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Maz91

Durability - “farm and implement” vs “stops rust”

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Maz91

Hey guys, sorry if this has been answered before but I’m having a hard time searching it because every post with the word “and” comes up. 
 

Do you guys have an opinion/consensus on the durability of rattle can rustoleum farm and implement paint vs “stops rust”? It seems ih red and regal red are pretty similar, but I’m wondering if one is accepted as better than the other for a worker tractor. Or is it just called farm and implement because of the color matching for all the manufacturers? 
 

I’m kind of inclined to use the farm and implement paint because that is the application, obviously. But what’s the point of an extra dollar per can if they’re the same paint. Sorry if this is an annoying question. 
 

also wouldn’t mind to see tractors in either color!

thanks

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ebinmaine

:popcorn:

 

 

Following to see what the answers are

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oliver2-44

Great question!

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squonk

Back in " The Day " Farm and Implement paint was a cheap Alkyd Enamel usually used on old equipment to get it through the auction. today who knows. The PO painted the hood of my Suburban with Rattle Can Farm and Imp paint from TSC. I painted part of the frame with Rustoleum Regal Red. I don't see a lot of difference in quality. 

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953 nut
6 hours ago, Maz91 said:

I’m having a hard time searching it because every post with the word “and” comes up.

If you do your search as a phrase in Quotation marks you come up with what you are looking for.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q="Farm and implement paint"&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

424987271_Screenshot(470).png.32e74441069f6e4f4b592ce9eba36eff.png

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Lee1977

 

i painted this 1971 Raider with Rustoleum Farm  Implement paint. Used Acetone thinner and Hardener with a FH gun. 

It'a lot better then Rustoleum spray cans. The main difference is the drys fast, it was painted last year so don't if it will hold up longer.

SAM-1826-2.jpg

 

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kpinnc

I've used both. The biggest difference performance-wise is that "farm implement" has a significantly higher gloss finish on the finished product. It also tends to dry a little slower. If this translates to a more durable finish, it's hard to tell. 

 

 

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squonk

If you want Rustoleum spray cans to dry fast, immediately after spraying the last color coat spray on a coat of Rustoleum Chrystal clear. then a 2nd coat of clear 15 min later. Paint will be dry enough to handle in a couple of hours.

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Maz91

You guys are the best. I appreciate all the info and the search tips! Curious to see if there are any more opinions. The IH red is definitely brighter than I had previously thought. 

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peter lena

@Maz91   personally  what I  regularly see is total neglect / abuse , so paint detailing  is on the other end of the  recovery  mode , anything I pick up , immediately  gets a  penetrating oil spray down , hot sun enhance oil coverage , absorbs into the  what used to be paint . let it sit days , then rub it out with an oiled cloth , no sandpaper , or paint removal anything . like saving that  what was paint base , for an oiled patina  look , brought back a lot of  neglected horse paint , would rather get after , the mechanicals / electrical  issues , buy the way , the recovered paint , looks deep / solid in color . buffed out easily using a 6" electric palm buffer , cleaner wax . looks period correct , pete

 

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BBQVultureWings

  Implement paint is really Hard once it cures. I have painted many a boat trailer with it & it is pretty tough stuff. surface prep is key no matter what you use. I prefer to use POR15 as it is really glossy & Extremely Hard. It can go right over rust too  but I prefer to treat the metal as best I can as the stuff is really expensive. The other thing I really like about POR15 is that you cann put just about anything over it. I use 2 coats to protect the metal then rattle can whatever color I want over top of it. Haven't had any trouble with rust on anything I have done this way.    There are other products that will bond with rust out there but the really good 1s are almost cost prohibitive at $100.00 ++ per gallon. I have used 2 of them & ya need to pour out what ya need into a separate container because ANY amount of rust will cause the Whole Can to "kick" If you are brushing it on which I prefer to do as it makes a can of POR15 last a good long time as long as you don't shake it. Stir it only :soapbox: read the lable as it says, do Not shake.... Stir it Only!!

I liked the idea above (from peter lena) about oiling the paint for that "old period correct look" & there's Nothing wrong with that idea. If you're Dead set on shiny new & durable I would use POR15 as it has never let me down. It';s not cheap either.

That's my 2 cents beause I went with POR15 & there's only 2 cents left......  & ya know what they say about opinions......

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