Transmission gets stuck in two gears when driving it

[Scott from ontario 3]

Hello everyone any help is appreciated I have a 1963 953 wheel horse tractor that gets stuck in two gears as you are driving it when it does it it happens in first gear I’m thinking the shifter is bad at the ball end but I can’t find any parts for it in Ontario. I was thinking of building up the ball by welding but not sure what the best option would be. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041]

Welcome to Red Square.

Something you can try.

Suspect it happens when shifting from 1st or Reverse (one shift rail) to 2nd or 3rd (the other shift rail) or just the opposite.

When you come out of one gear pause in Neutral for a count of 5 before shifting to the next gear.

The shift pattern is like a sideways H. Say you go from 3rd to Neutral hold it there. Don't let go of the rear shift rail. Pause. Then let go of the rear rail and slide through neutral to pickup the front shift rail R & 1st.

Not necessary when shifting R to 1st, 1st to R or 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd.

Let us know what you find and will explain what is happening.

[Racinbob 11,077]

This is a common problem on the older transmissions. It's caused by the shift rails allowing it to find two gears the same time.  Basically the rails ride in blind holes and suction causes them to lag behind. Careful shifting as mentioned will minimize the issue. Wheel Horse knew of the problem and initially issued a service bulletin stating to switch to 40w oil. This was in hopes the thinner oil would minimize the suction. Very so-so results. In 1965 they came up with a solution. Shift rails with a deeper center (neutral) detent groove along with a longer (3/4" vs 11/16") stop pin. This would not allow the rails to move into a gear unless the other one was in neutral. The left rails are the newer type. Keep in mind that there are two types on the newer style. One as pictured with the grooves machined all the way around and the type with just the center groove ground deeper. Both work the same and since the rails don't rotate it doesn't matter. Note the installation exceptions. In order for this to be effective both rails must be replaced and a 3/4" stop pin installed. The detent balls and springs are the same. 

At this point they changed their specs back to the heavier gear oil but the 40w had made it's way into some owners manuals and didn't get changed making some people thing that's what should be used. In reality, it really doesn't matter. 40w will work fine but I prefer the 80w90 stuff. 

 

Edited September 4 by Racinbob

[Scott from ontario 3]

I’m guessing that the shift rails are not available anymore since parts are very hard to find for this tractor 

[953 nut 55,221]

As Bob @Racinbob said, the post 1965 shift rails were improved and they will fit the 953 transaxle. If you can find a used pair or a parts transmission that should solve the problem.     You can place a free wanted ad on this site.        https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/wanted/

[ri702bill 8,319]

The newer style shafts also have a flat on the rails to "vent" the trapped fluid and ease the suction.

 

Are you using 90-140 weight oil??? You may want to try 75-90 oil instead....

[WHX?? 48,815]

45 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

have a flat on the rails

I have ground down this flat on trannys that did not have it and modified the old style rails to match the new style.

[ri702bill 8,319]

2 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

I have ground down this flat on trannys that did not have it and modified the old style rails to match the new style.

Fun with Unidrives!!! 

[peter lena 8,625]

@ scott  from ontario  what does the oil look like ? shift boot torn / missing  ?  any discoloration  /  milky /  rusty , oil is not visible , just rusty crud ?  personally like a cutter / cleaner , after drainage , kerosene , hi mileage ATF  fluid , get some miles on it / time , so the chemical flinging / flushing effect helps the drainage . agree with @ri702bill  on the lighter  oil , personally like a climbing gear oil , for better  coverage , lucas has that . have cul de sacs  housing just up the road from me , excellent roads for  road testing and verifying  changes . always bring a bag of tools , aerosol  cleaner / lube , basic stuff , pete    

[peter lena 8,625]

@ri702bill  done a lot of that , road driving , stop / go  check on function , driving in every gear , always pick up on something else , then get after it . basically you are catching up on neglect , done this many times , also add my engine oil flush out to that , incredible flush out and refill change , for me . its  rotella  30 wt  and rislone zinc , really gets after engine varnish /  smokey starts , engine also runs smoother quieter , just my regular change over from its former life . like a seperate gallon of heavily treated gas , to fuel pump , drop carb bowl , fresh filters . might even have some penetrating oil patana recovery going on .  just talkin , pete

[Scott from ontario 3]

I called to see if the shift rails are available and they are not I’ll look on eBay might be on there

[Scott from ontario 3]

Would I just need the shift rails or would I need the shift forks also? 

[953 nut 55,221]

2 hours ago, Scott from ontario said:

Would I just need the shift rails or would I need the shift forks also? 

You won't know the answer to that question until you open up the transmission. I would suggest you not spend any money on parts until you know what is actually needed.

[Racinbob 11,077]

Like Richard said, get it opened up first. Make sure you know what you need. If it's just the rails the forks are identical and can be swapped.

[oliver2-44 9,746]

3 hours ago, Scott from ontario said:

I called to see if the shift rails are available and they are not I’ll look on eBay might be on there

Just grind the ones you have if the forks are good.  The grinding does not have to be perfect.  

 

[Pullstart 62,851]

29 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

Just grind the ones you have if the forks are good.  The grinding does not have to be perfect.  

 

Yeah that!  
 

 @Scott from ontario

[Racinbob 11,077]

Guys, just grinding the flat on the rails will help but it won't fix it. The neutral detent must have the upgrade as well as the stop pin. There's plenty of the upgraded rails out there so just get the right ones. Keep in mind the 2nd/3/rd and 1st/reverse rails are different but they are almost always sold as a pair. 

I wouldn't go through the trouble of opening it up unless you do it right.

Edited September 5 by Racinbob

[Lane Ranger 10,968]

11 hours ago, Racinbob said:

Guys, just grinding the flat on the rails will help but it won't fix it. The neutral detent must have the upgrade as well as the stop pin. There's plenty of the upgraded rails out there so just get the right ones. Keep in mind the 2nd/3/rd and 1st/reverse rails are different but they are almost always sold as a pair. 

I wouldn't go through the trouble of opening it up unless you do it right.

 

yes the detention pin, spring and balls are longer in the deeper half moon cut on the shift rails. 
 

And I might add that detention pin, spring, balls insertion is a very tricky maneuver!

 

I recall trying to do this with my dad and brother a dozen years ago on a 1054 tractor transmission.  The balls kept popping out when we tried to push the rails down into the transmission.  Finally, my mother came out and told us that we should use a bamboo chop stick to set those in and it worked like a charm!

 

 

[Scott from ontario 3]

The transmission for my 953 wheelhorse has the flat top shifting rails in it could that be why it gets stuck in two gears at the same time ? 

[Racinbob 11,077]

2 hours ago, Scott from ontario said:

The transmission for my 953 wheelhorse has the flat top shifting rails in it could that be why it gets stuck in two gears at the same time ? 

 

No. The flats help but don't solve the issue. See my post #3 ↑

[Scott from ontario 3]

Not sure if you can see in the picture but that is how the shift rails end up and it locks itself up in two gears 

[Racinbob 11,077]

It's hard to see but I'd say yup, locked in two gears. Use a screwdriver to line them up, reinstall the shifter and adjust. You'll be good to go........until the next time. I'd suggest doing the simple upgrade to really fix it.

[peter lena 8,625]

@Scott from ontario  ever drain / flush out  the "  lubricant "in that ?  done a number of  gear box basic services , initial  front end of tractor off ground , on stands , enhances drainage , kerosene  / fuel oil , hi mileage ATF  fluid , for a drive around / shift every gear , forward / back  , put some time on the lubrication flushing . would also think a lighter oil would be better , for slinging effect , change the shift boot . would also refill that with the shifter removed . sounds like a long over due service , good luck with it , pete  

[Scott from ontario 3]

Would I just need the new updated shifter rails or do I need the pin that is posted in the picture was also wondering if the ball on the end of the shifter would make a difference if it was worn down? 

[Racinbob 11,077]

11 minutes ago, Scott from ontario said:

Would I just need the new updated shifter rails or do I need the pin that is posted in the picture was also wondering if the ball on the end of the shifter would make a difference if it was worn down? 

Yes you'll need the updated rails with the deeper neutral detent. Don't be misled by the picture though. Some of the early upgraded rails had deeper neutral detents ground into them rather than going all the way around like the rails on the left. The difference in the two styles was simply a different manufacturing process. The detents don't need to go all the way around as the rails don't rotate. 

And yes, you'll need the longer stop pin (3/4") in order for the upgrade to be effective.

The worn ball on the shifter isn't good but doesn't cause the issue.

Edited September 22 by Racinbob