ebinmaine 67,567 #1 Posted July 21 This is on a 1974 C Series. B Series and many older ones would be the same. If you look at the rod just to the left of the carpet that's on the floor behind it you'll see a thin spot. It isn't much. But a little wear in the frame & a little wear on the rod is enough to need fixin'... I'm figuring I could potentially drill the frame to 5/8" and use a bushing around this rod to help tighten things up. How can I get a drill bit started if I wanted to cross drill the shaft to add another couple roll pins in strategic places? Thoughts comments questions suggestions? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,141 #2 Posted July 21 (edited) Weld on it and turn it back down. Or buy a new rod and weld on any linkage or bend it to match. I make frame bushings out of axle caps from the drawers at Lowes. Grind off the enclosed end and ream to fit the rod. Or drill it to size. Edited July 21 by squonk 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,758 #3 Posted July 21 As always there are multiple solutions. As you suggest the frame can be drilled for a bushing. the bushing would have more support area on the rod. If you use a flanged bushing, the flange could be to the outside so the clutch arm holds it in place along with some red locktite or JB Weld. Why do you want to add roll pins? File a small flat spot on a round shaft and center punch that spot to start a drill bit on a round shaft. The complete rod can be replaced by grinding out the weld on the lever on the other end of the rod. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,567 #4 Posted July 21 2 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: If you use a flanged bushing, the flange could be to the outside so the clutch arm holds it in place along with some red locktite or JB Weld. I'll call/check locally for a flanged bushing. 2 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: Why do you want to add roll pins? Only because I already have non-flanged bushings here on hand. Of course I'd have to hold them in place. 2 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: File a small flat spot on a round shaft and center punch that spot to start a drill bit on a round shaft. The complete rod can be replaced by grinding out the weld on the lever on the other end of the rod. 2 hours ago, squonk said: I make frame bushings out of axle caps That's a neat idea. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,905 #5 Posted July 22 A step bit is useful to open up an existing hole on center.. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,464 #6 Posted July 22 Sounds like there is good ideas to help you out Eric. One step at a time. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,233 #7 Posted July 22 3 hours ago, Pullstart said: A step bit is useful to open up an existing hole on center.. Hold on tight to that drill! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,567 #8 Posted July 22 6 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Hold on tight to that drill! ALWAYS do. I got into an argument with a BIG half inch drill a few years ago and I would just as soon never do that again. It won. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,663 #9 Posted July 22 i used brass bushings no flange, drilled to 5/8". That was 25 or 30 years ago still working no looseness, did the same with the PTO shaft. This is a picture of the bushing in the PTO shaft, don't have one of the clutch shaft. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,634 #10 Posted July 22 @Lee1977 often mention that the cure is looking at you , it all depends on how you look at it , looks like the way to go for me , do a lot of that on REPEDITIVE AREAS , very often , the firming up ,and detailing function , make it work better than new . think linkages / levers , related movement points , work with little to know effort , after ensuring each hand off spot , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
