kpinnc 11,881 #26 Posted October 1 You may have a few little things to line up, but as has been said the pulley placement is your main concern. There are plenty of brands of engine that will work. Of course some are better than others. That’s just a decision you’ll have to make. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,330 #27 Posted October 1 Per request I moved to here 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #28 Posted October 1 Thanks so much everyone, I appreciate the guidance! Jonathan 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #29 Posted October 1 I can't say that I am surprised, but the more I dig in, the more I realize that I need to dig in more. While the transmission shifts freely, I discovered the brake was frozen and the main top pulley was in pretty bad shape so out it came. I stripped my first rusted bolt while removing the caliper (documentation is pretty fuzzy so not 100% sure that's what it's called), probably won't be the last. To my surprise I found a worm in it! LOL! I have no clue how the brake works, and found some replacement pads at A-Z Tractor but can't figure out if they'll work... part of tomorrow's learning. Current state for the poor old guy, hoping I can save him! 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,234 #30 Posted October 1 1 hour ago, shaggydoink said: Current state for the poor old guy, hoping I can save him! You're doing great! No worries. 1 hour ago, shaggydoink said: found some replacement pads at A-Z Tractor but can't figure out if they'll work... part of tomorrow's learning. CALL 📞 ☎️ Lincoln at A to Z. He's pretty knowledgeable about tractor-ology in general. Good guy. He may even have some additional insights for your model. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #31 Posted October 3 On 9/30/2024 at 7:16 PM, Wayne0 said: As long as you can line up the belt and it fits under the hood, anything is possible. We'll help you as needed. OK... it's needed. LOL! I found a few possible replacement engines, ones I've zeroed in on are a Briggs and Stratton 28D707 and a Kawasaki FB460V. Here is where I'm stumped. Both have a 1" x 3.15" long shaft according to my research. The Tecumseh that came with the machine has a shaft length of approximately 4.5", but the pulley that I really care about (the top one) has a 1.75" drop (picture posted earlier). Could a pulley be installed at specific height on a new engine or do I need to be looking for an engine that has a shaft length of 4.5" so I can remove the pulley pair from the Tecumseh (upper belt and lower belt) and install it on a new engine? Hope that makes sense, thanks in advance! Jonathan 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 11,881 #32 Posted October 4 (edited) 3 hours ago, shaggydoink said: Hope that makes sense, thanks in advance! You’ll be hard pressed to find an engine shaft 4 inches long nowadays. Just over 3 is more common. But, you can use spacers to set the pulley that goes to the transmission on the 3 inch shaft. Also- vertical engines often use a welded collar with both pulleys that is held in place by a bolt into the end of the engine shaft. Finding a comparable replacement shouldn’t be impossible. Edited October 4 by kpinnc 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,045 #33 Posted October 4 If you don't plan to use the mower deck the lower pulley can hang below the end of the crankshaft without any problem. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #34 Posted October 4 Thanks guys. I'm still a little fuzzy on exactly HOW this will work, but knowing that one of these replacement engines CAN work is exactly what I was trying to determine as step one, so mission accomplished! I appreciate the ongoing help. Jonathan 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #35 Posted October 4 As I thought about things, it occurred to me that if I bought just an engine for $50-100 that I'd still be missing a number of needed parts like a fuel tank, fuel pump, ignition and seat all of which together might start adding up cost-wise. I found someone selling a newer model Craftsman for $70 on Facebook Marketplace, did some quick research and took a gamble that it'll do the trick... if not, I may already have a second project on my hands! LOL! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #36 Posted October 4 Well, I knew this was going to be a learning experience... it didn't even occur to me to check the dimensions of the engine on the T100, turns out it measures 11.5" from the shaft center to the front edge, whereas the A-100 only has room for 8.5" (maybe 9" max). Oops! I'm not overly concerned, my wife actually took a liking to it when she saw it so maybe it too will get some life breathed back into it one day. Back to Facebook Marketplace I go, this time a smidge wiser. Jonathan 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 428 #37 Posted October 4 Hey, the tires are worth more than that! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sailman 1,291 #38 Posted October 5 Just a thought on the rims. I had some front rims with holes and pin holes, rotted tires setting outside... I cleaned the rims as best I could with wire wheel and die grinder (get rid of any sharp edges). Used epoxy and fiberglass over the larger holes and coated thickened epoxy over pin holes. Painted them and put tires with tubes on them and have had great success keeping them in service. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #39 Posted October 6 I've got a line on two other possible donor machines, one has a 12.5HP Briggs and Stratton, the other has 15HP Kohler. Both are $80, hopefully I'll end up with one of them and not BOTH of them, but we'll see. I fussed with the Craftsman T100 for a bit and got it running, so what I don't keep I figure I can sell. In the meantime, I spent some time researching and ordering the parts I'll need for the A-100. Tires, tie rods, brake pads, tail light lens, headlight lens, shift knob and decal set... underwater on the investment vs. value I'm sure, but I'm determined to save this poor little guy. I also spend some time cleaning up parts. I need to finish off the nooks and crannies, but the transmission is getting there as are the rims... a few pictures below. I was going back and forth on whether I want to do a complete re-paint or clean up and capture the current patina. The hood has a big chunk cut out on one side for some unknown reason, so I'm thinking I'll have to go the complete re-paint round... which means more tear down... feeling a little like Alice in the rabbit hole! LOL! Jonathan 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,234 #40 Posted October 6 Nice deep dive!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #41 Posted October 9 I had to head back to my company's HQ for a couple days, but returned this afternoon and got a smidge of work done. The first item was the brake disc which was fused onto the spindle. I drenched it with PB Blaster for several days, tried a couple different pullers, a pickle fork, heat... rinsed, repeated but no go so I finally cut it off and have a replacement on order. I also got the rotted tires and tubes cut free from the front wheels (not quite as bad as the rear ones, but close!), I'll get them cleaned up then do some fiberglass patching next on all four of them. I've also been noticing some junk weeping from the shifter, at first I thought it might just be dirty water as it was sitting outside, but thinking it might be a bad seal? I'll be doing some research on this, but any input would be welcome... and since I'm in the thick of it, I'm feeling like it would make sense for me to drain and put fresh fluid in the transmission? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,234 #42 Posted October 9 14 minutes ago, shaggydoink said: and since I'm in the thick of it, I'm feeling like it would make sense for me to drain and put fresh fluid in the transmission? I'm not familiar with that particular type of transuhmassion so take this for what it's worth.... On our heavier duty cast iron transmissions we ALWAYS change flush change disect or even disassemble the entire unit. Not sure if that's SOP on a Peerless but I'd be likely to tackle it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 6,990 #43 Posted October 9 I was into a Pierless transmission in a Craftsman mower maybe 30 years ago. That one was using grease, not oul. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #44 Posted October 10 Thanks guys! I'll at least do what the owner's manual suggest, I appreciate the input. I'm off to (hopefully) get another donor mower, fingers crossed. Jonathan 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #45 Posted October 10 (edited) Another mower followed me home today... I'm like a magnet these days! LOL! The price was right at $70. It's got a 12HP Briggs and Stratton I/C engine, I got it placed in the Wheel Horse and was thrilled to see that the bolt pattern was exactly the same as the original Tecumseh from front to back: And I've got good clearance in the front: The air filter looks a little awkward... I may try to relocate or at least do a different cover so it looks a little better: I'll need to do some research to figure out where a battery was supposed to go, but there's a spot where I should be able to house it: The fuel tank? I'll either need to modify the steering console thingy or find something else... The last item is a question... well, two questions. I measured the vertical height of the upper pulley on the driveshaft and it's about 1/4" higher than I need. Question #1, I think this is what y'all meant by adding a spacer... I just need to add something of the proper height to the shaft above the pulley assembly to get the vertical height set right, right? Question #2, I don't have any plans to use this guy as a mower. Is there any reason I couldn't chop off the lower pulley? Jonathan Edited October 10 by shaggydoink 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #46 Posted October 11 I spent a bunch of time early this morning looking for a fuel tank solution, right before giving up I bumped into a listing on eBay. It'll need a little TLC and cap, but it's 10" x 5" x 4" which is perfect! I love the color and patina too, an old tank for an old tractor... so much to do! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 559 #47 Posted October 11 42 minutes ago, shaggydoink said: I spent a bunch of time early this morning looking for a fuel tank solution, right before giving up I bumped into a listing on eBay. It'll need a little TLC and cap, but it's 10" x 5" x 4" which is perfect! I love the color and patina too, an old tank for an old tractor... so much to do! Great work! It will all come together in time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #48 Posted October 13 (edited) Several of the nearby communities in my area got ravaged by the hurricane so I've been spending most of my free time volunteering the past little bit, I was finally able to get back to wrenching on the A-100 today... or perhaps I should say dismantling it. I've been taking lots of pictures, tagging pieces and storing bolts and various pieces in marked Zip Lock bags - just my way of doing projects, especially in cases where I'm in uncharted waters like this one. I'm about 75% done, next step will be to start cleaning things up and getting into painting which I'm excited for! Jonathan Edited October 13 by shaggydoink 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaggydoink 81 #49 Posted October 13 Still at 75%, this little demon was the blocker... the roll pin on the lift lever: I sprayed its evil, rusty self with PB Blaster and will try again with a better set of pin punches tomorrow... funny how such little things can wreak such havoc. Jonathan 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,234 #50 Posted October 13 1. Try a different penetrating oil. 2. Heat it. 3. Try to "back up" the whole machine. Get a board or pipe etc to go from that point to a solid item. Wall. Vehicle hitch or bumper. This takes the flexibility and ability of the tractor to move, out of the equation. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites