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D-180 Steering Pivot

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Pullstart

Oops!

 

My buddy down the road has this loader/hoe on a D-180.  He mounted a Predator 670 to it and it’s a beast!  I borrowed it for some digging around here in exchange for mounting up a motorcycle tire.  The steering pivot has been greased, but maybe not lately.  This bolt seemed quite stuck in there, and the broken part twisted off, getting it quite stuck in the frame.  It’s a 1/2” threaded hole.  I will work on it tomorrow!

 

 

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ri702bill

Looking at the casting, it sure does look dry.

Maybe time to turn a .010 undercut inline with the zerk to spread grease on the replacement pin???

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peter lena

@ri702bill totally agree with you on the dry lubrication areas , what's up with that  ?  @Pullstart  realise I  regularly make a point of it , just sayin , if anyone was to apply ,KROIL  TO A DRY MOVEMENT AREA , BEFORE USE / METAL MOVEMENT , you would have a rusty track / trail of  rust removal , is that so difficult ? another thing about those  D SERIES , is the MECHANICAL STRESS RATIO ,AT JUST ABOUT EVERY POINT . the hydraulics on that will easily over power , any application . that would be like a base line check over on that for me . dare I  say it , lucas green grease , 550 flash point , polyurea rated , would have prevented  those rusty / dry movement points , just a  slight suggestion for a step by step to related failure . pete 

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Achto

That steering arm is the Achilles heel on those D's the cast part is pretty fragile for such a beast of a tractor. Jim bumped into a tree with the front tire of Betty & snapped one arm right off. 

The bolt issue will be fun, but I'm sure you're capable.:thumbs2:

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WHX??
9 hours ago, Pullstart said:

 I borrowed it for some digging around here

And you were digging what???:ychain:Shame on you and in broad daylight! 

  • Haha 2

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Pullstart
Just now, WHX?? said:

And you were digging what???:ychain:Shame on you and in broad daylight! 


I was moving the water hole for my deers :handgestures-salute:

  • Haha 3

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Pullstart
2 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Looking at the casting, it sure does look dry.

Maybe time to turn a .010 undercut inline with the zerk to spread grease on the replacement pin???


 

 

25 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@ri702bill totally agree with you on the dry lubrication areas , what's up with that  ?  @Pullstart  realise I  regularly make a point of it , just sayin , if anyone was to apply ,KROIL  TO A DRY MOVEMENT AREA , BEFORE USE / METAL MOVEMENT , you would have a rusty track / trail of  rust removal , is that so difficult ? another thing about those  D SERIES , is the MECHANICAL STRESS RATIO ,AT JUST ABOUT EVERY POINT . the hydraulics on that will easily over power , any application . that would be like a base line check over on that for me . dare I  say it , lucas green grease , 550 flash point , polyurea rated , would have prevented  those rusty / dry movement points , just a  slight suggestion for a step by step to related failure . pete 


 

There is surely a lack of grease.  I’ll get that broken bolt out of the frame, get the rust cleaned up, and check for clearance.  Ample grease should help the dry situation.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Pullstart
11 minutes ago, Achto said:

That steering arm is the Achilles heel on those D's the cast part is pretty fragile for such a beast of a tractor. Jim bumped into a tree with the front tire of Betty & snapped one arm right off. 

The bolt issue will be fun, but I'm sure you're capable.:thumbs2:


Good to know.  It seems like he enjoys snapping the steering components of other’s machines!  :lol:

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peter lena

@Achto AGREE WITH YOU ON THE STEERING  ISSUE , think there is some answer in any related size / fit  automotive  match . you can  match up specs on line . rarely leave a failure / trouble spot  without  a change . pete

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Pullstart

The bushing was hardened and cleaned up well.  I gave the grease a little pathway to find itself to the bolt if it were pumped excessively, and gave the rest of the front end a well deserved grease job while I was at it.  The excess got pressure washed off after work was completed.

 

 

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Achto
10 hours ago, peter lena said:

think there is some answer in any related size / fit  automotive  match

 

One of these days I'm gonna have a go at fabricating one out of steel. I need a replacement for one of my D's. 

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peter lena

@Achto  was snoopin around and found a number of similar on ebay , just put in the original part #  @Pullstart  ; love  the green grease . stay at it , pete

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pfrederi

If you remove the tie rod ends from the pivot arm be careful and do not over tighten the nuts when you reinstall.  That cast iron pivot is brittle you can break it...don't ask how I know that...

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peter lena

@pfrederi often refer to the detailing  / watching how your  repair is effecting  an issue , have found more often than not , along the build up , you find an ease of movement or similar , washers / grease / etc , makes something that was a train wreck , move with ease . that also shows you the INTENDED  FUNCTION . prime example , if you take a pull / push point , that only works in a straight line , change the end connection to a HEIM JOINT , suddenly smooth  effortless movement , it will TOTALLY  move without effort , then snug up , enhance that point ,  pete 

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Tractorhead

It appears to me that all the Pivots is under high load with FEL and a full Bucket.

What requires imho a very well greased pivots at all the whole Steering parts.

A counterweight is additionally a good idea here.

 

maybe some weight in the Backhoe bucket can do the Trick here to balance the weight ratio between front and back

and so destress the Steering parts.

 

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Lee1977
22 hours ago, Achto said:

 

One of these days I'm gonna have a go at fabricating one out of steel. I need a replacement for one of my D's. 

If you ever build a steel pivot use a large diameter steel and put ball bearings in it with a spacer like the WH deck spindles. That should make it steer easer.

I see why they used a spool, and it lasted 50 years. If you are going to the trouble to build one improve on it. 

 

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