Is my frame bent?

[Sublauxation 10]

Or is that 1/4 inch gap supposed to be there?  My hood closes but some body panels appear to not line up well 

 

Also, any ideas on how to loosen the stud for the hydraulics so I can push it?  Any risk to seals or anything if I use heat?

[ri702bill 8,327]

Well - yes.... A couple of questions...  Was the tractor ever dropped??  Was the tractor used for many seasons for snowplowing...??  Plowing can ve very hard on the frame. The vibration and twist induced into the frame can, and will, cause severe damage. DO check the "F" plate where the Unidrive bolts on... does it wiggle like an inchworm??? This 854 I have did... Damaged AND a quarter inch of twist. Fixable?? Yes, but time consuming and expensive...

 

 

Edited July 7 by ri702bill

[ebinmaine 67,570]

I'd replace that frame instead even attempting to straighten it. 

Those mid 70s C series frames are easy to find and you're almost all the way there to removal. 

 

The tow valve will sometimes come undone with penetrating oil. 

Avoid heat because there's a nylon Oring and a rubber Oring in there. 

Remove the wheel for better acces. 

Sometimes a good grip with vise grips and an extension on that will do it. 

But it takes a knowing hand to feel for breakage. 

 

Remember.... it took decades to rust in there. 

It won't come out in a few minutes.  

 

 

[squonk 41,145]

Take the tire and foot guard off the left side. Use a good small (Rigid) pipe wrench on the release stud.

[Sublauxation 10]

Thanks for the info.  I bought it last fall so no idea of it's history.  Any problems running it as is?  Only planning on using it for mowing and towing a trailer, the deck seems to work fine.

[ri702bill 8,327]

4 minutes ago, Sublauxation said:

Any problems running it as is?

CHECK the frame plate where the Unidrive bolts on.......

[Sublauxation 10]

Interestingly the bend is equal on both rails, for whatever that's worth.

[ebinmaine 67,570]

7 minutes ago, Sublauxation said:

Interestingly the bend is equal on both rails, for whatever that's worth.

 

VERY interesting. 

 

For mowing and light towing I'd run it. 

 

 

But DO CHECK the rear plate.  

[Sublauxation 10]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 

VERY interesting. 

 

For mowing and light towing I'd run it. 

 

 

But DO CHECK the rear plate.  

Yeah, that's why I was hoping against logic that it wad supposed to have a curve to it.

[Pullstart 62,905]

What model is this?  Did it have a 60” deck?

[Pullstart 62,905]

Scratch that.  I see the solid oil pan PTO hoop bracket.  That’s much earlier than 60” decks…

[ebinmaine 67,570]

10 hours ago, Sublauxation said:

Interestingly the bend is equal on both rails, for whatever that's worth.

 

Might have been dropped off a truck or trailer in the past. 

 

11 hours ago, ri702bill said:

CHECK the frame plate where the Unidrive bolts on.......

 

 

@Sublauxation  As long as the transmission/ frame plate isn't cracked it's likely OK to use for LIGHT DUTY. 

 

The C Series aren't as prone to crack as the early to mid 60s frames but I've seen them go. 

 

If you have ANY doubt about the integrity of the frame or its attachment points.... replace it. 

It's all nuts and bolts and super easy. 

 

[Handy Don 12,233]

If the other alignments don’t affect operation, I agree that I’d run it.

It definitely looks like it hit something hard with the front end or else had a sudden, extremely heavy weight on the footrest cross rods.

[Sublauxation 10]

we looked over it and found no cracks.  How/where does one find a new frame and how much should it cost?  Is it the same frame as a manual c160?

[Sublauxation 10]

Looks like just 2" L channel, any reason a guy can't make one?

[ebinmaine 67,570]

1 minute ago, Sublauxation said:

Looks like just 2" L channel, any reason a guy can't make one?

You absolutely can. 

 

 

13 minutes ago, Sublauxation said:

we looked over it and found no cracks.  How/where does one find a new frame and how much should it cost?  Is it the same frame as a manual c160?

 

 

 

There are quite a few models with the same frame that you could use as replacements. 

Long frames.. Year range from 1973 to 1977 for sure with no modifications.

 

Somewhere along the late 70s or early 80s there was a second step support added at the rear. You could either cut that off or just incorporat it into your build. I've seen both go through our shop.

 

Any of the 300, 400, and some 500 models will fit as well with very little to no modification.

 

 

Pricing of course would be up to the buyer and seller. If you were a Redsquare supporter and close by me I would just give the frame to you.

 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,233]

17 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

If you were a Redsquare supporter and close by me I would just give the frame to you.

 

I’m a bit closer, if he want’s the one I promised you! 

’86 500 with the second foot rest support. 

[ebinmaine 67,570]

Just now, Handy Don said:

I’m a bit closer, if he want’s the one I promised you! 

’86 500 with the second foot rest support. 

 

Absolutely.  

If it'll help he's welcome to it. 

[Lee1977 6,663]

The holes are there for the engine and transmission, there will also be a few more that are not needed. Looks to 1973 or later so the hood will bolt up to the front hitch,

[Handy Don 12,233]

43 minutes ago, Sublauxation said:

Looks like just 2" L channel, any reason a guy can't make one?

“Can’t” no, no reason. “Ought not to” yes, I can think of reasons:

- that is heavy gauge “L”, not the stuff you buy at the tractor store

- the dimensions are surprisingly exact in all directions and for all holes

- the F plate, which holds the transaxle to the frame must be strong and perfectly aligned for the tractor to run and steer straight

- the front axle holder/steering shaft holder uses a stamped ¼” plate on one side

- the material alone will likely cost you more than getting a used usable frame, possibly even including shipping

- if your time is worth much of anything, spend it doing something more rewarding

[lynnmor 7,307]

I suspect that Wheel Horse used high strength angle iron for the frames, especially as they built more and more tractor on the same frame.  

[Sublauxation 10]

On 7/6/2024 at 5:55 PM, ebinmaine said:

I'd replace that frame instead even attempting to straighten it. 

Those mid 70s C series frames are easy to find and you're almost all the way there to removal. 

 

The tow valve will sometimes come undone with penetrating oil. 

Avoid heat because there's a nylon Oring and a rubber Oring in there. 

Remove the wheel for better acces. 

Sometimes a good grip with vise grips and an extension on that will do it. 

But it takes a knowing hand to feel for breakage. 

 

Remember.... it took decades to rust in there. 

It won't come out in a few minutes.  

 

 

Would I be an idiot for giving it a couple whacks with an impact screwdriver? (the kind you smack with a hammer?)
It's in there surprisingly tightly.  I will take the wheel off next time I get the chance but the vice grips kept sliding off.  IT's been soaking i PB for a week.

[ebinmaine 67,570]

25 minutes ago, Sublauxation said:

Would I be an idiot for giving it a couple whacks with an impact screwdriver? (the kind you smack with a hammer?)
It's in there surprisingly tightly.  I will take the wheel off next time I get the chance but the vice grips kept sliding off.  IT's been soaking i PB for a week.

 

Asking appropriate questions is proof you're NOT an idiot. 

 

1.  DO NOT twist that with an impact of any type. Reason being is it's not a very hard metal. 

 

2.  I realize everyone has preferred methods...  but PB is just not a good penetrating oil. 

There are several brands that work substantially better and a home shop mix of ATF and acetone. 

 

You CAN heat that tow valve but plan on replacing the soft parts inside once you have it out. 

 

When you get GOOD access to it like wheel removed and a strong vise grip set, try TIGHTENING it first. 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,570]

36 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I suspect that Wheel Horse used high strength angle iron for the frames, especially as they built more and more tractor on the same frame.  

 

Having cut a couple I'd agree.  

[Sublauxation 10]

15 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Having cut a couple I'd agree.  

Thing there'd be any gain by bolting or welding another piece of angle or flat stock alongside the rail?