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WHX??

Wrong 30 Weight??

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WHX??

Bought this a while back for use in the herd. Thought is was just regular 30 weight but went to dump some in a push mower oil change for a customer & noticed it was clear. 

Never saw this before but got me wondering if it's suitable for use in our engines. 

Might have to zoom in on the fine print. 

Note it says nothing about being used as an engine oil. 

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kpinnc

Wow. SAE 30 should be well, SAE 30! 

 

...But that's just strange. :confusion-scratchheadblue:

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ebinmaine

I've been given something similar when hunting Compressor oil. 

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rmaynard

I have been using SAE 30W, non-detergent oil in all of my non-filtered Kohler's since 1993. 

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squonk

SAE 30 just means it's weight (viscosity)  at 32° or higher. Got to look at the API rating on the bottle if any. I wouldn't use it. Kohler says to use Detergent oil in all of their engines. I bet Briggs does too. Non detergent oil should be used in non combustion applications like compressors and pumps.

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Bill D

That's air compressor oil.  Don't use it in an engine.

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ri702bill
21 minutes ago, Bill D said:

That's air compressor oil.  Don't use it in an engine.

Bill D is correct - what you have there is NOT suitable for use in gasoline engines - it is mineral oil base. It is a hydraulic oil.  Note that it does NOT list an API rating found on motor oil (API SL for instance)

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Pullstart
9 hours ago, rmaynard said:

I have been using SAE 30W, non-detergent oil in all of my non-filtered Kohler's since 1993. 


Right, wrong or indifferent, I’ve used it too.  Not all the time, but I’ve made the executive decision that most likely I’ll live to talk about it.

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

@WHX??That oil is a special formula exclusively for Tecumseh engines only. Because they all end up being an air compressors. LOL.

 

@Wild Bill 633 has now put that on the interwebs and we all know whatever's on the interwebs is true. 

 

 

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squonk
25 minutes ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

@WHX??That oil is a special formula exclusively for Tecumseh engines only. Because they all end up being air compressors. LOL.

Couldn't have said it any better! 

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953 nut

This chart gives a quick glance at oil ratings done by the API. Anything above SA would be fine for our splash lubricated engines but I don't think I would use anyt5hing without a "S" or "C" rating.

What Is API In Engine Oil?

 

The American Petroleum Institute (API) is the authority when it comes to setting standards for motor oils used in gasoline and diesel engines. Gasoline engines are classified under Category S, indicating "Spark Ignition", while diesel engines fall under Category C, indicating "Compression Ignition". Each category is followed by a letter, reflecting the oil's technological advancements.

For gasoline engines, API specifications range from SA to SH, with higher letters representing newer technologies. Oils with specifications from SA to SH are typically suitable for engines manufactured before 1995. However, it's important to note that higher specification oils can be used in place of lower ones. For example, an oil with specification SP can be used for engines requiring API SN, SM, SL, and SJ.

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squonk

I "made" 4 Tecky air compressors from 1966 to 1977 by using non-detergent oil. The old small engine shop owner Mikey Iocco sold me the oil and didn't understand why We were going thru engines on the 604! :wacko:

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ebinmaine
9 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

This chart gives a quick glance at oil ratings done by the API.

 

ANYTHING ABOVE SA

 

would be fine for our splash lubricated engines but I don't think I would use anyt5hing without a "S" or "C" rating.

 

 

Also of note, SJ rating should be considered the upper limit on usable oil in flat tappet engines like most of ours are. 

Anything with a Letter higher than "J" will have reduced ZDDP. 

 

Does it really matter when we're changing the oil every 25 to 50 hours?  Probably not.... 

But the small engine rated oils are readily available and often less expensive than modern gasoline rated oils so why not?

 

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ri702bill
47 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Also of note, SJ rating should be considered the upper limit on usable oil in flat tappet engines like most of ours are. 

Anything with a Letter higher than "J" will have reduced ZDDP. 

 

And that is why I use Shell Rotella in all my outdoor 4 cycle engines....

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, ri702bill said:

 

And that is why I use Shell Rotella in all my outdoor 4 cycle engines....

 

A good oil but overpriced around here. 

The Kinetix I use is $2 per Qt less and shipped to my door. 

 

Like RV Antifreeze or windshield washer fluid. 

Regional prices vary a lot. 

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WHX??
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

...But that's just strange. :confusion-scratchheadblue:

That's what I thought KP

11 hours ago, squonk said:

API rating on the bottle

 

5 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Note that it does NOT list an API rating found on motor oil (API SL for instance)

No  it does not... no wonder it was cheaper.

1 hour ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

@WHX??That oil is a special formula exclusively for Tecumseh engines only. Because they all end up being air compressors. LOL.

How did you know it is a tecky.... :lol:

If it was my motor and an old smoker I might use it. Not in a customers returned with a snapped rod... out it comes and use it in the log splitter or compressors or Squeaky Pete door hinges. . 

Edited by WHX??
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WHX??

Say what you want about techys but this runs pretty good for a big box :chores-mowlawn:

Carb bowl nut holes plugged and for 14 clams on fleabay for a new one wasn't even gonna get cleaned. 

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JoeM

The question is "what really works as far as oils go?"

We know ZDDP helps with anti wear on flat tappets, but how much is enough? Is more better? IDK

Old school thinkers gravitate in the more is better zone. 

With good maintenance on air cooled engines, I have seen some well into the 2000 hour range and running strong. No special oils etc. 

I would think modern engine oils contain plenty of anti wear science and will preform. That thinking is confirmed by engine builders using "break in oils" in place of modern high tech synthetic oils. 

Two other bigger players in my mind is heat and contamination. 

Having an oil that transfers heat is a good choice.

Changing the oil before contamination increases to a destructive level is a best practice. 

 

Uncle JIM...save that oil for the compressor or sewing machine! It is not the right stuff. 

 

 

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lynnmor
4 minutes ago, JoeM said:

The question is "what really works as far as oils go?"

We know ZDDP helps with anti wear on flat tappets, but how much is enough? Is more better? IDK

Old school thinkers gravitate in the more is better zone. 

With good maintenance on air cooled engines, I have seen some well into the 2000 hour range and running strong. No special oils etc. 

 

 

There are videos and studies that show the correct amount of ZDDP and more is not better.  That is why @ebinmaine and I buy oil with the correct amount.  Kohler makes the brand I use.  Wear is wear and it happens throughout the engine, the thing is that flat tappet cams can fail catastrophically when the protective film of lubricant is lost.

 

Engines with 2000 hours likely had a good life running for years with a good amount of ZDDP.

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WHX??
39 minutes ago, JoeM said:

is "what really works as far as oils go?"

Right?!?... and how often does the average change the oil on a cheap aluminum bore big box mower no less than even check it. Now throw in new crap that doesn't have a drain plug. 

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oliver2-44

In the mid-late 90's the ISO 64 oil we used in Hydro Turbine and Generator Bearings changed to a Base II oil.  That was the first I learned of Base I,II,II and IIII oil.

Base refers to how the crude oil feedstock is processed at the refinery.  I used this Machinery Lubrication website a lot back in my work days.  https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups

Base II oil is clearer, so it has less "Dino" dandruff left in it. 

But as other have said that oil if for hydraulics' or a compressor.

20240721_183205.jpg

 

 

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JoeM
14 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I buy oil with the correct amount

that and you change your oils on time and keep the engines clean. 

 

what is the zinc and phosphors levels in the Kohler oils? MSDS says 9-10%. 1000 ppm. ?? Good number from what I read. 

 

5 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

doesn't have a drain plug

Just crazy. 

 

Jim I thinks you poured from the wrong jug, looks like shine :wacko:

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Skwerl58

I picked up some of the Walmart branded Super Tech ND sae 30  oil a few of years ago. It stated it was sae ND lubricating oil, and in fine print stated " not for use in automotive gasoline engines". I filled my old oil cans with it for lubing squeaks and wear areas on my mowers and stuff. I was going to use it in an oil change but went with Rotella T1 30w and have been using Rotella since. 

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WHX??
22 minutes ago, JoeM said:

 

Just crazy. 

It runs out when it's laying upside down on the scrap pile... :lol:

Tecky had a drain plug... plastic...go figure...

27 minutes ago, JoeM said:

Jim I thinks you poured from the wrong jug, looks like shine :wacko:

Nope ... tasted it.... :D

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