grinchsr 629 #1 Posted August 27 I am going to replace the connector and just use male/female connectors on the wires but I am looking for advice on which would be a good connector to use. I know it's been done before by a few members here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,171 #2 Posted August 27 (edited) I had a 520. I bought 2 4 way flat trailer connectors with the long pigtails. Cut the wires in the middle of them and made 4 long pigtails I connected one side of the connectors under the fuse block and moved the actual male/female connection to the other side of the tractor away from the battery fumes and exhaust heat. The original 9 pin only uses 8 holes. Edited August 27 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,330 #3 Posted August 27 I really question the need for a connector. I wonder how many times this connector is used during the life of a tractor. To replace that connector with another connector requires introducing two additional connections or splices. If I ever need to replace mine, I think I'll just cut it out and solder and shrink tube the wires together. Pretty easy to unsolder if I would ever need to remove the engine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,394 #4 Posted August 27 The nine pin is an Onan thing. The engine arrived at Wheel Horse with the nine pin in place and it save a few steps on the assembly line. Unless you plan to swap engines around there is no need for the connector. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,330 #5 Posted August 27 Maybe a bit off topic, but this reminds me of a problem I had when I bought a new Jeep Wagoneer back in the day. For no apparent reason, it had a habit of just shutting down. After jiggling a couple wires to get it started, I realized a six pin connector was the problem. I cut it out and soldered the wires. It never quit again. About a year later I got a recall from AMC to replace the connector. Seems the female sockets were brass and the male pins were aluminum causing the corrosion. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grinchsr 629 #6 Posted August 27 I have to wiggle the wire to get the battery to charge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,535 #7 Posted August 27 Most Wheel Horse things (electrical included) seem to have lasted more than 50 years. Newer things like the 9-pin connectors seem to have a life of maybe 30 years. However, in my case, being 74 years old, if I were to replace a 9-pin connector today with an original style, it should last until I'm 104. I don't think I'll care at that point. Replace it with another 9-pin Molex connector. 2 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,322 #8 Posted August 27 1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said: I really question the need for a connector. I wonder how many times this connector is used during the life of a tractor. To replace that connector with another connector requires introducing two additional connections or splices. If I ever need to replace mine, I think I'll just cut it out and solder and shrink tube the wires together. Pretty easy to unsolder if I would ever need to remove the engine. On two of my tractors I did just that. To swap the engine just remove the wires where they connect to the engine, there is no need to unsolder if the wires aren't trapped on the engine, there are a few that can be rerouted so they are not trapped. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grinchsr 629 #9 Posted August 27 Thanks for the input it sounds like tinning wires is the way I am going 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,520 #10 Posted August 27 2 hours ago, grinchsr said: I have to wiggle the wire to get the battery to charge ONAN........ Oh Man..... say no more !!!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,322 #11 Posted August 27 1 hour ago, johnnymag3 said: ONAN........ Oh Man..... say no more !!!!!! Onan didn't make or specify the wires. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,330 #12 Posted August 27 3 hours ago, grinchsr said: Thanks for the input it sounds like tinning wires is the way I am going Excellent, eliminate a questionable connector instead of adding two more connections. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,927 #13 Posted August 27 I'd use 4 and 5 pin Packard connectors. I also snake a wire thru the engine harness and run it directly from the rectifier to the battery positive on the starter. Add an extra fuse if you do this. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,171 #14 Posted August 27 Molex connectors are an issue with just about anything built that uses them. HVAC equipment have them every where and it's the first thing I check when something won't run. They belong in a circular file. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,520 #15 Posted August 28 (edited) but this part is........... The nine pin is an Onan thing. The engine arrived at Wheel Horse with the nine pin in place and it save a few steps on the assembly line. Unless you plan to swap engines around there is no need for the connector. Edited August 28 by johnnymag3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,322 #16 Posted August 28 1 hour ago, johnnymag3 said: but this part is........... The nine pin is an Onan thing. The engine arrived at Wheel Horse with the nine pin in place and it save a few steps on the assembly line. Unless you plan to swap engines around there is no need for the connector. I guess that Onan could have refused to install the connector that Wheel Horse specified and lost the business. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,100 #17 Posted August 28 On 8/27/2024 at 8:18 AM, grinchsr said: I have to wiggle the wire to get the battery to charge The early 520's had the charge wire go from the regulator directly to the battery wire on the starter solenoid with a 30 amp inline fuse. I don't know why the change to putting all the charge current through the 9 pin but I convert all of mine to the early style and have never had a 9 pin fail. I keep the 9 pin connector so I can swap engines between machines if need be. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,682 #18 Posted September 4 I soldered the power wire and the start wire left the rest in the 9 pin on my 520. Replaced all the rusted safety switches. Added an electric fuel pump it has given me and trouble The lights quit working but I quit before dark about 4:30 or 5:00. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites