'69 GT-14 Front Tach-O-Matic and mule drive addition.

[BurtB 88]

Borrowing heavily from @Aldon from pictures in his Lazarus thread. Began by following @daveoman1966 's pdf on it.

 

My frame below the front casting is a little different. Couple pieces of angle iron welded together and into the "nose" of the frame:

 

Will be adding this assembly (Guard currently removed):

 

Belt in pictures isn't for use, I'm just using it for head scratching on clearances.

 

Plan is to get a piece of 2x2 x 1/4" angle and bolt it to the top piece of frame angle.

 

Tach-O-Matic will be attached off center to allow belt to clear the side of the front casting. With the standoff that the angle gives, I should actually get full turning radius. I.E. the tire shouldn't hit.

 

[WHX?? 48,813]

A PO thing? Can't be ground off? What's with  the fins on the side?

@19richie66 factory? 

Edited October 7 by WHX??

[BurtB 88]

I'll investigate further, but it appears to be original. The paint has consistent rust/wear with the rest of the frame. Doubt it was PO.

 

While I could grind it off, I kind of hate to if it's original. It won't be any trouble to drill a couple of holes and bolt a piece of angle on. That will give me a flat surface to mount to. The extra standoff should also allow me clear the tire.

 

I ordered 2x3 angle. The extra inch should allow me to put the holes in the bottom angle where they'll be pretty much invisible when the assembly is removed. I'll end up loctiting the Tach-O-Mati to the angle. Angle will be held with nylock nuts.

[19richie66 17,500]

All the gt14’s I have seen have the cheesy 1/8” flat plate across the front of the frame. This looks like someone welded a new piece in its place with a purpose. Maybe a blade with outriggers that had a rodnthat went to the hole on the side? Anything is possible with a welder. I replaced my factory “plate” with a 1/2” plate and put an Attachamatic on it. Never have had a mower on it. Aldon’s thread is also where I got the idea. 

[peter lena 8,603]

@BurtB  also a perfect time  to RE GREASE THOSE MULE DRIVE BEARINGS , remove pulleys , lay out  disassembly , critical  for correct smooth function . easy to remove wide rubber bearing side shields , small flat putty knife , flat pocket screwdriver , don't roughhouse the seals , pry to remove , easy to save , lucas green grease , 550 degree drop point , polyurea rated , makes those bearings silent , by the way that lubrication upgrade , is what makes that deck assembly , operate with a solid quiet operation . imagine no bearing whine . like to wipe out original " lubricant " flush with carb cleaner , repack to same ammount , my 3  horses have that set up , every bearing upgraded , every movement point moves with ease , pto lever does not  squeal , with easy engagement .  just an opportunity , pete  

[peter lena 8,603]

@19richie66 nice looking set up ! simple / solid /strong  tire / wheel combo looks  very solid , just got some new front wheel bearings myself , going in today . pete

[BurtB 88]

I'll probably not fool with bearings, grease and such right now. Will be doing an engine and transmission rebuild in the nearish future. Already have a floppy steering bar, will deal with all that sort of thing while I have the engine off the frame.

 

Looking closer, the wings and angle weldment are bolted on to the frame and not part of the frame. I still think I'll attach to angle instead of the frame itself. Keeps me from drilling the frame more and the standoff keeps it from interfering with the turning radius. If it's not wheel horse made, it's well built and appears to be around the same age as the tractor.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,829]

That looks like it was for a front end loader.  The ARK500 I had required a piece like that to hold the subframe up, and the wings were for the side upright braces.

[WHX?? 48,813]

Might be on to something there Kev... I thought maybe some sort of front blade. 

[peter lena 8,603]

@BurtB  another opportunity , while you have that  frame stripped down , run a 5/16  steel brake line , into the upper corner of frame , out of sight , easily secured with related frame holes , or drill a few , make that your new fuel line , eliminate  a lot of fuel hose rot , put a filter close to tank , another close to carb , only clear vinyl  at end connection points . clean out tank . just a thought , pete

[peter lena 8,603]

@Pullstart  those bearings are cake to remove clean out / re grease , like said , lay out the mule drive , as you dissemble , so you can EXACTLY  reinstall  bearing spacers , typically never think of  mule drive  HEAT / STRESS , but those bearings do get hot . lucas chassis or  marine grease , has a 550 + deg rating polyurea rating , have that in all my deck related bearings , except outer pto cone clutch  connection , thats sealed . combine that with a PTO LEVER  TUNE UP / DETAILING FOR FUNCTION , and the entire  rotational  belt drive  is very smooth , and no squealing  clutch engagement , just feed it in easily , the rotation is already  , to move .  pete 

[Pullstart 62,829]

45 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

That looks like it was for a front end loader.  The ARK500 I had required a piece like that to hold the subframe up, and the wings were for the side upright braces.

Here is a link where I did some rework on mine before selling it.

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/84537-stormy-the-1056/?page=4&tab=comments#comment-977398

 

[BurtB 88]

Sorry for the late response, y'all. Tin for garage and coop was delivered today and I picked up the rest of the lumber I needed to rebuild roofs. Will be a little busy.

 

@Pullstart Man, I wish I had a front end loader.

I've been kicking around the idea of making an auger using a rear diff but haven't even researched yet.

 

Just glanced at your thread, will take a deeper look, probably tomorrow morning over coffee.

 

@peter lena Just curious, what is your reasoning for two fuel filters? Also, I used Lucas red n tacky on my pulley bearing next to the clutch. You don't like it? (It's my go-to for bearings unless a black molly is called out)

 

Also, you seem to be real into lubes and proper quiet running. I'm really conscientious about proper lube. Seen way too many broken machines for no good reason other than neglect. Have you seen Magnalube G or Triflow? Those are my magic lubes.

[BurtB 88]

@Pullstart @WHX?? The piece that Pullstart is referring to is very similar to mine. I'm guessing that differences are due to frame size. Figure that it is WH made. Wish I had the loader or whatever attachment that went with it. I do have a snow plow/front blade that was on the tractor when I bought it. It didn't use that bracket.

 

Snow plow was originally yellow or green, seeing remains of both colors of paint. It is wheel horse made, has a label. It is rust colored now and needs a lot of work. I'll try and shoot some pictures today.

[Pullstart 62,829]

42 minutes ago, BurtB said:

I'm guessing that differences are due to frame size. Figure that it is WH made.

You are correct, my loader was from a standard size C series frame.  The GT14 and 953/1054 frames were much wider and heavier duty.  

[peter lena 8,603]

@Burt B  thanks for the reply ! went to 2 fuel filters after , my typical fuel tank debris  issue , was looking for a  cure / stop to the REPITITION  of fuel hose in my  carb bowl , since using  STABIL  ,in all my fuel , have had zero debris in , my tanks , filters , or carb bowl , must be working , this is a very typical problem to many , ethanol fuel , without stabil , devours  rubber related hose. add 1 1/2 oz  to all my top offs , no debris . red/ tacky is good  stuff , but since going over to the lucas HD GREEN CHASSIS GREASE on any rotational movement point , especially bearings , really like  the way it just stops , lubrication failure. also like black moly lubes . made a point of eliminating  repetitive problems , found horses can be  made  much improved , with  functional  detailing , often  nothing more than firming up sloppy  connections , lube and verification of said spot . ever try PUSHING A CHOKE /  THROTTLE CABLE ?  haw about 3-1 penetrating lube and spring pull assist  to  close movement ?  spring assist  in any move , pete      

[kpinnc 11,982]

On 10/8/2024 at 8:54 AM, Pullstart said:

selling it.

You sold your loader?  

[Pullstart 62,829]

5 hours ago, kpinnc said:

You sold your loader?  

And purchased a loader project… still not complete 

[kpinnc 11,982]

2 hours ago, Pullstart said:

And purchased a loader project…

 Ok, Ok, that’s not so bad… 

 

After 20+ years of searching for a loader, I have pretty much decided it’s an item I will not have. A couple have appeared, but down here the price was insane or it was in such poor shape (or both) that it wasn’t feasible. Guess I’ll drool over the pictures, or maybe one day just take the leap and buy a smaller farm tractor. 

[Pullstart 62,829]

@kpinnc seems you’re handy enough around a welder.  Ever thought to make one?

[kpinnc 11,982]

2 hours ago, Pullstart said:

 

@kpinnc seems you’re handy enough around a welder.  Ever thought to make one?

 

Yes. I’ve thought about that a couple times. Just never taken the plunge. The way some of my projects go, I think it’s something I might just never finish! 

[BurtB 88]

14 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Burt B

 

@peter lena I put Stabil in any gas can I fill. Great stuff. I try and always get ethanol free gas for my small engine equipment, haven't found a close local source yet but haven't looked hard. Pretty sure that the PO was using regular with ethanol. I'm going to be tearing it all the way down anyhow, I'm sure the seals and hoses are eaten up from it.

 

I strongly dislike 3-1 multipurpose. It varnishes like WD-40. I hate WD-40, not good as a lube and Aero-Kroil is way better for breaking. 

 

There is 3-1 motor oil, it's a straight SAE grade. It has a little blue electric motor on the bottom of the label. It's great stuff for bearings and pretty high speeds. Especially oillite bearings. I use it on the bearings of my Craftsman/Atlas lathe.

 

I also dislike white lithium grease, ain't good for nothing but caking up into clay. I've done some work on food service stuff or drinking water stuff, can't remember, but it was required due to its non-toxicity, so it's got that going for it.

 

For control cables, I usually use Triflow. You get the penetration but it leaves behind a film of Teflon as well. With the research now showing how bad microplastics are for us, especially PFAS plastics such as Teflon, it probably give us all cancer but it sure does work good. I will likely be replacing the cables on my WH.

 

I'll pickup a tube of the HD green grease and play with it. Never used it that I know of. Have used the green grease for chainsaws.

 

---

 

Long day, didn't get pictures of snow plow. Kitchen ceiling started leaking at 8:00p. Father in law is coming tomorrow to see the new place and will be here for several days. Joy.

 

I'll try again to get pics tomorrow.

Edited October 10 by BurtB
Deleting unnecessary quote.

[peter lena 8,603]

@BurtB   often refer to spring assist on  related cabling , choke / throttle , in addition  to super lube inside the cable , always add a LIGHT extension spring  to related  lever connection point  , why ?  its always ASSISTING ANY CABLE MOVEMENT  , always pulling it to CLOSED ,  that would always make for consistent  cable slide assist , experimented with this set up , because it was always anything but , smooth / easy .  

 

those cables are easy to do , penetrating oil soak down , super lube next , look for a spring assist  pull point , or screw on a perforated metal go to point , experiment with  light spring pull  feel assist , my 3 horses have this , for years , pete 

[peter lena 8,603]

@Burt B  interesting  that you still use ethanol free gas in your small engines ,  experimented with  STA BIL  , and also  changed out  all my fuel hoses  , cleaned out my fuel tanks / generator , all my carb bowls , guess what  ?  since adding  1-1/2  ounce  of stabil to all my small engines , also replacing  old rubber fuel lines , I have nothing  at all for debris in tanks or fuel filters . did that as a test / trial , has obviousely  worked for me . its also cheaper all around  for getting gas . all my filters are clean / clear , carb bowls are clean . use regular ethanol gas with zero side effects , experiment with a trial , pete     

[BurtB 88]

@peter lena I guess I mostly use ethanol free out of superstition. I've always heard it's the best for small engines or anything older than the introduction of ethanol due to seal degradation. I haven't researched or done any trials.

 

Does seem to be harder to find in Pennsylvania than it was in the south.