lynnmor 7,303 #76 Posted August 15 5 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: Pulling/changing valves is really not hard. Sometimes the little cone shaped valve keepers can be a little bit of a pain. Have a good small engine valve compress helps. Most of the newer one are junk. A little bit of thick grease can be used to keep them in place while operating the spring compressor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #77 Posted August 15 (edited) 9 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: Pulling/changing valves is really not hard. Sometimes the little cone shaped valve keepers can be a little bit of a pain. Have a good small engine valve compress helps. Most of the newer one are junk. I just ordered the valve spring compressor from Lisle, hoping it’s ok for a few jobs, not expecting much. I did a google on the reviews of it and it seemed to be the best. I had two types, years ago, hand lapping tool as well as compound, I loaned them out and they never found there way back… and I can’t remember who I loaned them to either. Edited August 15 by fourwheelhorseman 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,726 #78 Posted August 15 (edited) The Lisle one is OK. The problem I have with it is the lower interchangeable arm gradually slips with that one bolt. Seem I have to loosen the bolt, squareit up and retighten after each spring. Edited August 15 by oliver2-44 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #79 Posted August 18 I’m still waiting on the valves that I ordered, as many of you know I’ve been looking for a replacement muffler for my 8speed 160 and since my new automatic needs a muffler as well, I’ve really been hitting the beat for to see what’s out there. Well I scored two the other day. They were both cracked at the point where the pipe meets the muffler body, easy fix, now both are welded up and are usable. I’ve already installed one of the mufflers on my 8 speed and it made a noticeable audible, improvement. I also scored a new hood for the automatic as well as plastic choke handle, front axle spindles and a throttle cable for my charger 10 ( that will be my next project). I’ve shown pictures of what one of them looked like before my hack welding job..I will not show after.. lol .. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,401 #80 Posted August 18 1 hour ago, fourwheelhorseman said: I’ve shown pictures of what one of them looked like before my hack welding job..I will not show after.. lol .. Old saying about metal repair. The grinder you are makes you the welder you ain't. I'm OK with the fact that I can't often make a pretty weld. I have a 4" grinder for looks. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #81 Posted August 18 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Old saying about metal repair. The grinder you are makes you the welder you ain't. I'm OK with the fact that I can't often make a pretty weld. I have a 4" grinder for looks. Never heard that quote before, but I agree! I just did t take the time to grind my welding imperfections, as long as it holds I’m happy with! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #82 Posted August 19 Well, it seems that everyone who I contacted to get a replacement t exhaust valve for my k 341 has to either back order them or can’t get them at all.. or their 120$. I’ve tried 3 vendors so far, last ditch effort is eBay believe it or not. It was 19.99 and seems like it’s in stock.. so we will see. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,356 #83 Posted August 19 @fourwheelhorseman worse comes to worse, I have the valves that came out of a 341 that blew a rod. If they help you, you can have them. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorEd 633 #84 Posted August 19 (edited) https://isavetractors.com/exhaust-valve-for-kohler-k321-k341-k532-k582-engine/ @fourwheelhorseman I’ve bought many parts from IST and would do so again. Edited August 19 by TractorEd Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #85 Posted August 20 4 hours ago, rjg854 said: @fourwheelhorseman worse comes to worse, I have the valves that came out of a 341 that blew a rod. If they help you, you can have them. Hey thanks for that! I’ve ordered from two different vendors… so we will see what that produces. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #86 Posted August 20 18 hours ago, TractorEd said: https://isavetractors.com/exhaust-valve-for-kohler-k321-k341-k532-k582-engine/ @fourwheelhorseman I’ve bought many parts from IST and would do so again. Thanks, I’ve ordered from them as well many times, but that valve is on back order.. as is the order from another well known dealer for the same valve.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #87 Posted August 20 20 hours ago, rjg854 said: @fourwheelhorseman worse comes to worse, I have the valves that came out of a 341 that blew a rod. If they help you, you can have them. I sent you a PM. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #88 Posted August 24 Well I ended up replacing the exhaust valve with a new one, new headgasket, new valve cover gaskets, new fuel pump gasket and she runs like a champ now!! Plenty of power! Honestly I figured out the real culprit as to why it ran with lack of power… while I was re-installing the carburetor, I noticed the butterfly on the carb is backwards for a different model, so when the choke is off from on the dash.. it was actually on… it ran.. but terribly. I adjusted the carb and flipped the choke open, it ran perfectly! So took the cable off the choke and have to manually turn the choke on and off. I either need the correct choke shaft and butterfly or I have another option, the tractor came with the right carb, I can’t tell if it was the original carb or not, but the choke shaft is correct. I’ve never been able to remove the screws that hold the butterfly on either the choke or throttle shaft, the screws always break. soooo in short, the tractor ran poorly from the blown head gasket, carb choke always on and carb adjusted incorrectly.. or correct enough to make it run with the choke on. I don’t think the valve was burnt enough to cause it run bad, it seated correctly.. but it wasn’t going to last much longer. Anyhow, in search of the correct choke shaft for this tractor, butterfly and small screws so I can hook up the choke properly. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,401 #89 Posted August 25 16 hours ago, fourwheelhorseman said: Anyhow, in search of the correct choke shaft for this tractor, butterfly and small screws so I can hook up the choke properly. Show some pics if the carb you gave that's oriented correctly. As a service to Redsquare SUPPORTERS I rebuild carbs including removal and replacement of those screws. Likely I can help you out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #90 Posted August 25 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Show some pics if the carb you gave that's oriented correctly. As a service to Redsquare SUPPORTERS I rebuild carbs including removal and replacement of those screws. Likely I can help you out. I will take some photos today when I get home from church.. thanks for that! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #91 Posted August 25 Here’s what I have, the tab is bent on the choke rod linkage flange, most likely the previous owner did that so the that cable would push it unobstructed? Its backwards from what I need… Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #92 Posted August 25 Just now, fourwheelhorseman said: Here’s what I have, the tab is bent on the choke rod linkage flange, most likely the previous owner did that so the that cable would push it unobstructed? Its backwards from what I need… And the photo below is what I actually need.. this photo is taken from my other 160, 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,700 #93 Posted August 25 (edited) I have a couple WHs that have the choke operating backwards (Lever up run, down choke). On a couple I put little label's 0n the instrument panel. On another it is an anti theft device Easier and cheaper than getting a replacement choke shaft and putting int in... Edited August 25 by pfrederi 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,401 #94 Posted August 25 43 minutes ago, fourwheelhorseman said: Here’s what I have, the tab is bent on the choke rod linkage flange, most likely the previous owner did that so the that cable would push it unobstructed? Its backwards from what I need… Yeah that's one o' them El cheapo chinesium crabulatirs. I refuse to use them anymore. If you have an original Kohler carb and want it fixed up send me a PM. Be happy to help. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #95 Posted August 25 (edited) Actually I have one soaking in some chem dip as of yesterday, I had thought tho.. if I can’t get it figured out to try and change the el cheapo choke bracket. it actually runs pretty good with the china carb… oddly enough. Edited August 25 by fourwheelhorseman 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #96 Posted August 25 74630001585__F9E229D1-82AA-4E07-B004-37098348D3A4.MOV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #97 Posted August 25 That’s without the choke on and cold… Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,401 #98 Posted August 25 1 hour ago, fourwheelhorseman said: Actually I have one soaking in some chem dip as of yesterday, I had thought tho.. if I can’t get it figured out to try and change the el cheapo choke bracket. it actually runs pretty good with the china carb… oddly enough. It'll run fine... until it doesn't. Just keep a close watch on the upper throttle shaft opening. That's where I've seen two go bad recently. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,303 #99 Posted August 25 2 hours ago, fourwheelhorseman said: Here’s what I have, the tab is bent on the choke rod linkage flange, most likely the previous owner did that so the that cable would push it unobstructed? Its backwards from what I need… It appears that you have a small hole to the left and right of the shaft, couldn't you choose the one that works correctly? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #100 Posted August 28 Well, I rebuilt/ cleaned the original carb and it runs perfect now.. the only real issue I have with this machine is it is still blowing 30 amp fuses. Makes no sense to me, is it possible that the stator is bad behind the flywheel? I’m going to do some more investigating when I get home from work today. I may pull the cover and pull flywheel to check for a bare wire, I may also eliminate the ammeter temporarily as well, one thing at a time though. I’m going to look closely at the connection where the stator plug connects to the regulator, the original meltdown occurred at the ignition switch, so the switch got replaced and the wiring harness was replaced as well, the only thing I havnt messed with is the stator and the ammeter, I have an extra from Ebmaine so I can replace my old one with that one. Anyhow, what’s your thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites