Bungie cord got wrapped around the axle, now I need to change the seal.

[EchoBravo 11]

My apologies because I know there are a million axle seal threads.  This is on my 520h with eaton 1100.

 

I got the hub off easy enough.  The trouble is now I do not know exactly what I am looking at.  Below is a pic.  Is the red arrow pointed at the metal outside of the seal?  I assume the green arrow is pointing the rubber bungie cord that got wrapped around the axle and got pushed under the seal, thus ruining it.  How do I go about removing it?  I started picking on it, but can't make any progress and now I am worried I will mar the surface and ruin everything. Any help removing the seal will be greatly appreciated.  

 

[ebinmaine 68,205]

14 minutes ago, EchoBravo said:

red arrow pointed at the metal outside of the seal? 

 

Yes. 

 

14 minutes ago, EchoBravo said:

How do I go about removing it?

 

I use a long thin 1/4" wide flat screwdriver 🪛  to purposefully dent in and destroy the seal. 

 

Use care of course to avoid scratching the axle but it's unlikely you would. 

 

After creating several dented in areas the seal will spin on the axle shaft. 

Just pop it right off.  

 

 

[EchoBravo 11]

Thanks for the tip.  I already started destroying it, so I am on the right track.  Just wanted to make sure I wasn't picking on the bearing. 

 

[953 nut 55,734]

I do about the same as @ebinmaine only I use a scratch awl to pernitrate the metal ring near the axle housing then pry it out. Just be careful to avoid going in too deep and damaging the bearing.

[EchoBravo 11]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

 Just be careful to avoid going in too deep and damaging the bearing.

Thats what I am worried about now.  I was gorillaing it a little bit last night when I was getting frustrated.  

[peter lena 8,716]

@EchoBravo  you are way ahead of most , with the hub removal , usually rust frozen in place , https://www.google.com/search?q=packing+puller&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=packing+puller+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQABiABDIGCAIQRRhAMgcIAxAAGIAEMggIBBAAGBYYHjIICAUQABgWGB4yCAgGEAAYFhgeMggIBxAAGBYYHtIBCDY5MTFqMGo0qAIAsAIB&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#vhid=LKON2YWI-And-M&vssid=l  a packing puller will make quick / easy work of  a side wall seal . tiny hole in seal sidewall , screw in puller , pull out and replace . you might even pick up a seal #  , would also get some penetrating oil , on the other side hub , just in case , remove the set screw , for a penetrant  entry point . that seal is is on the very outside of  mounting point , just go easy on removal  procedure . puller make this an easy removal , try harbour freight  ,pete

[squonk 41,291]

I drill a small hole in the metal of the seal on both sides and thread in a small sheet metal screw. Then I get out my small Harbor Freight slide hammer with a hook attachment that grabs the screws and pulls out the seal.

 

[WHX?? 49,130]

Same thing happen to me but with a steel cable when pulling stumps. i doubt you would wreck the bearing unless you pounded on it really hard which there is no need for. 

 

There should have been a thrust washer that goes behind the hub make sure that goes back in. Also don't forget to tape the keyway to avoid nicking the new seal. Most of us use a short pvc pipe of appropriate diameter to seat the seal. 

Use new set screws if possible & recheck them for tightness after a couple hours of operation. 

 

New  seals can be had here.

 

Seals Archives - Wheel Horse Parts and More

Edited September 20 by WHX??

[lynnmor 7,352]

There should be a plastic washer behind each hub.  Be sure to install new seal about 1/32" inside the housing so the thrust washer does not wear on it.  Toro part number 106826.

 

[WHX?? 49,130]

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

Toro part number 106826.

Which they can be quite proud of...couple of bucks for a nylon one in the Hillman drawers any better ACE. 1 1/8 id 

[peter lena 8,716]

@WHX??  love those pull out drawers , lots of help there , pete

[WHX?? 49,130]

9 minutes ago, peter lena said:

love those pull out drawers

Absolutely Pete... bigger stores can have many. 

[peter lena 8,716]

@WHX??  also like  contractor  bolt on electrical lugs , 3/8 base bolt , gives you very solid electrical  grounding , by passing a flimsy hook up point . like engine cooling tins , headlights , dielectric grease , solid , pete

[EchoBravo 11]

Thank you for the continued support everyone.  I replaced it with the trusty 11124 seal.  Should I have trouble slipping the hub back on?  It slides easy until the hole for the set screw hole gets to about the half way over the shaft key.  I filed on the key a little and the inside of the hub to make sure everything is smooth. It helped a little but it still stops at about the same spot.

 

Should it slip right on, or is it that tight, that it must take a few hits with a hammer/mallet?

Edited September 21 by EchoBravo

[ebinmaine 68,205]

3 minutes ago, EchoBravo said:

Should it slip right on, or is it that tight, that it must take a few hits with a hammer/mallet?

 

NEVER. EVER.  Hit tap contact whack smack anything to do with an axle on a Wheelhorse. 

In or out. 

That can damage or destroy internal parts. 

 

I've had to clean out or file all the various parts of axles, hubs keys etc. over the years. 

 

 

[EchoBravo 11]

That's what I thought.  I'll keep filing and find what it is catching on. Thanks. 

[Handy Don 12,436]

Try it without the key in place so you can spin the hub on the axle. Once you can get the hub on easily, take it off and do it with the key in place.