Can somebody provide me dimensions of a C series or 400/500 with a front end loader for trailering?

[417-8mule 18]

Hoping to pick up a C-175 with a FEL attachment by the end of this week. Does anyone have the overall length from ballast box to bucket? Need to make sure the trailer I have will be able to handle it. I know I’m good on weight, just need length. Thanks 

[ebinmaine 67,766]

A C Series is about  5 1/2 feet by itself. The loader adds 4 to 5 feet out front depending on model and bucket size. 

 

The ballast box.... maybe 2 feet more??

 

I'd want a 12 foot trailer. 

 

[417-8mule 18]

50 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

A C Series is about  5 1/2 feet by itself. The loader adds 4 to 5 feet out front depending on model and bucket size. 

 

The ballast box.... maybe 2 feet more??

 

I'd want a 12 foot trailer. 

 

I found an older post where a guy was using a 12’ trailer but it was for a d series I want to say. Was hoping to get by with my smaller utility. I measured my 417 and figured the C would be about the same at 5’6” like you said. Might have to get creative with the bucket curl or just rent a trailer. 

[ebinmaine 67,766]

16 minutes ago, 417-8mule said:

I found an older post where a guy was using a 12’ trailer but it was for a d series I want to say. Was hoping to get by with my smaller utility. I measured my 417 and figured the C would be about the same at 5’6” like you said. Might have to get creative with the bucket curl or just rent a trailer. 

 

 

On our front end loader the bucket curl doesn't gain or lose much.

 

It's extremely important to keep in mind that the length of the deck of the trailer isn't just about sizing for the tractor. It's also about weight distribution.

The trailer axle is going to be set somewhere between 60 and 70% back from the front.

I would absolutely not consider putting a tractor with a front end loader on a trailer that's less than 10 ft for any reason.

The total weight might  be okay, depending on the rating of the trailer. But the distribution by percentage could be problematic and downright dangerous.

[417-8mule 18]

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

On our front end loader the bucket curl doesn't gain or lose much.

 

It's extremely important to keep in mind that the length of the deck of the trailer isn't just about sizing for the tractor. It's also about weight distribution.

The trailer axle is going to be set somewhere between 60 and 70% back from the front.

I would absolutely not consider putting a tractor with a front end loader on a trailer that's less than 10 ft for any reason.

The total weight might  be okay, depending on the rating of the trailer. But the distribution by percentage could be problematic and downright dangerous.

 

Good point, been going over the spec of my trailer and will most likely just end up borrowing a buddy's or renting a larger trailer to get it home.  Good to know about the curl not gaining much, I did ask the seller to get me dimensions but figured someone on here might have them handy.

[953 nut 55,393]

When I picked up my loader unit I pulled the pins on the bucket, placed it on the front of the trailer and then backed the weight box over it. The tail end of a Wheel Horse is heavier than the front so this put the weight on the tongue of the trailer.

[417-8mule 18]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

When I picked up my loader unit I pulled the pins on the bucket, placed it on the front of the trailer and then backed the weight box over it. The tail end of a Wheel Horse is heavier than the front so this put the weight on the tongue of the trailer.

after looking around at rental options near me I think I might have to go this route and disassemble. Means a few trips but luckily it’s only about 30 min from me. Does the weight box drop easily as well with bolts to the subframe or is it welded?

[wallfish 17,023]

Lift the bucket high after backing it in, close the ramp, rest loader bucket on top of the ramp. 12 ft is better but you can get one on a 10 footer too. Used a 10 ft to take that backhoe loader tractor up to Maine for Eric.

You can also drive it in and set the bucket on the frame in front of the trailer bed.

Edited September 19 by wallfish

[417-8mule 18]

Ended up tossing the bucket in the back of the car and got the C175 in the trailer with the arms tied down. Just have to go back for the ballast box this weekend, was filled with concrete and didn’t want to throw out the back trying to lift it over the tailgate 

[ebinmaine 67,766]

2 minutes ago, 417-8mule said:

Ended up tossing the bucket in the back of the car and got the C175 in the trailer with the arms tied down. Just have to go back for the ballast box this weekend, was filled with concrete and didn’t want to throw out the back trying to lift it over the tailgate 

 

Pictures? 

We got Pictures??

 

Where's da pictures?

[417-8mule 18]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Pictures? 

We got Pictures??

 

Where's da pictures?

Will get some posted up when it’s light out and can get some decent ones 

[ebinmaine 67,766]

1 minute ago, 417-8mule said:

Will get some posted up when it’s light out and can get some decent ones 

 

 

Niiiiice

[Retired Wrencher 5,469]

@417-8mule Good luck with your new tractor. If you can become a supporter it is only $20 a year you can post all the picks you like. And full access to this site. 

[417-8mule 18]

Here’s a quick pic of the machine, planning to take the loader off and mount to my 417-8. The c-175 runs great but it’s obviously a series 1 kt17 and I’m not a huge fan of having the hydrostatic control on the same side as the loader controls 

[PWL216 889]

My 520 with the Thompson TC 10 bucket loader is almost exactly 8 feet from the front of the bucket to the back of the machine. That does not include a ballast box.

[417-8mule 18]

41 minutes ago, PWL216 said:

My 520 with the Thompson TC 10 bucket loader is almost exactly 8 feet from the front of the bucket to the back of the machine. That does not include a ballast box.

Thanks, it’s only right I answer my own question. This C-175 with loader (believe it’s a ARK 500 not entirely sure since stickers are faded) is 9’ even from rear of the tractor to front of the bucket. This does not include the ballast box. I’ll measure again tomorrow when I get it but I would guess with loader and ballast box it’s all of 10’. 

[Moparfanforever 854]

I tried using a loader on a gear drive tractor before, seems like you needed eight hands working all at once to use everything. 

 

Nice looking tractor and loader!!

 

[417-8mule 18]

8 minutes ago, Moparfanforever said:

I tried using a loader on a gear drive tractor before, seems like you needed eight hands working all at once to use everything. 

 

Nice looking tractor and loader!!

 

Ya I’d imagine it’ll be a little clunky and slow, but I like the idea of being able to stop with the foot clutch while operating the bucket. I’m more used to shuttle shift on JD but I’ll figure this out one way or the other. Either way excited to have it and put it to use around the property will definitely make life easier 

[Bill D 1,927]

4 hours ago, 417-8mule said:

Here’s a quick pic of the machine, planning to take the loader off and mount to my 417-8. The c-175 runs great but it’s obviously a series 1 kt17 and I’m not a huge fan of having the hydrostatic control on the same side as the loader controls 

I built a foot pedal control.  You can also buy one.  I saw that unit on Marketplace.  Great score.

[wallfish 17,023]

5 hours ago, 417-8mule said:

Ya I’d imagine it’ll be a little clunky and slow, but I like the idea of being able to stop with the foot clutch while operating the bucket. I’m more used to shuttle shift on JD but I’ll figure this out one way or the other. Either way excited to have it and put it to use around the property will definitely make life easier 

I had zero issues using the loader / hoe tractor which was a manual 416-8. Using a hydro would definitely need a foot control

[ebinmaine 67,766]

1 hour ago, wallfish said:

I had zero issues using the loader / hoe tractor which was a manual 416-8. Using a hydro would definitely need a foot control

 

 

Agreed.  

 

I operate hydros at work and both hydro and manuals at home.  

 

I've considered if a hydro would be good for the loader but I REALLY like having the clutch pedal to use a speed regulator.  

 

 

In my experience the controls and positions are absolutely a preference of the operator. 

Certain folks like certain hydro or machine controls certain ways and have uses for and against manual transmissions. 

 

All are correct..... for them.