New purchase

[Lagersolut 648]

8 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

I replace the valve and rubber donut on most new to me tractors. 

 

I also run all new fuel line and filter  - last 416-8 barn find sat for a long time - ran for just a few seconds at purchase verify engine was solid - Ethanol breaks down rubber last thing you need is all those particulates getting to the carb ruining your restore project at run time .

[smitty316 24]

Has anyone used this aftermarket clutch disk?  Or are they just junk? It's just $50.00 vs $160.00.

 

Thanks, Smitty

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387215843707?_nkw=wheelhorse+pto+clutch+disk&itmmeta=01J59BN8HZJYZ403TP7YG3V3CV&hash=item5a27dce17b:g:Nn0AAOSwHU1mmZSM&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnXOZeL0BdQx2jCA8wSCCp8Fu%2FZH64BduBsoOV6S6D0I7h4MzxjwL93gxu3knvTbzhpJ9QXQ8ngyQAM0tV4yngeZ8S2NcZ3ViNbkJypSNwkE%2BRPt2tQZTJY3SSU6k%2BV%2BVSGi%2BGQ6nAVtWtR9NzpZ3VrDYo5i6WNmqeyEo7UkgrESrOLmwhas2TAmoJHhU69Zj8H0M9Gw2G7rJLs77Qy5cm7taNtg6QUi0eU23d27vrI6wFLlHH2b9sDDEpkY5t%2FS40ZDpucEdUDrqisi0BSnarKOWRNlJbNC2TGBEkMK1Zqaw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMjInVq6pk

[lynnmor 7,302]

6 minutes ago, smitty316 said:

Has anyone used this aftermarket clutch disk?  Or are they just junk? It's just $50.00 vs $160.00.

 

Thanks, Smitty

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387215843707?_nkw=wheelhorse+pto+clutch+disk&itmmeta=01J59BN8HZJYZ403TP7YG3V3CV&hash=item5a27dce17b:g:Nn0AAOSwHU1mmZSM&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnXOZeL0BdQx2jCA8wSCCp8Fu%2FZH64BduBsoOV6S6D0I7h4MzxjwL93gxu3knvTbzhpJ9QXQ8ngyQAM0tV4yngeZ8S2NcZ3ViNbkJypSNwkE%2BRPt2tQZTJY3SSU6k%2BV%2BVSGi%2BGQ6nAVtWtR9NzpZ3VrDYo5i6WNmqeyEo7UkgrESrOLmwhas2TAmoJHhU69Zj8H0M9Gw2G7rJLs77Qy5cm7taNtg6QUi0eU23d27vrI6wFLlHH2b9sDDEpkY5t%2FS40ZDpucEdUDrqisi0BSnarKOWRNlJbNC2TGBEkMK1Zqaw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMjInVq6pk

What is the worst that can happen?

[smitty316 24]

I'm getting ready to replace one of the rear axle seals that's leaking. I have know idea what happened to this old girl, but when I drained the gear oil a bunch of water came out first. Could that be from years of condensation?? It's either that or it got flooded at some point. The gear oil is a thick rusty color. I've run two quarts of 10W-30 through it to flush it out before I put new 90 weight in it. The axle bearing seems tight enough so hopefully the bearings in it aren't damaged from any rust, but I'd appreciate any thoughts on this.

 

Thanks, Smitty

[smitty316 24]

Also, Pete included a link to buy a "packing removal tool". I'm considering buying one, but I hate to spend the money if there's another good option for getting the old axle seal out. I've done this once before on a 312-8, but it came out in pieces and I kept thinking there must be a better way.

 

Thanks, Smitty

[smitty316 24]

The more I think about it the more I think that the water in the transmission probably came from it sitting outside in the rain for a while. I can see how rainwater could get in around the shifter at the top of the case.  I'll look and see if a boot shows up on the parts diagram for this. One sure would have helped in this case.

 

Thanks, Smitty

[oliver2-44 9,661]

All of the WH gear drive transmission left the factory with a boot. 
The boot was gone on my 1057 but the old powder too a piece of oil bottle plastic, mage a tiny X hole and said it Dow the shaft. Transmission oil looked great and it had been sitting out in the weather long enough to be growing moss. 

[lynnmor 7,302]

13 hours ago, smitty316 said:

The more I think about it the more I think that the water in the transmission probably came from it sitting outside in the rain for a while. I can see how rainwater could get in around the shifter at the top of the case.  I'll look and see if a boot shows up on the parts diagram for this. One sure would have helped in this case.

 

Thanks, Smitty

You're getting it figured out.

 

Flush that transmission with diesel fuel by driving it around slowly and then draining, lather, rinse and repeat.

 

Check the wheel bearings by jacking up a wheel and see how much play can be felt up and down and front to back, there should be very little.  In and out play is OK.

 

You don't need to buy a special tool to remove the seals, some have drilled a hole and run in a screw for something to pry on.  Others have ground an old screwdriver to chisel in and pry.  Just don't nick the axle or damage the bore.

[smitty316 24]

Thanks Lynnmor. That's helpful information.

 

Smitty

[smitty316 24]

Well, It looks like I have to pull the transmission apart to change the axle seal. I ordered what seemed to be the correct seal from PartsTree, but I can see that it's made to go in from the outside. I ordered the part for a 31-16k802, but I'll have to go back and take a look. Also, any suggestions for getting a stuck woodruf key out? I keep adding Kroil, but no luck yet. I guess it'll be a good excuse to see what's going on inside this thing.

 

Thanks, Smitty

[lynnmor 7,302]

Yes, the seal is easier to install with the axle removed and they do press in from the outside.  Many on here, including myself, have been able to pry out the old seal with the axle in place.  To install the new seal the hub can be used as a slide hammer to bump it in.

 

To remove the woodruff key, use a copper, aluminum or brass punch and tap the inboard end of the key down which will raise the outboard end.  Once the outboard end is up a bit, pry or punch it up till it is out.  The idea of using soft metal punches is to prevent causing damage to the key and causing even more issues.

 

It appears that you might have the 1" axles opposed to the 1-1/8" so that seal may be more difficult to come out, I never did a 1" axle.

Edited August 18 by lynnmor

[smitty316 24]

Lynnmor, Thanks, I just measured the axle and it is 1 1/2". The O.D. of my new seal is 1 5/8' , but the bore in the case looks to be about 1 7/16". So this is the wrong seal.

[smitty316 24]

Here's a picture of the numbers on the casing. I'd like to find a service manual for this so I can get the right seal and figure this out.

 

Thanks, Smitty

[smitty316 24]

Okay, I just looked up this seal again on PartsTree and ordered what looks like the correct seal. The first seal has a metal flange around it that I can see wont fit into the bore. The new one doesn't seem to have this metal flange on it and looks like it should work, at least from what I can tell from looking at their picture. We'll see.

 

I'd still like to find a service manual for this though.

 

Thanks, Smitty

[Bill D 1,900]

Axle seal should be SKF 11050.  At the beginning of the transmission section there is a thread listing all the seals.  I get mine thru Rock Auto.

[smitty316 24]

Thanks Bill D, Here's a picture of the one that I just ordered. It's not the same number that you gave me.

 

It looks like this one is all rubber so I guess I just pick at it until I get it all out?

 

Thanks, Smitty

[smitty316 24]

Good news is that I got the seal out, but news is that I dinged the outer part of the bearing while doing this. The first picture shows the dent from my awl. I guess It'll be ok???

[smitty316 24]

The picture makes it look like there's a mark on the axle too, but that's just a reflection. The axle is undamaged.

[adsm08 2,011]

1 hour ago, smitty316 said:

Good news is that I got the seal out, but news is that I dinged the outer part of the bearing while doing this. The first picture shows the dent from my awl. I guess It'll be ok???

 

The bearing should be fine.

 

There is an input shaft bearing on Focus transmissions that I do worse than that to all the time and they never seem to fail over it.

[smitty316 24]

Thanks adsm08, My thought is that since it's the end of the needle bearings it shouldn't be a problem. I still hate doing this kind of screw up.

[smitty316 24]

I put in a new rear axle seal in my 416-8, drove it around a bit and it's still leaking. There is a small amount of play in the axle bearing, but not much. With the wheel on I might be able to move the wheel up and down 1/8". I could see that this might wear a seal out eventually, but it doesn't seem like it would leak right off from this. Or am I wrong?  My thought is that I damaged the seal when putting it in. I used a small piece of wood to tap it into place. I might have tapped too much and distorted it. Any thoughts?

 

Thanks, Smitty

[lynnmor 7,302]

4 minutes ago, smitty316 said:

I put in a new rear axle seal in my 416-8, drove it around a bit and it's still leaking. There is a small amount of play in the axle bearing, but not much. With the wheel on I might be able to move the wheel up and down 1/8". I could see that this might wear a seal out eventually, but it doesn't seem like it would leak right off from this. Or am I wrong?  My thought is that I damaged the seal when putting it in. I used a small piece of wood to tap it into place. I might have tapped too much and distorted it. Any thoughts?

 

Thanks, Smitty

Way, WAY too much play, 1/8" in and out is OK but you should have almost nothing up and down.  New axle bearing(s) and likely axle(s) are needed.

[smitty316 24]

Thanks Lynnmor, That's pretty bad news. I guess that means a total tear down? I was looking for a service manual for the 416-8 transmission in the manuals, but couldn't find one. Do you know if there's one available?

 

Thanks, Smitty

 

[953 nut 55,005]

Here is a post done by @stevasaurus for rebuilding the eight speed. Here is a list of manuals for Wheel Horse transmissions, pick yours out and download it.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/category/23-manual/

 

[lynnmor 7,302]

2 hours ago, smitty316 said:

Thanks Lynnmor, That's pretty bad news. I guess that means a total tear down? I was looking for a service manual for the 416-8 transmission in the manuals, but couldn't find one. Do you know if there's one available?

 

Thanks, Smitty

 

Looks like the guys got you covered.  The transmission isn't as difficult as it looks, take your time and ask questions before making mistakes.  Look in our Vendors section when you have a parts list.