AlexR 629 #1 Posted July 4 (edited) So I got this Raider 14 that had been sitting outside for at least 5 years it has a exhaust stack which isn't a good thing sitting outside. When I drained the oil I had only a tiny bit of water come out maybe a teaspoon or two. But before I even was going to attempt to start it I knew I needed to pull the head and this is what was under there.. pretty nasty but it cleaned up well. The cylinder wall actually looks pretty good I don't really feel any lip between the top part of the cylinder wall and the part that the rings top out at. So I got three questions #1 is there is no std, .010 .020 or .030 stamp on the piston. So could it be any of those or is it a std that isn't stamped? #2 so the exhaust valve was stuck I got it to move sprayed some pb blaster to get into the stem and I twisted it and ran it up and down quite a few times and it loosened up some but still not that close to being free. So do I keep working at it or do I need to replace the valves and valve guides? The valve seats look good both valves were closed so that saved those. And #3 when I sprayed pb blaster down in the exhaust valve I saw some pb come back up in the head bolt hole closest to the exhaust the one towards the carb is that normal to have that have a opening to the exhaust chamber? Edited July 4 by AlexR 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leabassett@sbcglobal.net 149 #2 Posted July 4 I had a stuck valve I worked it free and fired the motor on a can and it ran. Have not run it in the tractor yet but it still moves. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,758 #3 Posted July 4 (edited) On 7/3/2024 at 8:03 PM, AlexR said: #2 so the exhaust valve was stuck I got it to move sprayed some pb blaster to get into the stem and I twisted it and ran it up and down quite a few times and it loosened up some but still not that close to being free. So do I keep working at it or do I need to replace the valves and valve guides? The valve seats look good both valves were closed so that saved those. And #3 when I sprayed pb blaster down in the exhaust valve I saw some pb come back up in the head bolt hole closest to the exhaust the one towards the carb is that normal to have that have a opening to the exhaust chamber? I would pull the valve, buff it clean on a wire wheel and see if that frees it up. Reinstall and run it. Edited July 5 by oliver2-44 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,082 #4 Posted July 4 (edited) 10 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said: I would put the valve, buff it clean on a wire wheel and see if that frees it up. Reinstall and run it. Unless the valve stem is bent, cleaning both it and the guide should free it up. Edited July 4 by kpinnc 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,327 #5 Posted July 4 5 hours ago, kpinnc said: Unless the valve stem is bent, cleaning both it and the guide should free it up. Agreed - also gives you a chance to check / adjust the valve clearances. You may also wish to lap the valve(s), you are right there anyway.... the exhaust valve seat already has a hard life, the corrosion might dictate more action is needed... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 629 #6 Posted July 4 Alright that sounds unanimous on pulling it out and cleaning it up, thanks guys! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 629 #7 Posted July 5 It took some doing but got the valve high enough to be able to wire bush the rusted part of the valve stem and it moves freely where it needs to now I still will need to lap the valve. Probably minds well do the intake along with the exhaust. I wasn't able to get the valve all the way out so if I end up having problems it will probably just get new valves, guides and a whole rebuild. But I will get it running first and see how it does. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 629 #8 Posted July 11 Well I got the exhaust valve completely freed up I had to take some 1500 sandpaper to the bottom part to get it all the way out. Finished cleaning it up and its smooth now. Then I lapped both valves and they cleaned up very nicely I am pretty happy about that. Just need to finish getting the engine back together to test it out. If it runs good and doesn't smoke I will probably just run it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #9 Posted July 11 The valve seat contact width is to be 1/32" with a 1/16" as the maximum, yours appears to be double that. The issue is that a too wide seating area will have much lower pressure per square inch and can lead to leaking. There are special tools to cut the seat to the required shape, an automotive machine shop can do it, or you can purchase the cutters. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 629 #10 Posted July 12 21 hours ago, lynnmor said: The valve seat contact width is to be 1/32" with a 1/16" as the maximum, yours appears to be double that. The issue is that a too wide seating area will have much lower pressure per square inch and can lead to leaking. There are special tools to cut the seat to the required shape, an automotive machine shop can do it, or you can purchase the cutters. I neglected to read the manual on that part. I think at this point I am going to leave it as is until I get it running, and see how it runs if it's a smoker or not. If it is I will probably take it to a machine shop to do the bore, valve guides, and cut the seats and check the crank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 629 #11 Posted July 12 So I measured it and it's right at 1/16" I checked it with a caliper too but it was kinda hard to get a photo of that. But even with that 1/16 is .0625 and the max was .045 But I think that's close enough not to worry about it until a rebuild of the engine wither its sooner or later. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #12 Posted July 12 (edited) 46 minutes ago, AlexR said: So I measured it and it's right at 1/16" I checked it with a caliper too but it was kinda hard to get a photo of that. But even with that 1/16 is .0625 and the max was .045 But I think that's close enough not to worry about it until a rebuild of the engine wither its sooner or later. Just so you know, many or most disregard the specification. I am surprised that the "lap the valves" crowd didn't jump all over this. Looking at the lapped portion of the valve it appears to be quite wide and you can take a measurement there. If the valve guides are worn that lapped area will be wider than the seat because of the play. Edited July 12 by lynnmor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 629 #13 Posted July 13 20 hours ago, lynnmor said: Just so you know, many or most disregard the specification. I am surprised that the "lap the valves" crowd didn't jump all over this. Looking at the lapped portion of the valve it appears to be quite wide and you can take a measurement there. If the valve guides are worn that lapped area will be wider than the seat because of the play. Valve is 1/16" lapped width as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
