ebinmaine 67,766 #1 Posted August 21 Who uses a battery cut out? Where do you mount it? Why did you use it? Advantages, disadvantages? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry M-(Moderator) 2,175 #2 Posted August 21 Do you mean a type of disconnect switch to isolate the battery? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,329 #3 Posted August 21 I always have them on my boat batteries, but never on my tractors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,752 #4 Posted August 21 I recently put a battery isolator on my 1991 S-10 pickup. $7 from Ebay. Did this because there was a constant drain on the battery from somewere that I could not locate. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,321 #5 Posted August 21 1 hour ago, daveoman1966 said: I recently put a battery isolator on my 1991 S-10 pickup. $7 from Ebay. Did this because there was a constant drain on the battery from somewere that I could not locate. I put one of them on my van for the same reason, but it turned out to be a piece of junk. I had to take it apart to get a reliable disconnect. If you get one, be sure to test it and send it back it not satisfied. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,752 #6 Posted August 21 58 minutes ago, lynnmor said: I put one of them on my van for the same reason, but it turned out to be a piece of junk. I had to take it apart to get a reliable disconnect. If you get one, be sure to test it and send it back it not satisfied. Mine works fine---no issues at all. Actually, I bought two of them...one for my winter car storage. Satisfied with the Ebay purchase. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,682 #7 Posted August 22 (edited) It's connected to the wench as it will draw power. It's just a cheap Ebay switch 100 amp. I had been disconnecting the ground cable to the wench.Third picture you can remove the key to lock it. I don't even take the switch key out of my tractors. I was going to mount it on the dash the hour meter didn't work, But it a smaller size little less then the 1 1/8" hole it's mounted in. Edited August 22 by Lee1977 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,321 #8 Posted August 22 1 hour ago, daveoman1966 said: Mine works fine---no issues at all. Actually, I bought two of them...one for my winter car storage. Satisfied with the Ebay purchase. There are many different companies that make similar models, it is luck of the draw if you get a good one. I just wanted to caution buyers so they give the switch a good testing before depending on it. Mine came fro eBay as well and it had good reviews but I have to wonder if people even know how they work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,387 #9 Posted August 22 9 hours ago, lynnmor said: There are many different companies that make similar models, it is luck of the draw if you get a good one That answer has a pun in it - the word "draw" !! Having worked at a facility that made quality Automotive switches and devices, the key to having a switch like that survive is the amount of current it sees while on and the amount of parasitic draw it has to isolate. That is based on its construction - size & material of the leads & contacts, spring load on the contacts and the material the housing is made of. Another factor is if it is sealed against the weather for water intrusion. If any of them are marginal, the switch will heat up and ultimately fail. Our switches were built to survive a 150% consistant max load for extended time - got to see the testing in action during one annual product line re-validation quality run. Kind of like watching paint dry - no issues. BUT, I did get to see the thermal meltdown of switches of the same rating from both domestic and offshore competitors for the same test... Try not to set the Test Lab on fire..... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,682 #10 Posted August 22 The luck of the draw seams to be about on every thing these days. Who are were it was made don't make much difference, company's get bought out Qualite is lost by new owners wanting to more money off the same product. It's very rare that products get improved. My old Wheel Horse dealer Haywood Richmond had a saying " The road to Hell is paved with plastic." He had a Hardware but his main two products were Wheel Horses and GE appliances. .. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,321 #11 Posted August 22 1 hour ago, ri702bill said: That answer has a pun in it - the word "draw" !! Having worked at a facility that made quality Automotive switches and devices, the key to having a switch like that survive is the amount of current it sees while on and the amount of parasitic draw it has to isolate. That is based on its construction - size & material of the leads & contacts, spring load on the contacts and the material the housing is made of. Another factor is if it is sealed against the weather for water intrusion. If any of them are marginal, the switch will heat up and ultimately fail. Our switches were built to survive a 150% consistant max load for extended time - got to see the testing in action during one annual product line re-validation quality run. Kind of like watching paint dry - no issues. BUT, I did get to see the thermal meltdown of switches of the same rating from both domestic and offshore competitors for the same test... Try not to set the Test Lab on fire..... Nothing to do with draw, the stupid thing was built so sloppy that the contacts would move about making contact with the knob in any position. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry M-(Moderator) 2,175 #12 Posted August 22 Not the same as what you guys are showing..but I was thinking about something like this for my 1960s wheel horse tractors as a quick disconnect while displaying at different shows and such.. I had people turn keys and lights on when I’m not around … 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,766 #13 Posted August 22 20 minutes ago, Terry M said: Not the same as what you guys are showing..but I was thinking about something like this for my 1960s wheel horse tractors Seems like this would be a more visible and definite on/off 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry M-(Moderator) 2,175 #14 Posted August 22 4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Seems like this would be a more visible and definite on/off For sure…just not sure about the looks. I might just order one and try it out.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,618 #15 Posted August 22 12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Seems like this would be a more visible and definite on/off I was thinking same thing... even I would know when it was on/off... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,387 #16 Posted August 22 From "Young Frankenstien"??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,787 #17 Posted August 23 5 hours ago, ri702bill said: From "Young Frankenstien"??? Y’all joke about this type Frankenstein switch. When I first started working around the dams they still had some of their original 1938 DC switchgear. 125v DC with 50 amp large Frankenstein switches like this. Scary to operate without todays arc flash rated suits. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,766 #18 Posted August 23 5 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: Scary to operate Agreed. I'd use one on 12V without hesitation but 120+ is a different game. Even the 40V we had in high school electricity class would often spark these. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
