1054A (my "new") Update

[Dave E 35]

Here's a 1054A I am restoring (with my wife's Simplicity), I have a couple questions for y'all.

 

1. Runs good and pulls good at lower RPM, above a certain RPM when just riding it gets loud vibration at the engine. Not sure if it might be a bearing going, etc., is this something common on these older WH's/Kohlers?
2. It's finnicky going into gear (grinding/finessing necessary). I've polished up the pulley at the crankshaft, I tried an 83" belt (too long), it has a new 82" belt. The clutch lever is working and I can't see that it could be adjusted any differently. If I keep at idle it will usually go into 1st or reverse, 2nd and 3rd only "easy" to get into at a little speed with clutch.
3. With respect to 2, are 2nd and 3rd supposed to be started in like an old ford type or are they shifted into in series? I remember an old Ford Ferguson that my dad had where if you wanted 4th you started moving in 4th...
4. Anybody have a spare e-brake they want to sell cheap? Otherwise I will be doing a little bending and welding to make a new one, nut was frozen and it twisted off (I knew it would break, I knew it would break, it broke)
5. e).

 

Thanks in advance!

Dave

[WHX?? 48,814]

In case I have not done so Dave 

Check to see that belt guard is properly in place and the belt is stopping completely. There is a small rail on the bottom of the belt make sure that is in place. 

27 minutes ago, Dave E said:

If I keep at idle it will usually go into 1st or reverse, 2nd and 3rd only "easy" to get into at a little speed with clutch.

That might be normal sometimes I have to feather the clutch. Avoid grinding at all costs. 

 

Any chance you can put up a vid of that engine noise? 

[WHX?? 48,814]

30 minutes ago, Dave E said:

Anybody have a spare e-brake they want to sell cheap?

 

Was there one on that carcass Kev? @Pullstart

[Dave E 35]

3 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

In case I have not done so Dave 

Check to see that belt guard is properly in place and the belt is stopping completely. There is a small rail on the bottom of the belt make sure that is in place. 

That might be normal sometimes I have to feather the clutch. Avoid grinding at all costs. 

 

Any chance you can put up a vid of that engine noise? 

Yeah, belt guard is on and the bottom rail is in place as well.  I remember seeing someone on here talking about "tabs" or such, no idea what that is.  

 

I'll get a video of the noise tonight after work, as well as a video of the belt movement. thanks!

[rjg854 11,360]

You are coming to a complete stop whenever you shift gears, right?  

[Dave E 35]

35 minutes ago, rjg854 said:

You are coming to a complete stop whenever you shift gears, right?  

Yes, won't go into 2nd or 3rd and I sometimes have to finesse it into 1st/reverse - at idle, while stopped, clutch/idler depressed.

[squonk 41,067]

A working brake helps. The belt needs to be slack with the clutch pedal down but there is enough drag on the belt and the trans gears aren't stopped with the brake, there will be some grinding if you hesitate shifting into a gear. What I mean by this is You shift out of gear with no problem but if you wait a second or 2 before trying to shift into another gear, the trans gears can start moving. There are no syncro's in these transmissions. All straight cut gears unless you have an early 953 rear axle with the bevel gear.

 

Most 10 HP Kohlers do not have balance gears and can vibrate with higher RPM's

[Dave E 35]

16 minutes ago, squonk said:

A working brake helps. The belt needs to be slack with the clutch pedal down but there is enough drag on the belt and the trans gears aren't stopped with the brake, there will be some grinding if you hesitate shifting into a gear. What I mean by this is You shift out of gear with no problem but if you wait a second or 2 before trying to shift into another gear, the trans gears can start moving. There are no syncro's in these transmissions. All straight cut gears unless you have an early 953 rear axle with the bevel gear.

 

Most 10 HP Kohlers do not have balance gears and can vibrate with higher RPM's

 

Yeah, my yard is pretty flat but never seems flat where I stop the tractor, gotta get the e-brake working again, lol. 

 

I will try shifting into 1st at a stop to get the trans gears stopped then quickly shift into 2nd or 3rd to see if that is the trick, not sure I tried that.

 

Pretty loud vibration - wouldn't want to go far with that, wondering if there is a balancer opposite the drive pulley?  I dunno, it's not bad under a certain RPM and I can live with that for now, I ordered a $13 inductive tach so I can try to nail down the different RPMs from idle to rattle.

 

[953 nut 55,188]

The shifting problem is why I went to an 83" belt. If memory serves me right I had to trim some metal to allow the clutch arm to swing a bit further.

There is an arm mounted on the right fender that will hold the belt on the transmission pulley (sorry, no pictures) and there is one on the engine to keep the belt on the engine pulley.

[Dave E 35]

38 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

The shifting problem is why I went to an 83" belt. If memory serves me right I had to trim some metal to allow the clutch arm to swing a bit further.

There is an arm mounted on the right fender that will hold the belt on the transmission pulley (sorry, no pictures) and there is one on the engine to keep the belt on the engine pulley.

Good pics, I'll post some tomorrow. I got it working much better tonight, moved the guide up as far as it will go and it's not touching but close. I didn't mess with the back one but I did see that it's more than the called for 1/16" to 1/32", will probably try that tomorrow. Still a little grinding sometimes but much better.  If you want another 83" I have one with about 50 turns on it. 

[953 nut 55,188]

4 minutes ago, Dave E said:

If you want another 83" I have one with about 50 turns on it. 

If you got it at Tractor Supply they will take it back.

[Dave E 35]

57 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

If you got it at Tractor Supply they will take it back.

Really... wow, I'll try that.  Thanks!

[WHX?? 48,814]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

If you got it at Tractor Supply they will take it back.

I get the size I think I need from TSC and one either side. Take back the ones that don't work as long as they are not damaged or full of grease. 

@Achto and I both had problems with  TSC belts  on 953s until they wore in and left blue dust all over... 82"  right Dan? After that no issues. 

The arm Richard showed is what some guys call a tab. Some model belt guards have it built on. 

Edited June 18 by WHX??

[Dave E 35]

1 hour ago, WHX?? said:

I get the size I think I need from TSC and one either side. Take back the ones that don't work as long as they are not damaged or full of grease. 

@Achto and I both had problems with  TSC belts  on 953s until they wore in and left blue dust all over... 82"  right Dan? After that no issues. 

The arm Richard showed is what some guys call a tab. Some model belt guards have it built on. 

I have a tab. Will post pics tomorrow from PC.  Look forward to belt wearing in, guess I need to work it more and wrench it less for a while ...

[Dave E 35]

Adjusted belt spacing last night, the manual shows 1/16"-1/32", there's not nearly enough adjustment to have it that close up front but further back on the belt guide I got it in tolerance.  Pretty much means the belt is 2 hair widths off the guide.  It's working much better now, hoping as the belt breaks in it will improve more.  As for the guide hanging off the fender in the rear, I didn't touch it but I think I will so see if it makes any difference though it seems it is there more to keep the belt on the pulley.  Here's a picture up front:

 

 

The belt cover does include a guide which sits above the belt, here's a picture of that:

 

Thanks for the advice on that, seems like I am in decent shape on the belt side of things.

Dave

 

[Pullstart 62,834]

The parking brake is on the left side of the tractor.  Do you have this?  You can see without the left side cover the clutch/brake lever is depressed, and the parking brake handle is rotated into position.

[Dave E 35]

4 hours ago, Pullstart said:

The parking brake is on the left side of the tractor.  Do you have this?  You can see without the left side cover the clutch/brake lever is depressed, and the parking brake handle is rotated into position.

Yes, mine was out of adjustment so I put a wrench on it pretty much expecting it to twist off and of course I willed it to do so.  Found one on A-Z Tractor that has the same part number as in my manual (2830) but with a -U on the end and ordered it for $15.  If it's the wrong part I will just put my D-/F+ welding skills (but I get a C- in grinding) to work and make one I guess.  Just logged in and it looks like it shipped, so I wait...  

Edit: A-Z tacks a -U on the part number of anything that is a used part - so looks like it's the right part.  Maybe somebody will see this down the road and be wiser for it.

Edited June 18 by Dave E

[953 nut 55,188]

Do you have the spring that allows the parking brake to come off when you tap the brake pedal?   

[Dave E 35]

13 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Do you have the spring that allows the parking brake to come off when you tap the brake pedal?   

Yes, I have it sitting in there waiting for the new lever which is in the mail with my hydraulic pump pulley from A-Z.  Hopefully have both by the weekend, it's in the hands of USPS...