Belt noise and not completely stopping

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,317]

On my 857 the belt kinda stops when the clutch is stabbed…but ya really have to be pressing hard. And I missing anything on the inside of the guard? And the tab thingy on the idler pulley, it’s not adjustable but does it look correct? Am I missing something to assist the belt stopping? 
  Just installed a brand new belt, both new and old do the same thing. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

[wallfish 16,999]

Try adjusting that little tab on the front of the belt guard and below the belt. Maybe to 1/16-1/8 off the tight belt. Hard to tell from the pic but it appears like it's bent down a little

[ebinmaine 67,496]

40 minutes ago, Sparky said:

 

 

 

 

 

I agree with @wallfish and also wonder if this tab/guide on the idler is adjustable. 

Some are welded. Some bolted. 

If it's movable you could set it more clockwise. 

 

 

[wallfish 16,999]

The belt dust on the guard looks like that idler tab might be riding on the belt when it's engaged. Bend it up a tad

[wallfish 16,999]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

If it's movable you could set it more clockwise. 

Grinding off the welds will make it adjustable

[Handy Don 12,225]

Just now, wallfish said:

Grinding off the welds will make it adjustable

The idea is to have that tab contact the belt only when the clutch pedal is down and the idler arm is rotated forward toward the engine. 

[squonk 41,111]

Make sure your brake adjustment isn't too tight. I had the same issue on my 857 and the cause was the new band I put on caused the linkage not to move as far as with the old worn out one. This caused the idler pulley not to release enough. 

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,317]

19 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

I agree with @wallfish and also wonder if this tab/guide on the idler is adjustable. 

Some are welded. Some bolted. 

If it's movable you could set it more clockwise. 

 

 

Welded

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,317]

45 minutes ago, squonk said:

Make sure your brake adjustment isn't too tight. I had the same issue on my 857 and the cause was the new band I put on caused the linkage not to move as far as with the old worn out one. This caused the idler pulley not to release enough. 

  Alright! @squonk for the win! 
  Brake was adjusted up “tight” and loosening it so it doesn’t grab so quick has helped. She isn’t perfect but at 57 years old it’s ok to have a couple rattles 

[peter lena 8,627]

@Sparky would also consider the original style / type of pulley , and ALL RELATED LINKAGE MOVEMENT POINTS , would bet that there's a related bearing hang up , would only take a incremental bearing hang up to start , total  shuddering , bouncing . just sayin , pete

[stevasaurus 22,739]

It looks to me like your input pulley on the trans is a bit rusty.  If the engine drive pulley is like that also, they might be your issue.  Clean them up with a wire wheel, wipe them with Mineral Sprits and wipe the belt also.  

   The guide on the tention pulley is just fine...it just keeps the belt on that pulley.  

[stevasaurus 22,739]

Here are the pictures of the guard off my 857...I have no issues.  I do nt have the front tab but I do have the "Wallfish Fix" by the drive pulley.

 

 

 

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,317]

@stevasaurus

  I like that wire belt guide idea… dug thru all my stuff and don’t have one. Will be in the lookout at tractor events for em now 

[squonk 41,111]

29 minutes ago, Sparky said:

@stevasaurus

  I like that wire belt guide idea… dug thru all my stuff and don’t have one. Will be in the lookout at tractor events for em now 

You can probably make them from ceiling grid wire

[stevasaurus 22,739]

#109 wire and a couple pair of plyers and you have one.  A good heavy piece of copper wire works great also.  

[squonk 41,111]

54 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

#109 wire and a couple pair of plyers and you have one.  A good heavy piece of copper wire works great also.  

Now where would an "electrician" get copper wire from? 

 

[ML3 1,203]

Made one for the rat rod Suburban. Didn't have a belt guard however if I did it wouldn't work anyway. Predator 212 & RJ transmission that's lowered on frame. 

[squonk 41,111]

K/90 Suburban belt guides from  #backyardhammermechanic

 

[wallfish 16,999]

1 hour ago, Sparky said:

@stevasaurus

  I like that wire belt guide idea… dug thru all my stuff and don’t have one. Will be in the lookout at tractor events for em now 

I have plenty of rod to make some.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

9 minutes ago, squonk said:

K/90 Suburban belt guides from  #backyardhammermechanic

 

 

When i swaped my 656 to the Predator i had frew things to solve.

1. the original Beltcover was not further usable as before because it gently scratches on the Pulley soi decided to find out how this beltstop exactly works.

I had firstly lots of trouble with a continouse gently friction of the Belt on the Gearboxpulley - it wouldn‘t stop.

So the Clutch won’t work corectly and the Brake engages too early.

 

First after i adjusted on the Gearbox the Guard over the Gerabox littlebit to front as John suggested ( what is welded on your Side) it begins to keep the Belt tighter but there was also still friction on the Belt while clutch was despressed.

 

 

 

A closer inspection shows me that both - the upper belt support and the lower belt support as in this picture from Mike be good visible

must be as close as possible to the Belt without touch it when clotch is engaged. first if the Clutch is pressed the belt moves out

and hits firstly the lower belt support. The upper Belt support was important to keep the Belt in shape and not be too sloppy.

After my tests and tries i found a good setting (similar to that Pict from Mike) it worked as it should without any noise.

 

after that i remodeled the Sidecover a bit to fit to the new bigger Pulley. that worked like a charme now for over 2 years.

a gently deformed cover let sometimes the pulley on the Gearbox gently scratching the Cover

 

That was removed with a Washer on the rear  to get little more distance between pulley and Cover.

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

11 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

 

When i swaped my 656 to the Predator i had frew things to solve.

1. the original Beltcover was not further usable as before because it gently scratches on the Pulley soi decided to find out how this beltstop exactly works.

I had firstly lots of trouble with a continouse gently friction of the Belt on the Gearboxpulley - it wouldn‘t stop.

So the Clutch won’t work corectly and the Brake engages too early.

 

First after i adjusted on the Gearbox the Guard over the Gerabox littlebit to front as John suggested ( what is welded on your Side) it begins to keep the Belt tighter but there was also still friction on the Belt while clutch was despressed.

 

 

 

A closer inspection shows me that both - the upper belt support and the lower belt support as in this picture from Mike be good visible

must be as close as possible to the Belt without touch it when clotch is engaged. first if the Clutch is pressed the belt moves out

and hits firstly the lower belt support. The upper Belt support was important to keep the Belt in shape and not be too sloppy.

After my tests and tries i found a good setting (similar to that Pict from Mike) it worked as it should without any noise.

 

after that i remodeled the Sidecover a bit to fit to the new bigger Pulley. that worked like a charme now for over 2 years.

a gently deformed cover let sometimes the pulley on the Gearbox gently scratching the Cover

 

That was removed with a Washer on the rear  to get little more distance between pulley and Cover.

 

 

 

 

@Sparky  here i have a actual closer Pict to my Beltcover.

If you look little closer on the Upper front, you can see that i shortened the Cover at about 1,5cm.

than i grinded down and rewelded the lower Beltsupport at this 1,5 cm backwards.

The upper beltsupport was scratching the Belt. To prevent this i cut the cover app. 3 cm deep and mold it little upwards an welded a piece of Sheetmetal like a gently Wave.

 

when exactly look at this Pict in the Front you can see my „ lift“ on the front of the Beltcover.

 

Edited July 14 by Tractorhead

[Retired Wrencher 5,455]

14 hours ago, Sparky said:

@stevasaurus

  I like that wire belt guide idea… dug thru all my stuff and don’t have one. Will be in the lookout at tractor events for em now 

Mike you can make one of those. Done it a few times.

[Retired Wrencher 5,455]

Mike. What I have found is when everything is working perfect and adjusted right you will have a whistling sound when it comes to a stop. This when it right. And of course a Wheel Horse belt because of how they fit. I only run these belts. They have never failed me. 

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,330]

I just replaced belt on my c165 and same issue. I think I need to adjust the tab on the idler pulley slightly forward more so it grabs on the guide below when clutch pedal is pressed. 

[peter lena 8,627]

@Retired Wrencher  https://e-rigging.com/blogs/how-to/eye-bolts-essential-lifting-hardware  , easy to make up from this starting point , my own personal take on old bearings , is to replace and clean out / regrease , 550 drop point polyurea grease , have these in use for years now , no bearing related anything , whyining , bouncing  (   hang up  ) always detail in related linkage , added washers , to firm up start point , red grease , make the rust run out , very typical for me to see , solid , bone dry , movement areas , really ? guy I  sold a tractor to , thought anything he touched , was broken !  reality was complete ease of movement , function !  really flipped out on smooth / easy , throttle / choke cables , basic stuff , pete