Rockcrawler69 11 #27 Posted September 17 (edited) So my plan is to use this strictly for a 2 stage snowblower and the occasional garden rototiller, when I find one. Obviously my axle is shot. I’m wondering if something like this from A-Z will get me by or am I stuck replacing the axle? Edited September 17 by Rockcrawler69 Spelling error Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,162 #28 Posted September 17 3 hours ago, Rockcrawler69 said: Well Ed Kennell called it. 1 1/8 hub on the one inch axle. With the amount of movement in your video, that was a gimmi. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,162 #29 Posted September 17 4 hours ago, Rockcrawler69 said: So my plan is to use this strictly for a 2 stage snowblower and the occasional garden rototiller, when I find one. Obviously my axle is shot. I’m wondering if something like this from A-Z will get me by or am I stuck replacing the axle? I think you have an excellent chance using the A-Z collet hubs. You may need to move the hub inboard more than normal to make use of the better axle surface. Spacers could be used to move the wheel back out. The hub should span and strengthen the damager area of the hub. You could also weld up and hand grind file the damaged area. I have had success in rebuilding bad keyway 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,305 #30 Posted September 17 You need to replace the axle(s) and hub(s), the tapered hubs offered by A-Z won't have enough travel to clamp on your junk axle(s). The left side axle isn't too hard to replace, the right side is a bit more work. Axles on a 520H have no extra length for moving a hub, so that is not an option. Apparently the expert "mechanic" ran that thing with a missing key till it cut the axle down like it was in a lathe, pop that damaged seal out so you can measure the actual axle diameter, maybe he did swap the transmission but I doubt it. Makes me wonder what else the numbskull knackered. Just so you know, a hydro tractor is a very poor choice for rototilling, it is impossible to control the forward speed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,920 #31 Posted September 17 (edited) Not sure where you are in NY, but you might try looking online for a replacement transmission. There were some listed in the classified section awhile back. It might be easier than opening up that one and changing the axle. If you do decide to change the axle cleanliness is paramount. If you get dirt in that transmission you'll wipe out the hydro pump. Edited September 17 by Bill D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,162 #32 Posted September 17 5 hours ago, Bill D said: you might try looking online for a replacement transmission. This may be your best option. The cost of the the A-Z hubs or to rebuild your tranny with new axles, hubs bearings and seals will probably cost more than a used tranny. I would be leery buying one from an unknown source, but You could place an ad in our wanted classified section, or I am sure Lincoln at A-Z could ship one with hubs today. Buying a used one from a Red Square Supporting member or from A-Z is nearly a guarantee that you will be getting a good unit. BTW, I don't have an 1100 for sale, but I do test all the used hydros I buy by driving the pump with another tractor and testing the axle torque in both directions. I am not sure, but I suspect Lincoln does the same test on his hydros. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,162 #33 Posted September 17 7 hours ago, lynnmor said: Apparently the expert "mechanic" ran that thing with a missing key till it cut the axle down like it was in a lathe, pop that damaged seal out so you can measure the actual axle diameter, maybe he did swap the transmission but I doubt it. I gotta disagree Lynn. Looking at his axle picture, you can see the key is clearly in place and undamaged. You can also see the perfect axle gouge created by the locking screw that he kept tightening in a feeble attempt to hold the wheels on until he sold his screw up. The lock screws slipped and turned until the they contacted the axle metal that was supported by the key. I don't know if Eaton ever made a 1100 with 1" axles or if it is possible for 1" axles to be installed in an 1100, But I do think this PO probable replaced or rebuilt his bad 1100 with 1" axles and was too cheap to buy the correct 1" hubs. Then patched it together long enough to sell it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,995 #34 Posted September 17 (edited) That hub and axle are toast. Weld the hub on to the axle and run it like it's stolen, ( they already need to be changed anyway plus you can't kill anything more if it's already dead.) And in the meantime, find a replacement used trans so it can be swapped out once you find one and then done at your leisure. Edited September 17 by wallfish 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,217 #35 Posted September 17 9 hours ago, Bill D said: Not sure where you are in NY, but you might try looking online for a replacement transmission. There were some listed in the classified section awhile back. It might be easier than opening up that one and changing the axle. If you do decide to change the axle cleanliness is paramount. If you get dirt in that transmission you'll wipe out the hydro pump. I just recently extracted the hubs and axles/diff assembly from a 400 hour 518-H rear end. I suspect these are the same as the 520-H. If you decide to go with a repair vs. full replacement, drop me a PM. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rockcrawler69 11 #36 Posted September 18 Wow! Thanks everyone for the replies and ideas. I’ve got some homework and number crunching to do. I’ll check back in after I make up my mind and weigh my options… 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,920 #37 Posted September 19 (edited) Lots of parts tractors out there. I see a 314H on Craigslist in Maine that would have the transmission you need. There is also a 312H in Mexico NY that would have the transmission you need. The Eaton 1100 is the same across all hydro models that use it, the only exception is the 520HC, 418C and GT 1800/1848 which have different gearing for faster ground speed. Edited September 19 by Bill D 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill 633 845 #38 Posted September 20 FYI, I have a friend where the axle busted out at the wheel hub key. He removed the axle from the transmission, welded up the axle with a wet rag wrapped around the bearing hardened area, turned the axle in a lathe, and cut a new keyway 180 degrees from the original one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,815 #39 Posted September 20 I bought a 520 with the same issue Crawler. I had looked at replacement axles and they were out there. In the end I sold the deck and plow for more than what I had in it. Parted the rest out and motor was really good and it went in another 520 that had a blown engine so I really came out stinkin like a rose for a change. Right side axle was good yet and yours for a song if interested. On 9/17/2024 at 11:49 AM, wallfish said: Weld the hub on to the axle and run it like it's stolen @wallfish's idea is a really good one. Can always fix it proper later. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rockcrawler69 11 #40 Posted September 28 Well, after further investigation I stand corrected. Sorry Ed, I was wrong. It is a 1 1/8” axle and the hub just wore the snot out of it. 🙃. Got the right side hub off, everything looked good, put it back on, tightened it up and no more wobble. I’ve got a friend willing to tear into the it with me who says the machine is nice enough to fix it right so as of right now, going that route. It is half tempting to just weld it as Wallfish suggested… If we tear into it I’ll post some pix. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rockcrawler69 11 #41 Posted September 28 On 9/20/2024 at 1:37 PM, WHX?? said: I bought a 520 with the same issue Crawler. I had looked at replacement axles and they were out there. In the end I sold the deck and plow for more than what I had in it. Parted the rest out and motor was really good and it went in another 520 that had a blown engine so I really came out stinkin like a rose for a change. Right side axle was good yet and yours for a song if interested. @wallfish's idea is a really good one. Can always fix it proper later. Glad to hear WHX?? It’s nice when stuff goes the right way once in a while! Thanks for the offer but my right one ended up being good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,620 #42 Posted September 29 @Rockcrawler69 always interested in hub removal issues , personal experience , remove set screw / bolt , hole vertically up at 12 o'clock, KROIL PENETRANT , will get into just about anything. start this days out , rust runs out . as for that 2 stage blower , its the FUNCTIONAL MOVEMENT DETAILING , that makes the difference , picked up one that was solid neglect , every related , pulley , belt drive area , especially lubrication and related function , went from sled drag to smooth / easy . regularly hear screaming pto drives , trying to move the wrong lubrication / lack of any movement detailing . amazingly easy to correct that , but its not in the book . likE a BEARING PULLER , for hubs , strength against , strength , KROIL , its outa there . just my experience , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rockcrawler69 11 #43 Posted October 11 I lucked out and found some parts from a great guy in New Hampshire! I bought a hub, and the rear axles, no housing. I was only wanting the left axle and fortunately he offered to leave the two together for the price of the left side. Should have time to rebuild it in a couple of weeks. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites