K241S Replacement for 1057

[JWalser 5]

Hello,

 

I blew up my K241S. Seems like it's going to be more cost effective to buy a new engine. How do I find one that will fulfil my needs? Northern Equipment has the Kohler PA-CH440-3270 on sale right now for $565. 14HP. Would this be an easy plug an play after connecting the pullies?

[oliver2-44 9,759]

Tell us more about what happened to your K241. \

Used Kohler K series 10,12,14,16Hp engines can fit in your tractor with very little to no modification of the tractor.  The basic engine blocks are the same size. So the oil pan and belt guard mounting become the adjustable items.  Your oil pan Is typically reusable after an engine failure.  

The belt guard may bolt right up, or require a mounting tab be welded in a slightly different location.

 

One of the challenges switching to a modern engine is they do not have a ball bearing on the PTO side capable of handling the side load created by the Wheelhorse PTO design.  You troically have to switch to n electric PTO on those modern engines.

Edited July 8 by oliver2-44

[Pullstart 62,905]

Here’s one…

 

 

[Pullstart 62,905]

Additionally, that engine for sale looks like a Honda clone.  It would not quite be a direct plug and play engine.

[WHX?? 48,828]

50 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Here’s one…

 

 

I twant so tractor heavy i would buy it just to keep it from popping up in my CL mail....

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Looks like this one is waiting for me .... huh? 

 

Did i say next year on the Big Show??? 🤥

can‘t remember...🤐😎😜

Man, if the delivery would not be that costly.🤪🤫

 

drained my budget allready for this year while the Big Show Visit.

Have to check for a cheaper way to bring it to my Place...😎

[sqrlgtr 552]

1 hour ago, Tractorhead said:

Looks like this one is waiting for me .... huh? 

 

Did i say next year on the Big Show??? 🤥

can‘t remember...🤐😎😜

Man, if the delivery would not be that costly.🤪🤫

 

drained my budget allready for this year while the Big Show Visit.

Have to check for a cheaper way to bring it to my Place...😎

 

And here I was crying about it being too far away from me.

[JWalser 5]

10 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Tell us more about what happened to your K241. \

Used Kohler K series 10,12,14,16Hp engines can fit in your tractor with very little to no modification of the tractor.  The basic engine blocks are the same size. So the oil pan and belt guard mounting become the adjustable items.  Your oil pan Is typically reusable after an engine failure.  

The belt guard may bolt right up, or require a mounting tab be welded in a slightly different location.

 

One of the challenges switching to a modern engine is they do not have a ball bearing on the PTO side capable of handling the side load created by the Wheelhorse PTO design.  You troically have to switch to n electric PTO on those modern engines.

The connecting rod broke, along with the piston being damaged. I've been told the crankshaft is too damaged to be reused without machining, and that the cylinder also needs to be machined. Everything else looks fine, but might as well rebuild it since it's open. Adding up all the expenses, it's more economical to buy a new engine.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Whow 😱

 

 that looks like for me it runns long with water in oil

or at least not had a regular oilchange.

 

look here for an exchange Engine,

thats the easiest way to be back in service imho.

[953 nut 55,294]

11 hours ago, JWalser said:

How do I find one that will fulfil my needs?

That asks the question, what are your needs? The crankshaft on the new engine is one inch whereas the old one is 1 1/8" so a new drive pulley would be needed. Not sure if the crankshaft is lower or the same height above the frame but you can work that out. If you use the 1057 for mowing then an electric clutch would do the trick for the PTO. The ignition system on the new engine would not be battery powered so a kill relay will need to be added but the thread below will guide you through that process, or you could abandon the existing wiring and just use the key switch provided on the engine. New hookups for choke and throttle but that isn't too hard to figure out.

 

[JWalser 5]

7 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

Whow 😱

 

 that looks like for me it runns long with water in oil

or at least not had a regular oilchange.

 

look here for an exchange Engine,

thats the easiest way to be back in service imho.

Which is interesting because I ran it for 2 summers without checking the oil level (young and dumb). I did a full service last summer and ran about 20 hours on it before the failure. What caused it was I replaced a few gaskets, new battery and fixed an exaust leak. When running it to finish the exaust seal, it was running very high RPM. Then, she died. My dad thinks that my grandpa had adjusted the carb governors to compensate for the issues it was having. Once the issues were repaired, the governors were set too high. Who knows. My grandpa has installed an hour counter last time he rebuilt this engine and we're at 740 hours.

[JWalser 5]

1 minute ago, 953 nut said:

That asks the question, what are your needs? The crankshaft on the new engine is one inch whereas the old one is 1 1/8" so a new drive pulley would be needed. Not sure if the crankshaft is lower or the same height above the frame but you can work that out. If you use the 1057 for mowing then an electric clutch would do the trick for the PTO. The ignition system on the new engine would not be battery powered so a kill relay will need to be added but the thread below will guide you through that process, or you could abandon the existing wiring and just use the key switch provided on the engine. New hookups for choke and throttle but that isn't too hard to figure out.

I guess my needs are just to mow my half acre. I have a blade attachment for snow, but I don't necessarily need to use it. Thanks for that link! I'll take a read.

 

[Lee1977 6,663]

The engine already has a switch fo electric start so extending the wires and switch . will take care of the wiring problem. It has ball bearings on the crank so a manual clutch with work. You will have to most likly have to raise the engine to get the crank shaft at the right height ( same height as the old Kohler ). You can get a split sleeve on Ebay for the !" shaft to 1 1/8" with keyway. The engine cylinder and muffler may 

be in the way of the hood, haven't found drawing of the engine.  My oldest tractor is a 1971 Raider with the newer loop style PTO so can't help with that.

Edited July 9 by Lee1977

[Tractorhead 9,064]

 

I swaped my 656 Tecky Engine after it’s excessive oil consum to a modified Predator,

i decided to use a Taper pulley instead of the Original Pulley what was slightly bigger.

That run now since about 3 years completely without any Problems.

I can imagine that this will also work with another Kohler Engine.

 

the only thing i have to change was the Belts to little different Sizes than Original, but 

when i measured the first time the new Belt lenght i noticed me the lenght and be comfi with.

 

 

The tapers can be ordered in different sizes.

i got me an 85mm pulley instead the ( i believe) 65 mm what was original on the Tecky.

 

Here is a pict after my swap.

 

The gently increased pulleysize let me also mow in second Gear on my 2000 sqm Areal i have to mow.

 

just as suggestion.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

Some of the early 10hp Kohler engines Wheel Horse used have 1" diameter crankshaft diameters so pto size should be considered. Just a head's up as have not followed along here.