Handy Don 12,281 #51 Posted July 31 14 minutes ago, Racinbob said: I haven't heard of that but I almost feel like I'm in uncharted waters here so ?? Highly humid air blasting through the carb and being mixed with fuel has its temp lowered -- sometimes dramatically to below freezing when ice can form on the inside walls blocking the fuel inlets and starving the engine. This was a big surprise (sometimes fatal) in early airplanes (think flying through cloud cover) and is the reason that even today, carbureted aircraft engines ALL have a means of heating the carburetor to prevent carb icing (which is, of course, more problematic at altitude than when mowing the lawn), 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,115 #52 Posted August 1 I got the electric going and it didn't help a thing. I respect what @ebinmaine says but I still went ahead and ordered the carb from Isavetractors. Hopefully it's better that the cheapys on Ebay. Going this route gives me more options. The carb on the 'freshly rebuilt' K-341 is fine and I have another one that I can rebuild. I really don't want to start pulling parts of the engine yet and I'm hoping to slap the new carb on the M14 and get it going again. I'm wondering if the choke shaft on the Walbro will fit the Kohler carb. I'm thinking it will. Stay tuned for part 4 gazillion of my frustrations with this tractor. Does 'buyers remorse' ring a bell? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,766 #53 Posted August 1 No worries Bob. You'll get it. That isave carb will give you a few years at the least. Keep us posted. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,023 #54 Posted August 1 2 hours ago, Racinbob said: went ahead and ordered the carb from Isavetractors. Hopefully it's better that the cheapys on Ebay. I've used about a 1/2 dozen or more of those IST carbs and have yet to have any problems. I've never took one apart to inspect it and or looked inside because of the theory "if it ain't broke don't fix it". A little throttle shaft movement doesn't bother me one little bit if the engine is still running perfect. It's always preferred to keep and rebuild originals but some can't be done, like when the threads are striped for the bowl nuts. Or, when an engine comes carb-less. I don't hesitate to just order a new one and be done with it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,171 #55 Posted August 1 On 7/12/2024 at 7:07 PM, ebinmaine said: Are those the more quiet type? That Mr. Gasket pump is plastic like the Facet Posi-Flo. Same pump except where they are made. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,115 #56 Posted August 1 51 minutes ago, squonk said: That Mr. Gasket pump is plastic like the Facet Posi-Flo. Same pump except where they are made. There are several identical other than the color or decal. I used the same pump on my 2005 Classic for years with no issues. Figured I might as well stick with them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,115 #57 Posted August 14 When I ordered the IST carb I didn't order a new linkage because I knew I had one. When the carb got here I looked at the linkage I had and it was the style I wanted to use but the arm doesn't snap over the ball. At that point I didn't want to grind the ball off the new carb arm so I went ahead and ordered a new linkage from IST. I had waited this long so what's another week? When it got here and I went to install it I realized that it was pretty typical China stuff. I didn't like the way it held on. So I did what I should have done in the first place. It didn't take much to grind the ball off and get my linkage installed and it was time to try again. A couple of minor adjustments and check the max RPM and she's running perfect! That spring thingy on the new linkage doesn't seem like it would hold. It bends way to easily. Also that groove on the opposite end is much shallower than my old one and the E clip doesn't hold well. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,281 #58 Posted August 14 2 hours ago, Racinbob said: didn't order a new linkage because I knew I had one. Jumping briefly on my soapbox. Aftermarket parts, regardless of vendor, often use different specs for some components that are not meant to be interchangeable. It is common, for example, to discover that on a new carb the needle valve threading is metric or just different, and likely coarser or the bowl is a slightly different diameter. Why? Because the vendor is selling a complete unit that will bolt on and accept the fuel line and has the throttle plate (and maybe the choke arm) in the correct place. Their engineers have also considered how they can produce one basic model and with minor variation have it work as a replacement for several OEM products. They have little or no incentive to make exact replicas (and may even encounter legal issues if they did so). With fewer and fewer people repairing/refurbishing old equipment, the parts business is tough. NOS vendors, recognizing this, have held the line on pricing and even raised them in some cases. Stepping down now. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,927 #59 Posted August 14 (edited) My local hardware store has ball joint rod ends for 10-32 screws . But two of those, some 10-32 screws and lock nuts and some 10-32 all thread and build your own linkage. Grind the ball stud off the carb and you're all set. Solid linkage with no play. Edited August 14 by Bill D 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,115 #60 Posted August 14 All fixed Bill. You can see the ball stud on top of the engine along with the Chinese link. The 'old' style linkage I had was the type with the ball stud embedded into the linkage end. Then the threaded stud connects to the carb. I should have done it this way right off the get go instead of ordering a new link 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
