My first Wheel Horse is a C-120 Automatic

[Bar Nuthin 191]

I needed a garden tractor, primarily for moving my heavy utility trailer around my property. Secondarily, I think I can make good use of a snowplow.  I found this C-120 Automatic that seemed to be mostly complete and runs well.  It also came with a snowblade, chains, and aftermarket wheel weights. I thought $400 was reasonable.  I'm posting here to begin my learning curve as I begin going through it to make it a solid performer.  If I develop an affection for it, I may attempt a restore. I have mechanical and paint skills but no Wheel Horse specific knowledge.

 

I'm glad there are online communities like Red Square where I can gain insight!

[ebinmaine 67,397]

 

You'll do just fine with that machine. 

 

Whatever questions pop.. just ask. 

[Ed Kennell 38,114]

to the  Doug.

 

The C-120 Hydro is a great tractor..     It was also my first Wheel Horse around 50 horses ago.   

 

 

 

 

[oliver2-44 9,726]

The C120 Hydro is a great tractor. It will do all you ask of it.

here's some notes to help you go over your new tractor.

 

 

Give this a area a good gentle cleaning.  Then follow the maintenace manual and lube the linkage it list, but also don't lube some of the linkage it list.  

 

Pased on the engine Serial Number you tractor is a 1976 model

I'll find you the sundstrand manual later

Edited September 29 by oliver2-44

[8ntruck 6,998]

to the forum.  You picked a very capable machine.  Like @ebinmaine said, don't be shy about asking questions.  As a group here on the forum, it is very rare that someone has not seen and solved whatever you are asking about.  Probably will get several answers.

 

Since it looks like you have the seat and fenders off, take time to clean the cooling fins on the hydro unit.  You will want to be careful with a pressure washer around shaft seals, though.

[Achto 27,562]

[Bar Nuthin 191]

4 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

The C120 Hydro is a great tractor. It will do all you ask of it.

here's some notes to help you go over your new tractor.

 

Give this a area a good gentle cleaning.  Then follow the maintenace manual and lube the linkage it list, but also don't lube some of the linkage it list.  

 

I'll find you the sundstrand manual later

 

Thank you!

[Bar Nuthin 191]

3 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

to the forum.  You picked a very capable machine.  Like @ebinmaine said, don't be shy about asking questions.  As a group here on the forum, it is very rare that someone has not seen and solved whatever you are asking about.  Probably will get several answers.

 

Since it looks like you have the seat and fenders off, take time to clean the cooling fins on the hydro unit.  You will want to be careful with a pressure washer around shaft seals, though.

 

Ah, come on. Doesn't look that bad. 

 

[WHX?? 48,813]

 

4 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

I'll find you the sundstrand manual late

Got it covered Ollie...

 

 

[Bar Nuthin 191]

Thanks for warm welcome and assistance.

I have a few things I would like to make right. Any help or leads would be greatly appreciated.

1. Oil Dipstick - missing the top cap. (Thankfully it's still intact from the plug down and usable thanks to a bush-fix)
2. Headlight housing - (PO had a new lens but the housing is MIA) FOUND ONE! 
3. PTO belt to power the 42" side discharge mower deck - I keep finding conflicting information on the correct size.
4. Blades for 42" side discharge mower deck
5. Hood pivot rod - Mine has been bolted on and is kind of sloppy. The holes in the hood appear to be slightly larger than the holes on the frame (like maybe there's supposed to be a bushing???) Is there any type of hood stop that keeps the grille from hitting the frame?

Thanks again!

Edited September 30 by doughoag@me.com

[WHX?? 48,813]

3 minutes ago, doughoag@me.com said:

Headlight housing - (PO had a new lens but the housing is MIA)

We call those headlight buckets ... post a ad in wanted 

 

4 minutes ago, doughoag@me.com said:

Hood pivot rod - Mine has been bolted on and is kind of sloppy. The holes in the hood appear to be slightly larger than the holes on the frame (like maybe there's supposed to be a bushing???

Possible fix

[oliver2-44 9,726]

You can use the Toro filter or a NAPA Gold 1410 or WIX 5140.  These are hydraulic filters that do not have a bypass valve.  you do not want to use an oil filter which has a bypass valve.

[Pullstart 62,831]

 Doug!  Nice ride!

[WHGuy413 2,683]

Welcome! That tractor will fit your needs just right. So many people here who are always willing to offer help

[Bar Nuthin 191]

21 hours ago, doughoag@me.com said:

Thanks for warm welcome and assistance.

I have a few things I would like to make right. Any help or leads would be greatly appreciated.

1. Oil Dipstick - missing the top cap. (Thankfully it's still intact from the plug down and usable thanks to a bush-fix)
2. Headlight housing - (PO had a new lens but the housing is MIA) FOUND ONE! 
3. PTO belt to power the 42" side discharge mower deck - I keep finding conflicting information on the correct size.
4. Blades for 42" side discharge mower deck
5. Hood pivot rod - Mine has been bolted on and is kind of sloppy. The holes in the hood appear to be slightly larger than the holes on the frame (like maybe there's supposed to be a bushing???) Is there any type of hood stop that keeps the grille from hitting the frame?

Thanks again!

 

Adding to the list   

1. Front spindles are very sloppy inside the axle. Best approach to remedy?
2. Mower deck spindles mis-matched. Has someone swapped it out, or is it supposed be this way?
3. 

 

[Wayne0 453]

You must know by now, you came to the right place. Not sure about the spindles (wrong nut on the center) but the blades are toast!

[Bar Nuthin 191]

14 minutes ago, Wayne0 said:

You must know by now, you came to the right place. Not sure about the spindles (wrong nut on the center) but the blades are toast!

 

Yes, it's an entirely different spindle/blade with a D shape center and 3 pins, held on with a 3/8" bolt and star washer. I'm guessing that's why I've been having so much trouble finding blades! 

Edited September 30 by doughoag@me.com

[953 nut 55,163]

Below is a link that will take you to every manual associated with your model number.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=61-12KS02&quick=1

36 minutes ago, doughoag@me.com said:

Mower deck spindles mis-matched. Has someone swapped it out, or is it supposed be this way?

One thing that can be said for Wheel Horse is that parts interchangeability is one of its best features. The center spindle has been replaced with an older style one that uses a different blade type known as a Double D. Those blades can be hard to come by and rather expensive. Lincoln at A to Z Tractor can fix you up with a good used spindle and blade as well as any other parts you need.      https://www.a-ztractor.com/         Give him a call.

[ebinmaine 67,397]

8 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Lincoln at A to Z Tractor can fix you up with a good used spindle and blade as well as any other parts you need.      https://www.a-ztractor.com/   

 

    GIVE HIM A CALL .

 

 

@doughoag@me.com

 

Note that above I added a tad wee bit of... enhancement...

 

Lincoln is a good guy. 

VERY BUSY.  

 

Don't trust his website inventory.  He admittedly doesn't have time to keep it properly updated.  

 

 

CALL HIM.  

 

 

📞☎️

 

[ebinmaine 67,397]

55 minutes ago, doughoag@me.com said:

Front spindles are very sloppy inside the axle. Best approach to remedy?

 

Remove the spindles and check for excessive wear of either the spindle (3/4" OD) or the axle. 

 

Lincoln can help with a spare set there too. 

If you need an axle I have one here.  

 

 

[WHX?? 48,813]

Another good source for deck parts is 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/177-kb-horse-parts/

[Bar Nuthin 191]

I noticed the PTO clevis was bent, so I pulled the PTO to have a look inside.  I found these parts inside. But looking at the schematic, no such parts are shown. Everything in the diagram is intact. The outer PTO shaft spins freely in its bearing and the appropriate snap rings seem to be in place. Any ideas?

 

 

[peter lena 8,604]

@ doughhough@ me.com , like KROIL  to recover  rusty  , used to move anything , get some on / in  it days / weeks out , keep it wet , probably  move without too much effort . those PTO set ups , are easy to do , with correct parts , key is the correct  hi temp / stress lubricant , also good opportunity  to re do the , lever start area , side of dash , usually sloppy , needs , washers and lubricant to , firm it up , makes it solid / smooth , your spindle  axels are also reflective of lubrication neglect , seams overwhelming at first , but you are  recovering neglect , go  from  spot to spot , get some marker tags , write down issue , move on . get the worst first , then you can back track as you go , good luck with it , keep in touch , others will chime in , pete 

[Bar Nuthin 191]

4 hours ago, peter lena said:

@ doughhough@ me.com , like KROIL  to recover  rusty  , used to move anything , get some on / in  it days / weeks out , keep it wet , probably  move without too much effort . those PTO set ups , are easy to do , with correct parts , key is the correct  hi temp / stress lubricant , also good opportunity  to re do the , lever start area , side of dash , usually sloppy , needs , washers and lubricant to , firm it up , makes it solid / smooth , your spindle  axels are also reflective of lubrication neglect , seams overwhelming at first , but you are  recovering neglect , go  from  spot to spot , get some marker tags , write down issue , move on . get the worst first , then you can back track as you go , good luck with it , keep in touch , others will chime in , pete 

 

I swear by Kroil. After a while you even get hooked on the smell!  

 

This piece has definitely been rode hard, yet other than wear issues (despite mountains of grease everywhere) and a few redneck repairs, it seems to be pretty sound. The 12 HP Kohler doesn't smoke, miss, or have any knocks and the hydro seems clean and strong.  

[oliver2-44 9,726]

On 9/30/2024 at 5:45 PM, Bar Nuthin said:

 

Adding to the list   

1. Front spindles are very sloppy inside the axle. Best approach to remedy

 

The axle holes get worn. You can ream them with a tapered bridge reamer  from 3/4” to 1”. Then put a brass bushing in them. This can be done by hand with axle in a vice and reamer turned by a cordless drill. The slight angle of the spindle hole will be close enough for these slow speed tractors. 
 

While your at it check the axle center pivot pin and hole. These can also be reamed and bushed.