smitty316 24 #101 Posted September 25 This isn't a good picture, but I came up with this shade tree method to hold it in place so I could put enough pressure on it. I couldn't figure out a way to get it in my vice. This did put a small crimp in it so if I had to do it again I'd add something to more evenly distribute the pressure and the fulcrum point. I have it back on and it seems to work ok. Thanks, Smitty 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smitty316 24 #102 Posted September 25 It's hard to see in the picture, but I welded a small length of 1/8' flat iron across the end of the pipe to keep it from spreading open when I torqued on the lift arm. Then I had to cut off that flat iron piece to get it out of the pipe. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smitty316 24 #103 Posted September 29 (edited) The transmission seems to be working well so now I'm looking at the engine. Is this enough blow by to justify a rebuild? I did clean the breather and it didn't look too bad. It will put out some blackish smoke when I rev it, but no blue smoke like I'd expect to see with worn rings. Thanks, Smitty IMG_2588(3).MOV Edited September 29 by smitty316 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smitty316 24 #104 Posted September 29 Also, When I had the breather off I found these pieces of plastic in the lifter cavity. I have know idea where they might be from. Any thoughts? Thanks, Smitty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,305 #105 Posted September 29 A significant pulse can be expected from the crankcase while running. As the piston moves up and down the volume of air below it changes causing the pulse you are seeing. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smitty316 24 #106 Posted October 10 Hi, The tractor's working well and I have it cleaned up. I just drug the deck outside today to dump all the junk out of it. It's been sitting outside for a long time so the pulleys look pretty rough. I can't find any numbers on it anywhere, but maybe these two pictures will give someone enough information to help me out. I haven't taken one off yet. The tractor is a 31-16K802 Thanks, Smitty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,217 #107 Posted October 10 Since your tractor is a 1986 model it is very likely that this is your mower deck. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smitty316 24 #109 Posted October 13 (edited) Hi Guys, I've been working on my deck for this 31-16k802. I need to replace one of the side pulleys. It's listed as 110146. What I've found on line is 5/8" I.D. X 4 3/4" O.D. The side pulleys on mine are 3 3/8" O.D. Did someone change them or am I looking at the wrong part? I could use some help finding the correct pulley. I believe it's the 42" deck. The belt was super tight so I don't know if it's the correct belt either. Thanks, Smitty Edited October 15 by smitty316 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smitty316 24 #110 Posted October 26 Hi, Is it possible to press the bearings out of these pulleys? It looks like the pulleys are sold with the bearing already in them. Thanks, Smitty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,743 #111 Posted October 27 (edited) On 10/26/2024 at 5:22 PM, smitty316 said: Hi, Is it possible to press the bearings out of these pulleys? It looks like the pulleys are sold with the bearing already in them. Thanks, Smitty You can drill the spot weld out on the stamped sheet metal pulleys and replace the bearing. Then bolt it back together with little Allen head screws with lock nuts or locktite. There are some older cast iron mule drive pulleys that you can press the pulley out off Edited October 28 by oliver2-44 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smitty316 24 #112 Posted October 27 I put on my new PTO clutch disk today. When I started to snug it down the half moon pieces cracked. What did I do wrong here? Thanks, Smitty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smitty316 24 #113 Posted October 27 Should I put washers behind the retainers to get them out closer to the groove so they don't distort this way? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 457 #114 Posted October 28 On 10/26/2024 at 10:41 PM, oliver2-44 said: You can drill the spot weld out on the stamped sheet metal pulleys and replace the bearing. Then bolt it back together with little Allen head screws with lock nuts or locktite. There are some older cast iron mule drive pulleys that you can press the pulley out off b Pulleys can be had pretty cheap from the bay. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites