fourwheelhorseman 279 #26 Posted August 8 (edited) 6 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Click here I’m one step ahead of ya.. 😉 I asked then started checking into how to become a supporting member ( which I should have done anyhow) thanks guys once again! Edited August 8 by fourwheelhorseman 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #27 Posted August 8 So here’s some more pictures, the engine is a 1976, I’m not sure of the tractor itself. I’m in the process of rewiring it, when I get my volt meter and new ignition switch I’ll go at it till I’m done. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,412 #28 Posted August 8 20 minutes ago, fourwheelhorseman said: How do I become a supporting member? And that’s the plug that goes to my ignition switch. I should have stated that originally. Your name looks great in red!! That plug itself looks OK but the wiring colors, I'm not so sure. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,412 #29 Posted August 8 12 minutes ago, fourwheelhorseman said: So here’s some more pictures, the engine is a 1976, I’m not sure of the tractor itself. I can't see that ID number very well but if you search that at the top of the page you may find more info. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #30 Posted August 8 Here’s the number, 16KS04-21941 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #31 Posted August 8 So I found from my search that’s it’s a 1976 c160 auto, so now I need a simple, descent wiring harness diagram for it. I’m pretty sure I have an idea of how it gets rewired, but a good diagram would for sure help. Google Search shows a few, but am unsure of the model/year of the models covered. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,412 #32 Posted August 8 @gwest_ca may be able to supply an original type diagram. When I rewire mine the safeties (if there were any) get left out. We have no inexperienced operators or animals or kids around. @953 nut was nice enough to start a thread about simple wiring a few years ago. I'll link that next. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,412 #33 Posted August 8 I've been using the second schematic to wire my own mid 70s C series. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #34 Posted August 8 45 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I've been using the second schematic to wire my own mid 70s C series. Thanks for that! Wiring is not my favorite task,although I’ve wired up a few of the horses in my day, but it’s been 20 years since the last one. My memory’s a little foggy. These little cheat sheets help out alot! yep, the second will be the one I use as well. Thanks again, kary 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #35 Posted August 8 Ok, last question, I just got my new volt meter and ignition switch, when I get home I’m going wire the old girl up. That volt meter gets wired up different than an ammeter does, doesn’t it go with an ignition wire? So then what should I do with the ammeter wires? Am I overthinking this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,412 #36 Posted August 8 46 minutes ago, fourwheelhorseman said: Am I overthinking this? No. It's good to ask questions. 47 minutes ago, fourwheelhorseman said: That volt meter gets wired up different than an ammeter does, doesn’t it go with an ignition wire? So then what should I do with the ammeter wires? On a battery points ignition I run the positive wire for the voltmeter to the positive side of the coil. Voltmeter negative direct to battery ground. On the ammeter... are you eliminating it? Of so, just connect the two ammeter wires to each other. That just closes the circuit from battery to ignition switch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,210 #37 Posted August 8 (edited) 52 minutes ago, fourwheelhorseman said: Ok, last question, I just got my new volt meter and ignition switch, when I get home I’m going wire the old girl up. That volt meter gets wired up different than an ammeter does, doesn’t it go with an ignition wire? So then what should I do with the ammeter wires? Am I overthinking this? If you want to cut the ammeter out of the system but leave the meter in place, you can jumper the two ammeter terminals with a short 12ga wire or else put both wires onto one terminal). If you want the meter gone, then do the equivalent by splicing the two wires together or replacing the two wires with one wire from the same endpoints. @ebinmaine beat me by .0005 seconds. -- silver for me! Edited August 8 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #38 Posted August 8 Yes I’m replacing the ammeter with a volt meter, so I’ll wire it positive to coil and negative to battery Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #39 Posted August 8 So, in looking at my volt meter, the middle blade is hot and the bolt is the ground I assume? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,412 #40 Posted August 8 1 minute ago, fourwheelhorseman said: So, in looking at my volt meter, the middle blade is hot and the bolt is the ground I assume? The lower bolt has a ground symbol next to it so that's correct. The upper blade though... Do you have an instruction sheet? I see a "B" and an "I" next to the terminals. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #41 Posted August 9 So there is no directions AND it’s a cheap Chinese peice of crap… ya buy Chinese junk ya get Chinese junk!!! I spent 2 hours fighting that volt meter, it fit perfect in the hole, when it came with these cheap aluminum thumb screws that would never tightened up, so I replaced them some correct threaded nuts. When I tightened the nuts, the one tightened perfectly, the other stripped and then stripped the post inside the housing…it was stuck inside the hole until i managed to retrieve it…. errggh!!!!!! So I’m going to use my old ammeter after all. I am however going to put a fuse block in between my battery and the ignition switch to protect the wiring this time. I did however manage to change out the ignition switch that seems fine. I’ll work on it tomorrow, my problem is TIME, I simply don’t have the time I used to for these hobby/ projects! Even on the weekends things just seem to pop up out of no where and there goes my whole day!!! ok enough venting!! I’ll post tomorrow… thanks for all the replies and help! Beleive it or not this is hobby is great therapy!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,412 #42 Posted August 9 1 minute ago, fourwheelhorseman said: great therapy Absolutely agreed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,210 #43 Posted August 9 I suspect you have an illuminated gauge. The separate B and T terminals are likely for the metering and for the internal lamp. But which is which? BeaTs me. 😬 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #44 Posted August 10 Well finally progress! I was able to get to the shop today and rewire it. I suspect my voltage rectifier was bad, it initially ran good and then blew a 25 amp fuse. So I disconnected my ammeter and ran it, still blew fuse, so then I disconected my rectifier and no blowing fuses, the plug to the rectifier looks a little rough, it’s been hot before. Then I hooked up a spare rectifier, grounded it and plugged it in. It charged but felt warm to the touch, I then disconnected the ammeter and it feels normal now. I think I need an ammeter.. anyone got a spare they’d sell me? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,412 #45 Posted August 10 5 minutes ago, fourwheelhorseman said: Well finally progress! I was able to get to the shop today and rewire it. I suspect my voltage rectifier was bad, it initially ran good and then blew a 25 amp fuse. So I disconnected my ammeter and ran it, still blew fuse, so then I disconected my rectifier and no blowing fuses, the plug to the rectifier looks a little rough, it’s been hot before. Then I hooked up a spare rectifier, grounded it and plugged it in. It charged but felt warm to the touch, I then disconnected the ammeter and it feels normal now. I think I need an ammeter.. anyone got a spare they’d sell me? I change most of my ammeters to voltmeters. PM me with your address. I'll send 1 or 2. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,210 #46 Posted August 10 16 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: change most of my ammeters to voltmeters. Hey, please put one next to the filter bowl headed to North Berwick! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #47 Posted August 10 (edited) 53 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I change most of my ammeters to voltmeters. PM me with your address. I'll send 1 or 2. PM sent with along with a thank you!! Edited August 10 by fourwheelhorseman Fat fingers! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fourwheelhorseman 279 #48 Posted August 10 Here’s a video I made. it seems it has a blown head gasket and the governor seems like it needs adjusted. It does mow very nice. The rectifier plug seems to be a little warm to the touch after it has ran for a bit, I THINK that’s normal as I checked my 160 8 speed and it feels the same. Where doe you guys get your head gaskets? I’m ordering one today. Thanks for all your help!! 74501167196__5DDCCEA9-E371-4E23-8EB7-2E55C8D66A9B.MOV 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,412 #49 Posted August 10 29 minutes ago, fourwheelhorseman said: get your head gaskets? @Achto had a particular fleeebay store he uses. I believe the biggest thing is to get one with a reinforcement around the cylinder. A fire ring. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,412 #50 Posted August 10 While that head gasket is on order you'll want to get the head removed and start hand planing it. Decarbon the combustion chamber too. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites