how do you fix worn down steering spindalls

[Keaton 437]

I am working on a springfeild and she spindall is pretty bad, almost worn down 1/4 of a inch in a spot, how do you guys fix them, weld and grind? I cant get new ones for it they were a company for 9 years then ended, so I want to know what you guys do to fix yours without buying new ones, thanks-Keaton

Edited July 29 by Keaton
misspelled title

[wallfish 17,023]

Yes, weld to build it back up, grind off the majority of the weld protruding out but finish it with a file so it's smooth and somewhat more accurate.

For a trailer queen that isn't going to see very much driving, JB Weld could also work instead of welding and finished off the same way.

[Handy Don 12,281]

11 minutes ago, wallfish said:

es, weld to build it back up, grind off the majority of the weld protruding out but finish it with a file so it's smooth and somewhat more accurate.

Agree with this with added notes:

 

If the wear is on the wheel axle part of the spindle and the wheel is using bushings instead of ball bearings, then JB is just not the right answer at all. If you have ball bearings, then barely adequate. JB (or other epoxies) are hard but easily worn in places with intense friction and spindle axles have a LOT of friction.

 

If the wear is on the part that pivots within the front axle, again, welding is the way--JB is just not going to hold up for long.

 

Also, if there has been wear on the spindle, there has likely also been wear on the opposite part--wheel bushings or bearings, or the front axle. Be sure to look and consider  

[Keaton 437]

@Handy Don it does have bearings but they are original 1964 I believe so they barley turn or did not turn at all, normally I have one of my dads employees weld them cause I cannot weld and he is a former bridge welder thats what he did for a living, and he has done many spindalls for me, I'm Shure he would be up to the challenge. and this will not a trailer queen, for being this unknown of a tractor I will drive it around so everyone can see it and it will be a 4h project so I have it all documented of what I have done to it, thanks a lot

[Keaton 437]

thats the worst of the two it is supposed to be 1/2 and I will get the wheel bearings then have them welded

Edited July 29 by Keaton

[Handy Don 12,281]

2 minutes ago, Keaton said:

 

Oh yeah. Time to offer the welder some reciprocal favors for fixing you up.

And get new bearings for the wheels!

 

What was the clamp for?

[lynnmor 7,321]

Looks like a rather simple part to make new.

[Handy Don 12,281]

43 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Looks like a rather simple part to make new.

Very true for someone with the right tools and knowledge.

 

@Keaton, how are the spindles held into the front axle?

[Keaton 437]

@Handy Don the sprindalls are  held on by codder pins

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

What was the clamp for?

it was because there  was not a washer welded back there for a wheel stop, its that clamp then a washer for like a backing, I was cleaning the bearing off to find a part number, it said freeway Cleveland Ohio, I looked it up and their still in business I need to double check but I thnk their 1/2 spindalls, I can get them out easey, I'm goign to get bearings first to reference how much for the guy to grind

[Keaton 437]

1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

Looks like a rather simple part to make new.

I could but think I'll just weld it

[Keaton 437]

I went out and took calipers and measured it and it was 1/2 an inch and 50 thou I belive that is  right half of a half of a 10th of a inch I believe if that's what is on callipers, I found the company and I'll try to contact them to see if they still make it

Edited July 29 by Keaton

[Handy Don 12,281]

2 hours ago, Keaton said:

I went out and took calipers and measured it and it was 1/2 an inch and 50 thou I belive that is  right half of a half of a 10th of a inch I believe if that's what is on callipers, I found the company and I'll try to contact them to see if they still make it

Caliper is definitely a good idea.

For what it’s worth, the ordinary steel rod that the company likely used to make the spindles would have a tolerance today about ±0.003" - ±0.007" (depending on processing). It’s possible, but unlikely, that they intended 0.050" over. Rust? Corrosion? Deformation? Any of these could be messing with your measurement.

Let us know what you hear from the manufacturer!

Another alternative repair would be to “sleeve” the wheel axle portion of the existingspindle up to ⅝” or even ¾” diameter (filling the low spots inside the sleeve with JB would be be a decent adhesive) and then use wheel bearings with a larger diameter bore. You’ve already recognized that you need something to prevent the inner race of the wheel bearing from riding against the curve of the spindle. I’ve seen washers held with both roll pins and welding.

[ri702bill 8,387]

My son is the TIG welder in the family.... You get a faster build up of material with a wire feed welder, but..... easy to get too much.

The idea is to "Capture" the inner ball bearing race on the spindle to immobilize it. The OE was allowed to spin, possible seize and the damage done.

Tig with a copper-tungsten filler rod builds nicely, and allows for hand filing - like this one... nowhere as worn as yours...

 

 

[953 nut 55,394]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

“sleeve” the wheel axle portion of the existingspindle up to ⅝” or even ¾” diameter (filling the low spots inside the sleeve with JB would be be a decent adhesive) and then use wheel bearings with a larger diameter bore.

@Handy Don has the right idea,  McMaster-Carr can fix you up with mechanical tubing which is like a piece of pipe with very exacting dimensions. You will have a selection of materials to use.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/mechanical-tubing/shape~round-tube/

[Keaton 437]

I need new bearings first once I get thoesi will get it welded