Dozer down pressure?

[Mark siebenaler 88]

Looking to buy the longer bar so I have down pressure what's your thoughts concerned it could damage things doing this. 

[ebinmaine 67,471]

Just now, Mark siebenaler said:

Looking to buy the longer bar so I have down pressure what's your thoughts concerned it could damage things doing this. 

 

We've used down pressure to clear snow for several years. It's great it's scraping ice or really hard snow after tires have crushed it down.

 

With a manual lift tractor I'm not so sure you could push hard enough to do much damage.

 

I'd be extremely cautious and very aware about using it on a hydro because it will lift the front end very easily.

[Handy Don 12,217]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

because it will lift the front end very easily.

The rear axle bracket is plenty sturdy, but supporting most of the weight of a tractor on the hydraulic lift rock shaft-to-plow frame lift link and then scraping along, well, I would avoid the risk! The C-195 and the GT-14 (and maybe others?) have a float position on their hydraulic control, of course.

Edited October 11 by Handy Don

[c-series don 8,705]

I have done it with a hydro for years and have never damaged anything. As long as you don’t operate it like an idiot, you’ll be fine. 

[ebinmaine 67,471]

Just now, c-series don said:

I have done it with a hydro for years and have never damaged anything. As long as you don’t operate it like an idiot, you’ll be fine. 

 

 

 

Wellllll......

I'm out then....

[oliver2-44 9,743]

I’ve dug and pushed a fair amount of dirt with my C160 and Dozer blade with down pressure.  As Don said just don’t go crazy. The granite gravel clay in my area can be rock hard when dry. But with the right amount of moisture and some finesse is dig-able. 

[kpinnc 12,017]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Wellllll......

I'm out then....

Same… 

 

The hydraulic cylinder has a very small diameter ram. It gets around this weakness by lifting implements on the pull stroke. Using down pressure will place all of the stress in the push stroke. Depending on how far out that rod is extended when you hit something solid, it will bend like a plastic straw. 
 

Just something to think about. 

 

Edited October 12 by kpinnc

[953 nut 55,218]

Any slight change in terrain will result in a rapid loss of steering control if you have down-pressure applied to a grader blade.  Many people add weight to the blade itself. 

[ebinmaine 67,471]

57 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

add weight to the blade itself

 

Agreed. That's what I did to my 60 inch WIIIIIIDE plow.  

[OutdoorEnvy 1,522]

I've got manual lift rigs and wondered about adding a little front weight to the plow as well.  How much is a good range to do without over doing it?  I know it's more to lift manually but is around 50 pounds a good target?  Almost thought of filling a 5 gallon bucket with concrete and using that to put on the plow and maybe another for rear weight on my 2" receiver.  Thoughts? 

[ebinmaine 67,471]

44 minutes ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

I've got manual lift rigs and wondered about adding a little front weight to the plow as well.  How much is a good range to do without over doing it?  I know it's more to lift manually but is around 50 pounds a good target?  Almost thought of filling a 5 gallon bucket with concrete and using that to put on the plow and maybe another for rear weight on my 2" receiver.  Thoughts? 

 

I think you'd be headed the right direction. I would highly advise you make a solid link out of heim joints which will reduce the wear and tear on both the plow frame and the tractors rock shaft.

 

Personally, I'm a huge fan and advocate of fluid filling tires. That puts the weight inside the tire where it should be which has the double benefit of creating traction and not increasing wear and tear on the transmission.

 

 

 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,522]

24 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I would highly advise you make a solid link out of heim joints which will reduce the wear and tear on both the plow frame and the tractors rock shaft.

 

 

 That's a good idea.  Any chance you have a pic of that setup?

[ebinmaine 67,471]

7 hours ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

 

 That's a good idea.  Any chance you have a pic of that setup?

 

Thought I did but can't find it.  

 

 

Get a pair of 7/16" male/female tie rods. I use McMaster Carr. Get some matching 7/16" thread rod and jam nuts. 

7/16" because the 3/8" holes in the tractor and implement are almost always egged out. 

Drill that to correct the holes to round. 

Also because the slightly larger size is exponentially stronger.  

 

Male side goes through the tractor and implement. Female side is for attachment using thread rod. 

 

Measure the pin-to-pin length of the original Wheelhorse solid link. 

Cut the thread rod to duplicate that length with the tie rods at or near being bottomed out on the rod. More thread engagement is more strength.  

 

 

 

 

 

[Wayne0 457]

22 hours ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

I've got manual lift rigs and wondered about adding a little front weight to the plow as well.  How much is a good range to do without over doing it?  I know it's more to lift manually but is around 50 pounds a good target?  Almost thought of filling a 5 gallon bucket with concrete and using that to put on the plow and maybe another for rear weight on my 2" receiver.  Thoughts? 

I attach a 3' piece of rail road track on top of the blade. Plenty heavy.

[Handy Don 12,217]

19 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

exponentially stronger

Yep, because the rod’s cross section is equal to πr^2  (pi times the radius squared!)  👍

Edited October 13 by Handy Don

[953 nut 55,218]

[Lee1977 6,659]

Not sure what you are trying to do. If leveling a lawn it's best to till it first, your not doing to move much hard dirt. Wheel Horse tiller or walk behind.

As has been all ready said crushed stone can get hard. I have crusher run stone on my drive it get as hard as pavement. Here is what I used on my drive.

 

I also made a longer clevis hitch and it work much better than the WH clevis hitch with this implement.

I built this one, it's a Pulverizer larger ones are used to plant grass with three point tractors.

The wench is used not because I couldn't lift it, but it's heavy enough that made it almost imposable to press down the release.

The release on manual lift 300, 400, and 500 doesn't go straight down it has a small radius. 

This post doesn't say anything about "Down Pressure". Just showing something that works.

[peter lena 8,625]

@Lee1977  totally agree with that  center  blade mount , much easier all around on function , qnd frame stress , another glairing issue rarely thought of with plowing , is the  added stress on front wheel bearings . regular checks of everything , shows something developing . thats your , get after it wake up , pete