ebinmaine 67,230 #26 Posted August 1 6 hours ago, TonyToro Jr. said: So I would, but, I tried to put the tie rods on today but they would not fit. They were like 1/2 an inch to long. I like the heim joints alot. We use them here on all our workers. If you remove both lock nuts will they work? Will the rod ends tighten onto the rod enough to keep them in place? You could "lock" them with JB Weld. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,387 #27 Posted August 1 11 hours ago, ebinmaine said: I like the heim joints alot. We use them here on all our workers. If you remove both lock nuts will they work? Will the rod ends tighten onto the rod enough to keep them in place? You could "lock" them with JB Weld. I tried it remove the nuts but the threads only go into the heim joint so far, Could I get the link of the ones you use? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,230 #28 Posted August 1 8 minutes ago, TonyToro Jr. said: I tried it remove the nuts but the threads only go into the heim joint so far, Could I get the link of the ones you use? I use 7/16 sized rod ends from McMaster carr. I do that because I find most of the holes from the old original 3/8 rods have some wear and tear so we drill out to the next size up. This gives you the double benefit of having a fresh clean straight hole to bolt into and also the 7/16 rods, even though only one size up, are quite a bit stronger. That won't matter to most people but it does to us and our usage. I can get you some pictures and part numbers later this evening. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,230 #29 Posted August 1 Here's a pic of the two that we use. Note that one is female and the other male. I purchased these as I said above from McMaster-Carr for maybe $10 to $12 a piece. If you bought the ones with female Inlet sides and purchased a piece of threaded rod the correct size, you could use the right length threaded rod as your cross piece between the two. The Tie Rod Tube itself. If you are a family member has access to someone with a metal lathe and threading tools you could have them make up your Center tubes. That's what I've done in the past. 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,387 #30 Posted August 10 Day 5: Got the rear half of the tractor painted and the underside. But the fender mounting bracket back on. Painted the Hydro lever bar a rust oleum color I found in the cabinet. And put the front end back together, Waiting for the new tie rods to come (Hopefully they’ll work) then I can put the front end back on the tractor. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,387 #31 Posted August 12 Day 6: Yesterday got some stuff done. Got the fuel tank mounts painted and mounted up. Got the seat pan mount and that support piece painted. Got the steering tower sanded and painted. And painted the 2 black covers for the amp meter and all the controls for the hydro, hydraulics, brake etc. Also opened up the gas tank to find a whole bunch of rusty water! Swished around bad gas in there until it came out how I put it in. Replaced the fuel tank grommet and put the shutoff valve back in. IMG_8965.mov 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,387 #32 Posted August 13 Day 7: Well it’s starting to look like a tractor again! I put the steering colum and battery tray on. And both of the black plates for the controls and amp meter. Also installed a handle for the release for the belt and replaced the idler pulley. 1 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,387 #33 Posted August 13 Alright so I’m going to need your guys help with this, 2 questions. 1. What kind and how much oil should I put in the transmission. It’s a sunstrand. 2. What color should I paint the rims? I want it to be as close to factory as possible. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,387 #34 Posted August 27 (edited) Day 8: Today got a few things accomplished. Got the front end back on the tractor. My dad is going to shorten the tie rods tommorow then the front end should be complete. Got the front attach 0 matic on. Put on the brake linkage. And adjusted. Got the rear shaker mount block on. Got another belt guide painted, And mid attach o matic painted. Still not sure what color I should paint the rims. Thoughts? Question: Is there any crossover bearing number for the front wheel bearings? Edited August 27 by TonyToro Jr. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,230 #35 Posted August 27 1 hour ago, TonyToro Jr. said: Still not sure what color I should paint the rims. Thoughts? What's your favorite? I like a shade of off white most of all. We usually use Rust-Oleum 2X Navajo White gloss. Some folks like a darker shade like Almond. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,230 #36 Posted August 27 1 hour ago, TonyToro Jr. said: bearing number I've bought some in the past but not sure what number. Do a search here on the site for something like "front bearing" maybe? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,387 #37 Posted August 27 9 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: What's your favorite? I like a shade of off white most of all. We usually use Rust-Oleum 2X Navajo White gloss. Some folks like a darker shade like Almond. That’s the issue. I’ve never painted rims before so I really don’t know. What color do you think is the closest to factory? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,230 #38 Posted August 27 1 minute ago, TonyToro Jr. said: That’s the issue. I’ve never painted rims before so I really don’t know. What color do you think is the closest to factory? To be honest I'm not sure. Particularly in the late 70s where you're trying to match. @c-series don might be a good authority. We've had a mid 60s wheel with a good non rusty interior that had (likely original) Wheelhorse tires on it. The paint on the inside was a dead match to the Navajo White we use. So close I lost sight of the sample on the rim. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,387 #39 Posted August 27 31 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I've bought some in the past but not sure what number. Do a search here on the site for something like "front bearing" maybe? So I did some searching and found this number 110513. Would those work? Here’s the link on scamazon. https://www.amazon.com/Toro251-210-110513-Wheelhorse-Wheel-Bearings/dp/B073YFW3TQ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,230 #40 Posted August 28 4 minutes ago, TonyToro Jr. said: So I did some searching and found this number 110513. Would those work? Here’s the link on scamazon. https://www.amazon.com/Toro251-210-110513-Wheelhorse-Wheel-Bearings/dp/B073YFW3TQ I don't see a size listing there so it's tough to say. I believe yours should be 3/4" ID by about 1 3/8" OD. Best to measure to be sure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,655 #41 Posted August 28 Recently I restored my C-175 and used oil base Benjamin Moore Linen White, sprayed it with a gun and honestly couldn’t have been happier. Very little smell, dried fast and nice and glossy. Plus it wasn’t very expensive, I definitely recommend it. A quart was more than enough to spray four deep dish back rims and two front rims. 8 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 1,647 #42 Posted August 28 Don: do you treat sidewalls with a shine product? it almost looks like the sidewalls are painted black they look so good -- the seat also nice and shiny????? Do you slide off seat when driving? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,655 #43 Posted August 30 @Brockport Bill This is what I use on the tires, spray it and leave it on not wiping it. Just wiping whatever may get on the rims. It’ll stay shiny for quite some time, it’s not exactly cheap but it works well. I forgot what I used on the seat? Maybe the same stuff? Whatever I used does make you want to slide off the seat! Reminds me of Armoralling a bench seat so it was super slippery, then making hard right turns so the girl would slide over next to you!!! Kids now will never experience that!!! 1 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,128 #44 Posted August 30 13 hours ago, c-series don said: Armoralling a bench seat so it was super slippery, then making hard right turns Ah, the tricks of the trade when bench seats were the standard! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,387 #45 Posted September 4 Did some more work over the start of this week. Monday I got the engine out of the donor tractor. Took some sheet metal off of a spare engine that I’m using for parts for this engine since it didn’t have some of the covers. Sprayed down the engine in degreaser and washed it clean. Sanded down and painted the shroud covers. And hopefully by the end of this week the engine will be in and painted. Also put in the dash board with 2 new used throttle and choke cables since Mr.Kelly had to use these for one of his other tractors and this one didn’t have them hooked up with the predator. 5 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,655 #46 Posted September 5 I think Brian at K+B Wheel Horse Parts has new motion lever knobs if you’re interested. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,230 #47 Posted September 5 25 minutes ago, c-series don said: I think Brian at K+B Wheel Horse Parts has new motion lever knobs if you’re interested. Thanks for that reminder! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,387 #48 Posted September 5 9 hours ago, c-series don said: I think Brian at K+B Wheel Horse Parts has new motion lever knobs if you’re interested. Thanks! I ordered one from Partstree and the second we tried to put it on the whole thing just shattered. Will be ordering that! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy N. 2,134 #49 Posted September 5 On 8/27/2024 at 5:05 PM, TonyToro Jr. said: Question: Is there any crossover bearing number for the front wheel bearings? If you are still looking for front wheel bearings, these are the ones that I've been using. I just remove the inside bearing dust cover so they accept grease from the wheel zirk. https://a.co/d/9NLHY0Q 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,387 #50 Posted September 5 1 hour ago, Andy N. said: If you are still looking for front wheel bearings, these are the ones that I've been using. I just remove the inside bearing dust cover so they accept grease from the wheel zirk. https://a.co/d/9NLHY0Q Yes I was still looking for bearings. Thanks for the link! I’m ordering them right when I get home from school! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites