My first Wheel Horse is a C-120 Automatic

[Bar Nuthin 217]

8 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

The axle holes get worn. You can ream them with a tapered bridge reamer  from 3/4” to 1”. Then put a brass bushing in them. This can be done by hand with axle in a vice and reamer turned by a cordless drill. The slight angle of the spindle hole will be close enough for these slow speed tractors. 
 

While your at it check the axle center pivot pin and hole. These can also be reamed and bushed.  

 

Solid recommendation! Thank you!

[peter lena 8,623]

 @Bar Nuthin  only because you like KROIL ,  am I suggesting this , like to run in an unknown engine , also heat up for  hot oil change , use a separate gallon of  heavily treated fresh gas , also drop carb bowl , clean out , like rotella  30 wt  and 4 ounces of  RISLONE  ZINC  to 2 qts of oil , exact bottle mix , a varnish cleaning  additive that makes those  engines run with a  very comfortable ease . oil changes are like hot black coal oil , flushing out the crud . glad for you and your  mind set . ask away  , stay oily , pete  

[Bar Nuthin 217]

I noticed this PTO Interlock switch behind the side panel.  

 

It has been bypassed and there is no harness plug for it. Does anyone know the correct wiring, if I wanted to re-connect it?

If nothing else, I guess I could just test continuity and see which posts interrupt the wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid.

 

I'm guessing there should be an interlock for the hydrostatic control as well. 

 

Switch Pto Safety Push-button 104680 List.jpg - Electrical - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

 

Edited October 4 by Bar Nuthin

[WHX?? 48,815]

On 10/2/2024 at 2:13 PM, Bar Nuthin said:

I noticed the PTO clevis was bent, so I pulled the PTO to have a look inside.  I found these parts inside. But looking at the schematic, no such parts are shown. Everything in the diagram is intact. The outer PTO shaft spins freely in its bearing and the appropriate snap rings seem to be in place. Any ideas?

 

 

 

Somebody had parts in there that didn't belong. Looks like the remnants of a thrust bearing of sorts. the outer bearing is designed to act as a thrust bearing if it's the correct bearing. Assemble exactly as show in the IPL. 

 

I notice you have the usuall battery box issues ... the fix here...

 

Edited October 4 by WHX??

[WHX?? 48,815]

9 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

interlock for the hydrostatic control as well. 

 

No but is a switch located by the brake/return to neutral pedal that must activated for the engine to start. 

Many guys bypass the switches as they can be troublesome with age. Not recommended if others unfamiliar with it operate the tractor.  

 

 

Edited October 4 by WHX??

[Bar Nuthin 217]

5 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

No but is a switch located by the brake/return to neutral pedal that must activated for the engine to start. 

Many guys bypass the switches as they can be troublesome with age. Not recommended if others unfamiliar with it operate the tractor.  

 

 

@WHX?? I may or may not be "one of those guys"  - but just learning that I might need to look at adjacent years when troubleshooting is valuable knowledge! The wiring diagram I had showed a 2-prong switch. Now that I realize what I'm looking for it all makes sense. Thanks!

[Sailman 1,291]

I have 2 C-120 Hydros and can attest they will do anything you need them to. One bit of advise. When you change transmission oil be sure to jack up front end to get it to drain right. When refilling, here's the fun part...use a straw to let air escape or you can have oil burping all over. One of my C-120's i filled with no straw and no burping. The other one was a mess burping oil back out .

Then I saw the advice on this forum about the straw...

One of them was slow moving hydro when warm so I used 10w40 and it has run fine ever since.

[Bar Nuthin 217]

Got the parts I needed for the headlights and replaced the filament bulbs with bright LED bulbs. I have some stainless steel tubing I may polish up and use as reflectors behind the bulbs.

 

Question: The original wire going to the headlights was gone. What is the best way to route the new wire?

 

[ebinmaine 67,465]

8 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

Question: The original wire going to the headlights was gone. What is the best way to route the new wire?

 

Originally it would have been routed along the frame under the engine using clips to hold it away from the steering. 

 

 

[kpinnc 12,017]

Everyone has made some great comments for you here. I’ll add just one more:

 

Add some type of connector in the wires to the bezel near the hood pivot. Be sure the hot side is female type or at least in a boot so you don’t have a hot connector dangling if it comes loose. If you need to remove the hood for maintenance, it’s far easier to just unplug and go.  

[Bar Nuthin 217]

On 10/6/2024 at 3:22 PM, kpinnc said:

Everyone has made some great comments for you here. I’ll add just one more:

 

Add some type of connector in the wires to the bezel near the hood pivot. Be sure the hot side is female type or at least in a boot so you don’t have a hot connector dangling if it comes loose. If you need to remove the hood for maintenance, it’s far easier to just unplug and go.  

Just picked up some plug-in connectors and wire clips the other night.  Tonight I'm going to go through, and solder & heat shrink my temporary connections and reroute the wires correctly.

[ebinmaine 67,465]

12 minutes ago, Bar Nuthin said:

solder & heat shrink

 

I'm not by a long shot a wiring expert so take this for what it's worth which is very little.  

Several years ago I read on forums involving off-road vehicles and boats that a lot of people were going away from using soldering because the wires occasionally will break off at the point of attachment. I believe it's to do with tempering and heat treatment while soldering is going on. I stopped doing any soldering at all quite a while ago and have had no problems yet. Even battery cables. I bought the correct heavy duty crimping tool and I heat shrink every connection no matter the size.

[8ntruck 6,999]

  Soldering the wires creates a drastic change in the stiffness of the wire where the solder ends.  This will cause a fatigue failure in the wire when subjected to vibration.  This is more likely to happen on a connection to a device mounted to the tractor (switch, coil, etc) than in a splice in the middle of a wire run.

 

I had a 1973 Triumph Spitfire a long time ago that I had installed a capacitor discharge ignition system in.  I had cramped and soldered the power connections.  Left me stranded in a left turn lane in the middle of 4 lanes of traffic when one of the wires broke off where it solder ended a couple of weeks after the installation.

[peter lena 8,623]

@Bar Nuthin  would recommend  a BALL HITCH  

[peter lena 8,623]

@Bar Nuthin would recommend a ball hitch  for frequent hook ups , also have my attachments  propped up  for perfect back up /  drop on ball fit , all related are lubricated for ease of movement , lever  connection ,  pete  

[Bar Nuthin 217]

10 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

  

 

I had a 1973 Triumph Spitfire a long time ago that I had installed a capacitor discharge ignition system in.  I had cramped and soldered the power connections.  Left me stranded in a left turn lane in the middle of 4 lanes of traffic when one of the wires broke off where it solder ended a couple of weeks after the installation.

 

   I had a 1973 Triumph Spitfire back in 1979.  The only electrical problem I had was when I ran off the road on a foggy night and hit a telephone pole guide wire. It put a perfect crease down the center of my bonnet. Drove home on backroads with the headlight beams crossing each other about 6 foot above (and in front of) the hood! 

[Bar Nuthin 217]

10 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Bar Nuthin would recommend a ball hitch  for frequent hook ups , also have my attachments  propped up  for perfect back up /  drop on ball fit , all related are lubricated for ease of movement , lever  connection ,  pete  

 

Since my main purpose of wanting a tractor was to maneuver my trailer around the property, a ball hitch was the first thing I added. The previous owner had added a plate for a clevis hitch.  I try to remember to get a photo.

[Bar Nuthin 217]

On 9/29/2024 at 4:49 PM, oliver2-44 said:

Give this a area a good gentle cleaning.  Then follow the maintenace manual and lube the linkage it list, but also don't lube some of the linkage it list.  

 

 

 

@oliver2-44 I cleaned up this mess and lubricated the friction points I could see.  I must have lubricated one of those area you said "don't lube some of the linkage it list".

 

Now when traveling forward, my hydrostatic lever magically vibrates to full speed ahead unless I hold it in place.  Is there an adjustment (or other fix) for this?

[8ntruck 6,999]

I'm guessing that you lubed the cup and cone do floppy inside the square frame piece of linkage near the bottom of the picture.  That area needs to be dry to produce enough friction to keep the motion control lever in place.

Edited October 11 by 8ntruck

[Bar Nuthin 217]

9 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

I'm guessing that you lubed the cup and cone do floppy inside the square frame piece of linkage near the bottom of the picture.  That area needs to be dry to produce enough friction to keep the motion control le er in place.

 

Doh! Yes, I did! I think I'll use some electronics cleaner to "un-lube" it, as to not damage the plastic.

[ebinmaine 67,465]

9 minutes ago, Bar Nuthin said:

 

Doh! Yes, I did! I think I'll use some electronics cleaner to "un-lube" it, as to not damage the plastic.

 

 

Lemme know how that works...

 

I have one that loses speed instead of gaining it.

[8ntruck 6,999]

2 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

 

Doh! Yes, I did! I think I'll use some electronics cleaner to "un-lube" it, as to not damage the plastic.

What kind of lube did you use?  Like @ebinmaine, I'm curious to know how cleaning it works out.

 

I am a mentor for the local high school's robotics team.  Pre season activities are underway.  I like to point out to the students that one gains knowledge from one's own mistakes, and, if one pays attention, one can gain wisdom from other's mistakes.

[Moparfanforever 844]

13 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

 

@oliver2-44 I cleaned up this mess and lubricated the friction points I could see.  I must have lubricated one of those area you said "don't lube some of the linkage it list".

 

Now when traveling forward, my hydrostatic lever magically vibrates to full speed ahead unless I hold it in place.  Is there an adjustment (or other fix) for this?

There is a metal shaft that goes through those parts, and unfortunately, they rust to the shaft. You can loosen the big nut on the right, and there is four flat spots on the part that has threads. IF the part with threads isn't rusted to the shaft, you can turn it in to put more tension on the big spring, or turn it out for less tension. Good luck, the part with threads and the part of the friction cone will rust to the shaft. 

[Moparfanforever 844]

This tab is welded to the shaft that goes through those parts, it keeps the shaft from moving. Alot of times these are broken from people trying to move the hydro handle with everything rusty. 

 

[kpinnc 12,017]

On 10/10/2024 at 9:30 PM, Bar Nuthin said:

The only electrical problem I had was when I ran off the road on a foggy night and hit a telephone pole guide

Not gonna solve that one with solder or crimp-on connectors.