Condor 9 #1 Posted August 3 Difficulty in removing axle on sundstrand 90-1140 C160 for seal replacement any comments welcomed. Also what lubricant for replacement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #2 Posted August 3 Removing the axle isn't necessary to change seals. Can you post pics and describe what you've done so far? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Condor 9 #3 Posted August 3 I just purchased the seals for the hydro for the moment 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Condor 9 #4 Posted August 3 Am I in the wrong forum? I thought I posted in transmissions axles Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #5 Posted August 3 1 minute ago, Condor said: Am I in the wrong forum? I thought I posted in transmissions axles Yep you did. No worries. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #6 Posted August 3 The big thing on replacing seals will be removing the wheel hubs. DO NOT USE A 3 JAW PULLER. There are good threads on here about creating a good usable hub puller. I'll be removing hubs today. I can post pics too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,479 #7 Posted August 3 (edited) Are you having difficulty removing the axle HUB?? The hub has to come off, the axle can stay put. DO check for excessive play in the outer bearing - if it is bad, the Unidrive comes out and apart... at that point just replacing the seal is a waste of time & money... Edited August 3 by ri702bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #8 Posted August 3 Click on the link below then scroll down a bit. There's a few good pullers pictured. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #9 Posted August 3 51 minutes ago, Condor said: what lubricant for replacement Just the regular oil is fine. 4 minutes ago, ri702bill said: DO check for excessive play in the outer bearing This is important. The seals certainly can be aged and dry out. However.... a common cause for a bad seal is a bad bearing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #10 Posted August 3 @Condor Here's a few pics of the puller setup I use. This is a home shop made piece. (Not my build). These are 7/16-20 x 3" grade 8 bolts. I put 7/16 lugnuts and washers on to help spread the pulling strain/pressure. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Condor 9 #11 Posted August 3 2 hours ago, ri702bill said: Are you having difficulty removing the axle HUB?? The hub has to come off, the axle can stay put. DO check for excessive play in the outer bearing - if it is bad, the Unidrive comes out and apart... at that point just replacing the seal is a waste of time & money... All above information is very helpful, will do all evaluation on info provided thanks all! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,841 #12 Posted August 3 For oil replacment, you need to see what oil you have in there. If your old oil is red, ATF. If it is golden, 10W-30. You want to use the same kind of oil that is in there. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,479 #13 Posted August 3 Is that "weld" or rabbit droppings holding the nut in place??? I too can lay a bead with the worst of them....!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 2,171 #14 Posted August 3 19 minutes ago, ri702bill said: Is that "weld" or rabbit droppings holding the nut in place??? I too can lay a bead with the worst of them....!! JB weld 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,479 #15 Posted August 3 At least it is in compression instead of tension. It just needs to stand up to the rotary force !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #16 Posted August 3 1 hour ago, ri702bill said: Is that "weld" That's a series of six large welds. I'd bet it would pull a fair amount before I ever think of replacement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,847 #17 Posted August 3 (edited) 2 hours ago, ri702bill said: Is that "weld" or rabbit droppings holding the nut in place??? I too can lay a bead with the worst of them....!! That’s a new one. EB certainly brings out the “fertilizer” in these conversations Of course. I don’t have any room to comment on the weld “Burn them in hot and deep so it doesn’t matter what they look like on top” Edited August 3 by oliver2-44 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #18 Posted August 3 And there not my welds..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,291 #19 Posted August 3 (edited) Comment on Eric's puller. If building your own puller, try to use fine thread on the force screw. It will pull slower with more pulling force. Kind of like low gear on a tractor. Edited August 3 by squonk 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #20 Posted August 3 2 minutes ago, squonk said: Comment on Eric's puller. If building your own puller, try to use fine thread on the force screw. It will pull slower with more pulling force. Kind of like low gear on a tractor. Agreed. That was discussed when I bought it. This is the nut & bolt handy to the builder when it was put together. It's treated me well as is. Given the strength of the setup I have now I'll likely be using it for years. I'm known to be a tad bit rough on tools so If I ever do break or damage the threads I'll go to a fine thread. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,856 #21 Posted August 4 Make sure yo have drained the transmission before you try pulling the seal Yours is hydro and there are few qts of fluid that will come running out when you pull the seal... 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites