Wild Bill 633 846 #26 Posted September 4 The SKF/CR CR7474 is a single lip seal. The CR7475 shown above is a double lip seal. I am not sure a double lip seal will solve your issue as the double lip is the lip to the left shown in the picture above. I would suggest using the CR7475 double lip seal along with a Speedi-Sleeve. The SKF/CR Speedi-Sleeve P/Ns for a 0.750" shaft are 99076 for standard and 99811 for the gold version. The gold version is for highly abrasive applications. FYI, the removable flange can be left intact. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy Gruetzmacher 3 #27 Posted September 7 My bad, I have been waiting for a response on the double lip seal, did not realize there was a page 2! How do I get to the pics u mention? I did try the double seal and u were right it still leaked. I am gonna try the speed sleeve and double lip seal on Monday. One thing I want to run by you is, the belt tension release lever does not have much travel to disengage. Now the previous retired WH dealer told me he could not find the correct belt but found one that would work. Could it be that the belt is a bit to short/tight tweaking the pump shaft just enough to make the seal leak? and is that also why when I engage the release lever it does not hardly move to tighten the belt? Would u know the correct belt length? And thanks again for all your help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill 633 846 #28 Posted September 8 On 9/6/2024 at 10:55 PM, Tracy Gruetzmacher said: How do I get to the pics u mention? I am referring to the picture of the SKF seal P/N 7475 posted on page 1 by @pfrederi. On 9/6/2024 at 10:55 PM, Tracy Gruetzmacher said: Could it be that the belt is a bit to short/tight tweaking the pump shaft just enough to make the seal leak? The pump shaft is supported by a bearing. If the bearing is bad then the movement of the shaft would cause the seal to fail. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy Gruetzmacher 3 #29 Posted September 8 Thanks for the info. I hope it is not the bearing, will know tomorrow nite after install speedi sleeve. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,739 #30 Posted September 8 Before you use the speedie sleeve grab the end of the splined shaft and try moving it up/down front/back ..push hard there should be no movement . If there is movement don't waste money on the speedie sleeve. I have several Sunstrands and never had a bearing issue. Doubt the slightly tight belt caused any bearing wear. drive belt # 7478 replaces # 4535 - (HB/5L x 84.22" or 5/8" x 84.22") Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy Gruetzmacher 3 #31 Posted September 17 Well I installed a speedy sleeve yesterday. Measured where it needed to be placed. Took awhile to get it tapped in there. Taped the splines, slid the double lip seal in tapped it in place. Put pulley and belt on thinking finally problem solved. Nope still drips at a steady rate. What else can it be? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,739 #32 Posted September 17 Was there any play in the shaft when yo tried to move up/down fore/aft??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy Gruetzmacher 3 #33 Posted September 17 Nope, I checked that several times. Is there anybody out there that I can ship the pump to for repair? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy Gruetzmacher 3 #34 Posted September 17 Ya know just thinking back to when I purchased it, the first time I looked at it after a short ride leak was worse than it is now. The owner who was a retired WH dealer said he would fix it and call me. So went back owner claims fixed and that he rode it for 1/2 hrs with no leak. I rode it again for 5 minutes no leaks so I bought it. Got home grandson rode it for 20 minutes and the leak came back. Now when I took the pulley off splines there was what looked like grey anti seize smeared on the shaft, the splines, the face of the seal and on pump housing. Now I am thinking the previous owner doctored it up somehow to stop the leak long enough for me to believe the leak was fixed. Could there be a crack in the housing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,739 #35 Posted September 17 All cleaned up can you trace where the leak starts any leakage around the outside of the seal? the case it self?? I put never seize on s[lines so I can take it off in the future with out a fight.not unusual to do that... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy Gruetzmacher 3 #36 Posted September 17 On the original 40 year old seal the oil was leaking out at bottom dead center. To nite I will clean it up, as u say, and take a closer look. I was just so let down last nite after the speedi sleeve let me down I just shut the light off and went in house for a cold beer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,739 #37 Posted September 17 Don't Blame you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy Gruetzmacher 3 #38 Posted September 18 Well I cleaned it up good, ran it, pulled pulley off quick and guess what? The housing is cracked at the 9 o'clock position and starting to Crack at the 3 o'clock position. So now I am looking for a pump for a C145 or thinking about parting it out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,739 #39 Posted September 18 The housing around the seal is pretty chewed up. Wonder if the seal casing itself was scored/damaged as you pressed it in. Might try a new seal but put some extra sealant on the outside of the seal body. I hate to recommend RTV in hydros but if you only use a little bit...Few buck for a new seal might be worth the attempt... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy Gruetzmacher 3 #40 Posted September 18 So you don't think that is a hairline crack at the 9 o'clock position? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill 633 846 #41 Posted September 19 (edited) 18 hours ago, Tracy Gruetzmacher said: So you don't think that is a hairline crack at the 9 o'clock position? Looks to me those are casting seam flash because they look to perfect to be cracks, exactly 180 degrees and straight. As @pfrederi, mentioned above, I would try another seal with a sealant/adhesive on the OD. Locktite makes a product for this application. I bought a used 4WD vehicle with a leaking front differential pinion seal. After seal removal, there was a tool removal dig mark in the bore from previous removal, the source of the leak not the seal. I used a Loctite product on the the seal OD to seal. I would contact a Loctite tech service for advice. Edited September 19 by Wild Bill 633 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy Gruetzmacher 3 #42 Posted September 20 U may be right on the flashing being 180 deg. I am gonna try another seal as was suggested. Still trying to find the special loctite though. Thanks for all the help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill 633 846 #43 Posted September 20 @Tracy Gruetzmacher Take a look at Loctite 518. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy Gruetzmacher 3 #44 Posted September 20 Loctite 444 and 411 mention gap fill. Am going to town today to get seal so will stop at few places and pick some brains. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy Gruetzmacher 3 #45 Posted September 30 Finally acquired a tube of 518 and so far so good. I ran tractor for 15 minutes and no leaks. Knock on wood! Will run some more with fingers crossed. Thanks 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
