squonk 41,291 #26 Posted July 18 2 hours ago, stevebo said: I just replaced belt on my c165 and same issue. I think I need to adjust the tab on the idler pulley slightly forward more so it grabs on the guide below when clutch pedal is pressed. That tab is more for keeping the belt on the pulley then to grab the belt. Back off the brake adjustment. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,291 #27 Posted July 18 Another tip with new belts. put the tractor in 3 high and "slip" the clutch to burnish the belt sides. New belts tend to be a bit sticky 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #28 Posted July 18 51 minutes ago, squonk said: Another tip with new belts. put the tractor in 3 high and "slip" the clutch to burnish the belt sides. New belts tend to be a bit sticky Tip of the day right there Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 552 #29 Posted July 18 Some good info in this thread. I have a question for you guys and hope this is not considered a hijack. On my 857 it doesnt have too good of a brake going backwards, and like has already been discussed if you tighten brake to much it causes problems. Do yall think a new brake band would help? The band doesnt look bad to me, and all my other tractors stop like they should. Thought it might just be common to this series of tractor or am I missing sumin. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,205 #30 Posted July 18 5 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said: Some good info in this thread. I have a question for you guys and hope this is not considered a hijack. On my 857 it doesnt have too good of a brake going backwards, and like has already been discussed if you tighten brake to much it causes problems. Do yall think a new brake band would help? The band doesnt look bad to me, and all my other tractors stop like they should. Thought it might just be common to this series of tractor or am I missing sumin. Trina's mid 60s tractors don't brake grab as much in reverse as forward. Likely it's inherent in the setup. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,856 #31 Posted July 18 Band Brakes as used on WH are self energizing when you stop going forward they work against you stopping in reverse. Big reason not to haul heavy loads behind WH if you have to stop going backwards 3 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,436 #32 Posted July 18 (edited) 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: self energizing Exactly If you look at the way the band is anchored and wrapped around the drum you’ll see that, when going forward, once the band is engaging the drum it’ll tend to tighten itself even further. That’s “self energizing”. In reverse, the drum tries to unwind/loosen the band. I believe that another factor is that for a given ground speed on the 3- and 6-speed transaxles, the drum turns more slowly (and in the opposite direction) than it does on the 8-speeds (the band does always wrap in the self-energizing direction for forward motion, though 😁). Edited July 18 by Handy Don 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,716 #33 Posted July 19 @Retired Wrencher amazing to me to see anything that is , SAPOSED TO MOVE / FUNCTION , in a crusty , bone dry , rusty drag zone ? its almost like a brag point , of toughness. new 3-1 oil small bottle , on / in cables , really gets after rust , having said that , can only imagine the suggestion , of adding a light extension spring , to the end point , connection multi holed , go to area ? have found that , a light spring assist , to CLOSE CABELING , makes for a smooth effortless function. it pulls back on every / any request , is that difficult ? regularly state , to look at INTENDED FUNCTION , and improve on it . why not ? a roller stool , look over , at a problem area , glair inly shows you the fault spot . terrifying to many , but its ok , to eliminate a chronic problem . lubricate rust , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,505 #34 Posted July 21 On 7/19/2024 at 8:52 AM, peter lena said: @Retired Wrencher amazing to me to see anything that is , SAPOSED TO MOVE / FUNCTION , in a crusty , bone dry , rusty drag zone ? its almost like a brag point , of toughness. new 3-1 oil small bottle , on / in cables , really gets after rust , having said that , can only imagine the suggestion , of adding a light extension spring , to the end point , connection multi holed , go to area ? have found that , a light spring assist , to CLOSE CABELING , makes for a smooth effortless function. it pulls back on every / any request , is that difficult ? regularly state , to look at INTENDED FUNCTION , and improve on it . why not ? a roller stool , look over , at a problem area , glair inly shows you the fault spot . terrifying to many , but its ok , to eliminate a chronic problem . lubricate rust , pete Well said Pete. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
