Belt to small?

[Ed Kennell 37,361]

12 minutes ago, Mr guisepp said:

is this the tab you mean?

Yes.    The top loop of the belt must be above this tab like it is shown in my video.

[Ed Kennell 37,361]

53 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

You see the silver wear stripe on your guard?

That's the part that keeps the belt in check when disengaged by the clutch.  

 

 

This pic is a bit confusing Eric.      The belt guard is upside down.    We are looking at the top flange of the guard.     That wear mark disturbs me a bit.  May be the front end of the guard it too low and not supporting the bottom properly.    Can the front of the guard be positioned higher?

[Mr guisepp 11]

9 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Yes.    The top loop of the belt must be above this tab like it is shown in my video.

I'll try it but it seems the  belt will squeel like hell at least... as it is very snug to the main motor pully 

[Mr guisepp 11]

19 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

   If the belt guide on the idler pulley is adjustable, it may be out of position.     Or I have seen the belts incorrectly installed under the stationary belt stop tab.

 

 

why is your guide mounted on tractor and not guard?

Edited August 4 by Mr guisepp

[Ed Kennell 37,361]

1 hour ago, Mr guisepp said:

why is your guide mounted on tractor and not guard?

This is a design change that Wheel Horse did for the 300,400, and 500 series tractors to improve the belt stopping for easier gear shifting.

[Mr guisepp 11]

Just got home from Church....will attempt to reinstall belt cover in proper fashion...I assume I didn't previously. 

[Mr guisepp 11]

 

complete failure...I made sure the belt was in proper position. all it did was jump the breaking pully and shred the belt. I'm convinced the belt is just too tight at 82"...I ordered a 82 1/2" to see if that works.

[Mr guisepp 11]

no the belt was not above the breaking tab when I started it...thats the after photo.

[Ed Kennell 37,361]

On 8/3/2024 at 9:14 AM, Mr guisepp said:

.  It worked perfectly fine before I swapped belt. ( the new belt matches old belt)

 

Can you put the old belt back on and try it?     If the new belt matches the old belt they both should work.

[Mr guisepp 11]

15 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Can you put the old belt back on and try it?     If the new belt matches the old belt they both should work.

I t won't survive...

[rmaynard 15,277]

If you are going to do another video, please do it without the belt guard on. With the shredding that is going on, you have to have something installed wrong. Viewing it without the belt guard is the only way we will see what's happening. 

 

Also, show us an inside view of the belt guard.

Edited August 5 by rmaynard

[Mr guisepp 11]

1 minute ago, rmaynard said:

If you are going to do another video, please do it without the belt guard on. With the shredding that is going on, you have to have something installed wrong. Viewing it without the belt guard is the only way we will see what's happening. 

I idid..see above

[rmaynard 15,277]

Sorry, I missed the other vid's. When the clutch is released, and the belt is engaged, this part should be parallel to the belt an not touching it as shown below.

 

[Mr guisepp 11]

1 minute ago, rmaynard said:

Sorry, I missed the other vid's. When the clutch is released, and the belt is engaged, this part should be parallel to the belt an not touching it as shown below.

 

yes I'm clear on that..and that was the case...my theory is the belt is to snug to main engine pully and these tabs cannot over come the torque and cause the belt to slip as it's supposed too...most of the shredding was due to it jumping the clutch pully slot...im waiting on a slightly larger belt to test my theory

[rmaynard 15,277]

Also, you have a definite wear area. You need to find what it is that is touching the belt at that exact area.

 

 

There should be nothing that touches the belt on the top side that would cut it only in that area. A longer belt should not make any difference. That is a mechanical abrasion that can only come from metal contacting the belt. 

Edited August 5 by rmaynard

[Ed Kennell 37,361]

 

This hard wear area on the corner of the smaller angle could be causing the belt cover to shred.   Can you bend this corner up or raise the rear of the guard so the belt does not rub the top of the guard

[Mr guisepp 11]

9 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Also, you have a definite wear area. You need to find what it is that is touching the belt at that exact area.

 

 

There should be nothing that touches the belt on the top side that would cut it only in that area. A longer belt should not make any difference. That is a mechanical abrasion that can only come from metal contacting the belt. 

That was caused AFTER it jumped the guide. Let me test my theory and I'll get back to the thread....thanks for your help

[Mr guisepp 11]

the whole break clutch system on this  is shite engineering imo

[rmaynard 15,277]

6 minutes ago, Mr guisepp said:

the whole break clutch system on this  is shite engineering imo

Adjusted properly, that clutch/brake assembly has functioned well for over 60 years. I have a 1961 701 that believe it or not, still has it's original belt. Just sayin' 

[Mr guisepp 11]

the guides are fixed mount ( unless bending counts) I'll bet they used thicker better steel in 61. I bought this used this spring and I'm jest getting to know it...the belt was already cracked when I bought it. and I'll bet it was stretched a bit. Hence my theory. 

Edited August 5 by Mr guisepp
clarify

[Ed Kennell 37,361]

One other potential problem that can cause poor clutching.

 

There is a 1/8" roll pin that fixes the clutch lever to the left end of the clutch cross shaft.   I have found these pins sheared causing the lever to slip on the shaft and preventing the idler pulley from moving completely forward.      It may not be your problem, but it is easy to check by putting a scribe line across the end of the shaft and lever.  Then look for movement when depressing the clutch pedal.     If the idler pulley is not coming forward and down enough to pinch the belt between the two tabs, the belt will continue to rotate and will actuall be wearing on the pulley tab as shown in your video with the belt guard off.

[squonk 40,699]

47 minutes ago, Mr guisepp said:

the guides are fixed mount ( unless bending counts) I'll bet they used thicker better steel in 61. I bought this used this spring and I'm jest getting to know it...the belt was already cracked when I bought it. and I'll bet it was stretched a bit. Hence my theory. 

Belts don't " stretch" more than a few millimeters at best. The sides wear down causing the belt to fit deeper into the pulleys giving the "appearance " of a longer belt

[Mr guisepp 11]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Belts don't " stretch" more than a few millimeters at best. The sides wear down causing the belt to fit deeper into the pulleys giving the "appearance " of a longer belt

a broke in belt will slip easier

[Mr guisepp 11]

the whole premise is to get the belt to slip...if the belt is too tight regardless of reason the belt will not disengage and breaks and clutch  will not work. I think this belt is made not to slip at all hense all the blue coating shredding...just my theory

[rmaynard 15,277]

OEM belt are fabric covered to assist in the proper functioning of the clutch.