AHS 1,443 #1 Posted October 19 C120/sundstrand w/hydro lift. It runs and moves just fine, the issue is with the lift. In the lift cylinder. once the cylinder is all the way extended, there is an extensive leak around the stem to the cylinder. Alright, so i went onto Wheelhorsepartsandmore and looked up the seal kit. Now the site said the seal kit would only work from late 70s thru 520. The C120 is an early 70s. My cylinder looks the same as what they show… 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,479 #2 Posted October 20 Give Lowell a call, discuss it with him...?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,717 #3 Posted October 20 14 hours ago, AHS said: The C120 is an early 70s. The C-120 was made from '74 to '77. It should work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #4 Posted October 20 36 minutes ago, Blasterdad said: The C-120 was made from '74 to '77. It should work. The Charger and C Series tractors I've had from 1970 to 1978/9 and the 1984 GT1800 all had a welded cylinder. They're not meant to be serviceable by normal mortals. @wheelhorseman Lowell does cut & rebuild them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,717 #5 Posted October 20 From the description....Cylinder has a snap ring, more than likely this is the seal kit for the cylinder. That is the easiest way to tell... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,758 #6 Posted October 27 (edited) On 10/20/2024 at 11:26 AM, ebinmaine said: The Charger and C Series tractors I've had from 1970 to 1978/9 and the 1984 GT1800 all had a welded cylinder. They're not meant to be serviceable by normal mortals. @wheelhorseman Lowell does cut & rebuild them. The OEM welded cylinder is # 6618 as on the early C series C-120, C-160. That is exactly what I have and here is how I stopped the leaking cylinder: This was an easy fix and I did not have to cut/reweld the cylinder. It STILL does not leak or drip. Edited October 27 by daveoman1966 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 460 #7 Posted December 15 On 10/26/2024 at 8:58 PM, daveoman1966 said: The OEM welded cylinder is # 6618 as on the early C series C-120, C-160. That is exactly what I have and here is how I stopped the leaking cylinder: This was an easy fix and I did not have to cut/reweld the cylinder. It STILL does not leak or drip Excellent solution! Can you elaborate on how you drilled the holes into the end of the cylinder? I'm assuming they had to be somewhat precise. I may want to copycat in the near future. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,758 #8 Posted Monday at 07:29 AM Easy--- mark a circle on piece of cardboard. From center of that circle, draw 3 lines @ 120 degrees to perimeter. Center that cardboard on the copper washer (#4) and with a sharp pin punch, mark the washer and drill it first. Once you have the washer drilled with 3 evenly spaced holes, use it as the template to drill and tap the holes in the cylinder body. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 460 #9 Posted Monday at 01:16 PM 5 hours ago, daveoman1966 said: Easy--- mark a circle on piece of cardboard. From center of that circle, draw 3 lines @ 120 degrees to perimeter. Center that cardboard on the copper washer (#4) and with a sharp pin punch, mark the washer and drill it first. Once you have the washer drilled with 3 evenly spaced holes, use it as the template to drill and tap the holes in the cylinder body. Thanks! I was more curious on how you drilled the cylinder - I don't have any machining equipment, and my drill press is rather wimpy. My options would be drilling by hand or finding someone with the proper tooling. Looks like I'd only have one shot at getting it right, so I don't want to screw it up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #10 Posted Monday at 06:00 PM 4 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said: Thanks! I was more curious on how you drilled the cylinder - I don't have any machining equipment, and my drill press is rather wimpy. My options would be drilling by hand or finding someone with the proper tooling. Looks like I'd only have one shot at getting it right, so I don't want to screw it up. I believe the holes @daveoman1966 drills could be a few degrees off and still be a viable repair. Just use the washer after it's drilled as the template for the holes at the cylinder end. Center punch a good start pilot. Go in small increments. Even a hand drill with a relatively steady hand/person you'd be good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 460 #11 Posted Monday at 06:26 PM 25 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I believe the holes @daveoman1966 drills could be a few degrees off and still be a viable repair. Seems reasonable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,758 #12 Posted Monday at 06:43 PM I don't have adrill press either.... just used my pistol grip Craftsman hand drill. Drill slowly and keep straight as possible. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 460 #13 Posted Monday at 09:05 PM 2 hours ago, daveoman1966 said: I don't have adrill press either.... just used my pistol grip Craftsman hand drill. Drill slowly and keep straight as possible. Excellent! Thanks for clarifying! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
