Factory lift ram stripped (video)

[RED-Z06 2,221]

Bummer, i pulled it out the shop to warm it up and the deck went down but not back up, pulled up the fender and my worst fears were realized.  

The way it mounts i dont think a universal actuator would work.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,043]

Everything we have on the subjet

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q="lift electric"&quick=1&type=downloads_file

[RED-Z06 2,221]

Looks like my actuator length (body) is 12", and retracted length is approximately 14", extended length isn't critical..but 4" should do it.. the front mount will be custom no matter what 

[daveoman1966 3,751]

This is the electric lift that has been on my shelf for a loooooong time.  I do not have the electric motor, but all the other parts appear to be complete....'cept for one exploded bearing you see.  Asi de from some surface rust, it isn't twisted or otherwise damaged. 

For all seen in these pics--$75 + 24 ship (heavy pkg).  For just the lift tube and internals...with gears.. $50 + 20 ship charge. (excluding the Yoke & threaded rod and  HD brackets )  

 

[wallfish 16,999]

It's probably the worm gear or that other gear stripped or possibly the pin holding the gear to the shaft

I just can't picture an Acme screw stripping under this circumstance.

Open it up and it looks like Dave can fix you up with the needed parts

[RED-Z06 2,221]

14 minutes ago, wallfish said:

It's probably the worm gear or that other gear stripped or possibly the pin holding the gear to the shaft

I just can't picture an Acme screw stripping under this circumstance.

Open it up and it looks like Dave can fix you up with the needed parts

Its got it's issues, the motor part has been drilled and helicoiled, the motor "stops" after lifting or lowering like its tripping a breaker for 15-20 seconds.  

[RED-Z06 2,221]

Got a ram off Amazon, adapted it..im going to have to put a pin in thr rear mount because the fender pan hits when lifted bit the ram works great.

[RED-Z06 2,221]

Thought i updated this post.  Got it mounted front and rear, drilled a lower hole through the rear mounts, and bolted it, works good, its a bit slow but it does give me nice precise control 

[peter lena 8,627]

@RED-Z06  thanks for the update  , personal experience on any original W/H  set up , is the lack of  operational detailing , amazing to me , how close they were in original set up , typically , firming up push pull points , washers , etc , lubrication  verification , watching it work , from a  sit stool , very often shows you the hang up point . your  SLOW MOVEMENT AREA , is probably directional . change thrust point . would look at possibilities , maybe that spring assist / movement swing point . stay at it , pete        

[RED-Z06 2,221]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@RED-Z06  thanks for the update  , personal experience on any original W/H  set up , is the lack of  operational detailing , amazing to me , how close they were in original set up , typically , firming up push pull points , washers , etc , lubrication  verification , watching it work , from a  sit stool , very often shows you the hang up point . your  SLOW MOVEMENT AREA , is probably directional . change thrust point . would look at possibilities , maybe that spring assist / movement swing point . stay at it , pete        

Its a slow ram but at the cost of speed, it has effortless torque.  Oddly, if lifts the deck higher than ever, the rear wheels are 3" off the ground.  There is a negative, there isnt an "auto stop", but the original lacked that as well, it would just slip.

[peter lena 8,627]

@RED-Z06  got cha ,  always looking at an issue , of course , just about every one of us , has  something different .  just the fact that you went after an issue  is good , going to get some very heavy rain today , been like a swamp heat zone , should make things soggy, glad I got in a cut the other day , also regularly change up my cutting pattern , lawn likes that , pete

[RED-Z06 2,221]

8 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@RED-Z06  got cha ,  always looking at an issue , of course , just about every one of us , has  something different .  just the fact that you went after an issue  is good , going to get some very heavy rain today , been like a swamp heat zone , should make things soggy, glad I got in a cut the other day , also regularly change up my cutting pattern , lawn likes that , pete

I wish my WH decks cut well enough to use on my nice front lawn, always enjoyed using them and they used to cut so well.  WH decks just aren't robust enough i guess, the rear lift bar/roller/height adjuster has alot of stress on it, always seems like they crack the deck and it cuts crooked

[peter lena 8,627]

@RED-Z06  decks are another area for improvement , everyone has their own  issues , the commonality  of crack / rust / stress , has a help zone , been doing this for years , have no rot / rust issues , regularly go over , how things are working , most important is to break the damp / grunge cycle , the opposite  of what it lives in . make sense ? also store them  over winter , facing out as shown  spring held up against a wall stud , the oil soak permanently stains the  underside . the initial hot sun baking , is the transition point , also regularly lube/  verify what's going on , love lucas xtra hd chassis grease , in the bearings , have cleaned out / flushed all related bearings , grease is rated for 550 deg  drop / stress , super quiet bearings , very easy spin up . wonder if your deck stress  , is cracked / binding lift points . would rather have a lubrication , stain then rust any day. none of this is sarcastic  feed back , just what I  have found  to solve the issue , BTW , I use a fine flat file , penetrating oil , to lightly touch up my blades , minimizing metal removal . rear roller bar area , is regularly , checked out , lubricated , recently replaced wheels ,  fresh lucas 550 hi temp / stress grease , also red aerosol spray grease , on any related movement area , don,t  make me come there !  pete     

 

[RED-Z06 2,221]

38 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@RED-Z06  decks are another area for improvement , everyone has their own  issues , the commonality  of crack / rust / stress , has a help zone , been doing this for years , have no rot / rust issues , regularly go over , how things are working , most important is to break the damp / grunge cycle , the opposite  of what it lives in . make sense ? also store them  over winter , facing out as shown  spring held up against a wall stud , the oil soak permanently stains the  underside . the initial hot sun baking , is the transition point , also regularly lube/  verify what's going on , love lucas xtra hd chassis grease , in the bearings , have cleaned out / flushed all related bearings , grease is rated for 550 deg  drop / stress , super quiet bearings , very easy spin up . wonder if your deck stress  , is cracked / binding lift points . would rather have a lubrication , stain then rust any day. none of this is sarcastic  feed back , just what I  have found  to solve the issue , BTW , I use a fine flat file , penetrating oil , to lightly touch up my blades , minimizing metal removal . rear roller bar area , is regularly , checked out , lubricated , recently replaced wheels ,  fresh lucas 550 hi temp / stress grease , also red aerosol spray grease , on any related movement area , don,t  make me come there !  pete     

 

I put on new blades every season, usually get 1 sharpen out of them.  Never get any buildup on top or under.  Ive done alot of welding to the 42sd on my 416, that deck has had numerous failures at the adjustment quadrant to the extent ive had to add bracing.  Shortly after sorting that, it developed many holes and thin spots.  The C100, has never mowed level, never could get it level, now it has holes too.  Spindles all get regular greasing, ive never had to touch one.

The WH shells are thin, welding them is difficult when they wear, there's alot stuff bolted on vs welded on.  I overhauled a 60" yellow deck last month that had alot of rust, I was able to weld 1/8" plate with 130a without burning through.

Edited July 17 by RED-Z06

[peter lena 8,627]

 @RED-Z06that dry crusty bottom is perfect for a putty knife scrape down , and a penetrating oil soak , like picture , do a 2 stage  soak , like a  KNOCK R LOSE , penetrant , for initial soak down , then an over spray with open gear  spray , let stand in sun for hours, deck gets hot and absorbs the lubrication soak , that also  helps it to shed grass , look over mine regularly with a mirror under deck .  your sun / heat set up is what you want for deck preservation .my deck pictures , are how my decks look , heavy open gear oil , stains them black , and they stay that way , my 3 decks look the same . stay after it , pete

[RED-Z06 2,221]

2 hours ago, peter lena said:

 @RED-Z06that dry crusty bottom is perfect for a putty knife scrape down , and a penetrating oil soak , like picture , do a 2 stage  soak , like a  KNOCK R LOSE , penetrant , for initial soak down , then an over spray with open gear  spray , let stand in sun for hours, deck gets hot and absorbs the lubrication soak , that also  helps it to shed grass , look over mine regularly with a mirror under deck .  your sun / heat set up is what you want for deck preservation .my deck pictures , are how my decks look , heavy open gear oil , stains them black , and they stay that way , my 3 decks look the same . stay after it , pete

That deck is getting stripped for parts, the spindles, lift arms, pulleys...are all perfect, but the shell is done, the quadrant keeps breaking off and i fix it, and the shell flexes.  My other 42" will probably also get the good parts stripped off...I just need a shell that im not starting out with a beat up rusted mess.

[peter lena 8,627]

@RED-Z06 done a lot of makeovers , correct , change , remove , REPEDITIVE FAILURES , thats a base line for  anything I do. also made the lubrication change over years ago , there are 12 related bearings in the deck / mule drive , bearing whine , is due to lubrication / heat stress  related failure . only PTO drive cone , is different , inner needle bearing , and outer sealed bearing , napa has that in stock ,inner needle , wipe out ,LIGHTLY  repack  , with lucas green H/D CHASSIS GREASE . have removed all my bearing side shields , clean out , repack with this 550 drop point grease , no related bearing noise at all . have also done the , next to battery , PTO LEVER START  , mess, eliminated erratic sloppy movement / engagement , finished lever rod with  a HEIM joint , very smooth , solid , quiet .  realise this is radical to many / can't do that  , as I  changed it over , it just made sense to , eliminate , repetitive failures . have 3 horses set up the same way , in all areas after trial / error , testing . just how I see it , pete    

[RED-Z06 2,221]

48 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@RED-Z06 done a lot of makeovers , correct , change , remove , REPEDITIVE FAILURES , thats a base line for  anything I do. also made the lubrication change over years ago , there are 12 related bearings in the deck / mule drive , bearing whine , is due to lubrication / heat stress  related failure . only PTO drive cone , is different , inner needle bearing , and outer sealed bearing , napa has that in stock ,inner needle , wipe out ,LIGHTLY  repack  , with lucas green H/D CHASSIS GREASE . have removed all my bearing side shields , clean out , repack with this 550 drop point grease , no related bearing noise at all . have also done the , next to battery , PTO LEVER START  , mess, eliminated erratic sloppy movement / engagement , finished lever rod with  a HEIM joint , very smooth , solid , quiet .  realise this is radical to many / can't do that  , as I  changed it over , it just made sense to , eliminate , repetitive failures . have 3 horses set up the same way , in all areas after trial / error , testing . just how I see it , pete    

Haven't had any noise or lubrication related problems, all my pto cones get rebuilt before i use them.  My problems have mostly centered around cracks, thin metal.