braking enough and the e brake wouldn't hold 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041 #103 Posted October 25 Here is what we have on your model. The search results are in no particular order. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=21-12k801&quick=1&type=downloads_file Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,815 #104 Posted October 25 Don't worry about the pedal issue it's normal ... your nit picking. As far as washing off the shelf degreaser is fine and a light pressure washing. 8 hours ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: I wouldn't deep clean around the electronics with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #105 Posted October 25 2 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Don't worry about the pedal issue it's normal ... your nit picking. As far as washing off the shelf degreaser is fine and a light pressure washing. Thank you sir! I'm definitely a nit picker. I also build AR's and have been told similarly in their respective forums haha... Thanks for the reassurance and advice Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,436 #106 Posted October 25 Not to be pushing my brake linings, but when dealing with brakes, sometimes a new lining makes all the difference in the world, not only when stopping, but holding the tractor when the parking brake is set. I sell the linings as does wheelhorsepartsandmore.com Message either of us if interested. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,934 #107 Posted October 25 Clutch pedal can be adjusted by turning trunnion #22 on clutch rod #14 as shown on attached diagram. Clutch linkage.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #108 Posted October 27 (edited) On 10/25/2024 at 9:01 AM, cleat said: Clutch pedal can be adjusted by turning trunnion #22 on clutch rod #14 as shown on attached diagram. Clutch linkage.pdf 81.72 kB · 8 downloads Thanks Cleat. I assume just adjusts where the pedal sits? Maybe I'll just let mine be. I got my Kelch gas cap in by the way! Fits and seems to read properly. Only annoying thing is it's not lined up. I assume that's normal? Also wanted to add that my Amazon voltage meter worked! Replaced today Edited October 28 by Alrashid2 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #109 Posted October 28 On 10/25/2024 at 8:44 AM, rmaynard said: Not to be pushing my brake linings, but when dealing with brakes, sometimes a new lining makes all the difference in the world, not only when stopping, but holding the tractor when the parking brake is set. I sell the linings as does wheelhorsepartsandmore.com Message either of us if interested. Hey brother, finally got to looking at my brakes and am I right in thinking I don't even have a brake lining? It looks like I just have the band and no pad! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,520 #110 Posted October 28 Welcome....and yes you are correct... NO BRAKE LINING !!! Time to reline or replace the band...it will operate much better !!! John 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #111 Posted October 28 2 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said: Welcome....and yes you are correct... NO BRAKE LINING !!! Time to reline or replace the band...it will operate much better !!! John Yikes! No wonder I was having brake trouble lol! Shocked I am able to stop at all! @rmaynardcould you tell me more about your brake lining? Do you have one for a 312-8? Is it difficult to replace? Id like to buy one from you please! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #112 Posted October 28 Can I also ask you guys 2 more questions? 1. What should the voltage read at full throttle? Saw my voltage was spot on at 15 volts and just wanted to make sure that wasn't too high. Confirmed the new gauge is correct with a multimeter. 2. Am I OK to run the tractor at varying throttle positions? At full throttle the thing is LOUD! I find that lowering it even just a bit reduces the RPMS enough to really quiet it down (not idling of course) and I'm still getting enough speed/power just fine. Just wanted to make sure that wasn't a big no no. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,216 #113 Posted October 28 (edited) 2 hours ago, Alrashid2 said: Can I also ask you guys 2 more questions? 1. What should the voltage read at full throttle? Saw my voltage was spot on at 15 volts and just wanted to make sure that wasn't too high. Confirmed the new gauge is correct with a multimeter. 2. Am I OK to run the tractor at varying throttle positions? At full throttle the thing is LOUD! I find that lowering it even just a bit reduces the RPMS enough to really quiet it down (not idling of course) and I'm still getting enough speed/power just fine. Just wanted to make sure that wasn't a big no no. 1. 15 is a tad high, but I would not trust that gauge alone to be accurate. Confirm the reading with a decent quality Volt-Ohm meter. 14.5 would be ideal. 2. Yes, tractors are noisy. I always wear ear protection, usually 28db 3M over-the-ear (~$30 and you will thank me in your dotage when you can still hear your grandchildren). The engines are designed to run at full or near-to-full throttle, 3,300 to 3,600 RPM for any sort of extended working period. It's not about power/speed, it's about circulating oil (spashing) and cooling. Edited October 28 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #114 Posted October 28 2 minutes ago, Handy Don said: 1. 15 is a tad high, but I would not trust that gauge alone to be accurate. Confirm the reading with a decent quality Volt-Ohm meter. 14.5 would be ideal. 2. Yes, tractors are noisy. I always wear ear protection, usually 28db 3M over-the-ear (~$30 and you will thank me in your dotage when you can still hear your grandchildren). The engines are designed to run at full or near-to-full throttle, 3,300 to 3,600 RPM for any sort of extended working period. It's not about power/speed, it's about circulating oil (spashing) and cooling. Thanks for responding! 1. I did confirm it with a multimeter and it read 14.95 Volts. This is at Full Throttle, so not sure if that makes a difference. 2. That is great to know, understood. I'll see if I can grab a tach and find out at what position is 3300 RPM and ensure I don't go below that. Thanks again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,216 #115 Posted October 28 (edited) 1 hour ago, Alrashid2 said: This is at Full Throttle, so not sure if that makes a difference. It might. Max voltage is always at full throttle but how much it varies over the RPM range depends on your engine model. If it has a voltage regulator, it’ll jump from ~12 (the current voltage in the battery) up to the max at as little as 2500 RPM and then stay there, If you have a diode for converting the generated AC into DC for battery charging, the voltage varies steadily depending on RPM. Of course, the above depends on the state of charge/condition of the battery. Thread is too long for me to read back over it all, but do you have the wiring diagram for your model? Edited October 28 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #116 Posted October 28 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: It might. Max voltage is always at full throttle but how much it varies over the RPM range depends on your engine model. If it has a voltage regulator, it’ll jump from ~12 (the current voltage in the battery) up to the max at as little as 2500 RPM and then stay there, If you have a diode for converting the generated AC into DC for battery charging, the voltage varies steadily depending on RPM. Of course, the above depends on the state of charge/condition of the battery. Thread is too long for me to read back over it all, but do you have the wiring diagram for your model? Thanks for the reply. I do have the wiring diagrams yes, but not the best at reading them! I suppose if everything is all working well, then no issues. Battery is a 2018 and seems fine and holds a charge. Figured if something was wrong it would have ruined that battery by now but wanted to check! Another random question here: after looking at pictures of other Wheel Horses, I realize mine is missing the headlight bevels! Are they necessary or purely cosmetic? I was going to get a set but for $40 I rather just let them be if it's not a big deal. I'm only on 1.5 acres with neighbors so don't foresee ever running at night anyhow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,436 #117 Posted October 28 5 hours ago, Alrashid2 said: @rmaynardcould you tell me more about your brake lining? Do you have one for a 312-8? Is it difficult to replace? Id like to buy one from you please! Got your email. Info sent. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,011 #118 Posted October 29 8 hours ago, Alrashid2 said: Thanks for the reply. I do have the wiring diagrams yes, but not the best at reading them! I suppose if everything is all working well, then no issues. Battery is a 2018 and seems fine and holds a charge. Figured if something was wrong it would have ruined that battery by now but wanted to check! Your charging system responds directly to the load your battery requires of it. In short- I wouldn’t be concerned with a 15vdc charge rate right after cranking. Several of my machines peak at 16vdc immediately after starting, and taper off to around 13vdc after 20-30 minutes of charging. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,198 #119 Posted October 29 The condition of the battery and the connections to the battery can make the charging system work harder. Clean and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds. Any corrosion or looseness acts as a resistor and interferes with proper charging. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #120 Posted October 29 Thank you sir, will confirm that all again but on initial inspection everything appeared good. I thought I'd share with you all the breakdown of costs so far. I believe this will cover everything. -$500 for the tractor -$68 initial maintenance (fluids, filters, etc) -$97 replacement parts (boots, gauge, gas cap, etc) -$78 new seat -$21 misc hardware and tools required $774 out the door for a new to me tractor, running smoothly, sounds pretty good to me! What do you guys think? 1 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #121 Posted October 29 The thread has gotten really bloated, so going to leave it up and start a fresh one. Thanks all! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #122 Posted November 1 Wanted to ask in this thread too in case anyone is still reading: Do I need the Dial a Matic feature in order to use a plow? My current 312-8 doesnt have one and it looks like the lift adjustment is either fully up or fully down. I'm curious if that works with a plow or not? Unless the plow has some adjustment on it to fine tune so I'm not scraping? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,158 #123 Posted November 1 17 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said: Wanted to ask in this thread too in case anyone is still reading: Do I need the Dial a Matic feature in order to use a plow? My current 312-8 doesnt have one and it looks like the lift adjustment is either fully up or fully down. I'm curious if that works with a plow or not? Unless the plow has some adjustment on it to fine tune so I'm not scraping? For normal snow plowing the blade is completely lowered so the weight of the blade and frame scrapes the surface clean. If you want to keep the blade up so it is not scraping, you will need the dial-a-matic or some device to limit the height of the blade.. You can make adjustments to the lift link(chain or solid bar) to set the minimum blade height. I have a blade side sway control rod that also has a series of holes that I use to set my blade height when plowing on my stone road. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 165 #124 Posted November 1 On 10/28/2024 at 4:47 PM, rmaynard said: Got your email. Info sent. Got the brake lining brother, thank you! Siliconed onto the band and zip tied and will re install tomorrow ! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,011 #125 Posted November 2 On 10/29/2024 at 8:44 AM, Alrashid2 said: What do you guys think? I think you have the sickness. Congratulations! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
