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Seven Fifty Me

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sqrlgtr
1 minute ago, Racinbob said:

 As long as it's got the same wobble box as mine any angle from horizontal to vertical. The box moves with the cutter bar so there absolutely no mechanical issues and it runs full of lube so that's not a problem. I use mine at a 45° =/- angle almost 100% of the time. :)

 Kinda thought maybe thats how they were just looking at the pics. I can think of a lot things they would be handy for (pond maint,fence row, etc..)

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Pullstart
58 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said:

Quick ? How much of an angle will the sickle come up and still work?


I ran it an a 45, but @pfrederi told me they are definitely intended to sit on the ground.  I agree, it makes more noise when suspended at any angle.  I can see it flex, and I’m sure that does not do the knife pieces any favors!

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Racinbob

I don't get any flex at all but it is the shorter 42". Also if it did want to flex it would be eliminated by where I'm supporting it when angled. :)

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pfrederi

Been away ...Glad the old girl is working out for you. She originally had duals on her.  That might help with the tippiness if the weights don't help.  I took the duals off to save space in storage as I never mowed with the bar raised.  She doesn't have a normal wobble box. PO removed the innards and replaced it with an eccentric and pitman arm like used in regular full size sickles.

 

You have to carefully watch  just about every nut and bolt on her the shaking is pretty intense...

 

By all means keep wearing steel toed flip flops sickles are unforgiving when the meet flesh and body parts:P

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Handy Don
2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

sickles are unforgiving

Whether the sickle meets the foot or the foot meets the sickle, it’s bad for the foot.

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Pullstart

Well, I’ve had $150 worth of fun already, but I hope I didn’t do too much carnage!  
 

The mower has been repaired here before.  This tells me it should be able to be repaired again, without too much other failures.  I have another Jari sickle bar to Rob parts from if needed.  I’ll need to tear this down, grind the crack to a 45, and weld it up good.  I might even end with a fish plate on the back side, if possible.

 

 

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Tractorhead

An stiffner in the rear after rewelding can maybe helpful to prevent another Breakdown.

i would considering about an adapted Angleiron formed with heat to the shape of the Mainbar.

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pfrederi

Sorry about the break.  I always thought the hydro action was harsh. Perhaps a dampener valve like WH used on some D series or just a flow restricter so the cylinder response is slowed down???

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Pullstart
22 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Sorry about the break.  I always thought the hydro action was harsh. Perhaps a dampener valve like WH used on some D series or just a flow restricter so the cylinder response is slowed down???


I’m learning :handgestures-thumbupright: 

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Tractorhead

A restriction valve for slower lifting is imho here the better solution.

The lift goes very rude upwards.

but that is just my humble opinion.

 

the drop can be also be little reduced, but that can be handles with gentlier opening the drain Valve.

The lift up is for my opinion the more stress for the Sicklebar.

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Pullstart

I need this mower to clean out my old food plots and begin planting.  I took it apart today, gave the crack a good clean chamfer grind, and got to welding.  I added a brace to spread the load of it lifting too.

 

Perfect timing, it began raining as I set out to mow.  :angry-tappingfoot:

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peter lena

@Pullstart  that thing SOUNDS TERRIFIC AT WORK !   get some chain / cable spray , into all related swing , shuttle  movement areas , MAKE THE RUST RUN OUT !  knocker loose penetrant , first for creeping , then  MACKS chain cable spray , napa , also open gear spray , macks , that ease of motion , is what you want , just a suggestion , pete 

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