heysavoy 16 #1 Posted June 3 (edited) Hi. I am hoping someone can help me? I have a 1990 WH tractor Model 31-12KE01 with hydro static tranny and while cutting today my tractor just stopped. I heard a banging noise and then it wouldn't go forward or in reverse. I believe it may be a belt that sadly I didn't know I had. Certainly have had to change all the others but not this one. It's still intact but appears damaged. 1) not sure if that's the problem 2) not sure what belt it is or what it's called and 3) not sure how to remove. I assume I have to take all the parts off I have marked (side panel, etc.) Any help would be appreciated as always this website has been a lifesaver over the years as I continue to try and keep the ole boy runnin'. I did get the belt off and it is a NAPA 5L820W 2ddk Edited June 3 by heysavoy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,187 #2 Posted June 3 You are correct about having to remove the belt guard and PTO belt. The drive belt form your tractor is Wheel Horse part # 108501 which is an 82" by 5/8" belt. The Kevlar belts from Tractor Supply work well and are genneraly in stock. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
heysavoy 16 #3 Posted June 4 (edited) 3 hours ago, 953 nut said: You are correct about having to remove the belt guard and PTO belt. The drive belt form your tractor is Wheel Horse part # 108501 which is an 82" by 5/8" belt. The Kevlar belts from Tractor Supply work well and are genneraly in stock. Thanks so much for your reply. I removed the belt guard and PTO belt. I'm hoping I can slip the belt over the fan in the rear that I see and those 2 parts are all I will need to take off. Waiting on new belt to arrive. Any idea on where to find a diagram on how to install? Edited June 4 by heysavoy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,729 #4 Posted June 4 While you have the belt guard off check your idler pulley. A bad bearing in an idler pulley can ruin a belt. Also check the idler spring is in place and not stretched out looking 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,187 #5 Posted June 4 11 hours ago, heysavoy said: how to install The top part of the belt runs below the flat idler pulley, the lower part runs above the rail on the belt guard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
heysavoy 16 #6 Posted June 4 2 minutes ago, 953 nut said: The top part of the belt runs below the flat idler pulley, the lower part runs above the rail on the belt guard. Thanks. Do you know if I can replace the belt without removing the rear tire or the fan that sits near the idler pulley? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,131 #7 Posted June 4 13 hours ago, heysavoy said: I did get the belt off and it is a NAPA 5L820W 2ddk Was it completely broken or did the tensioner spring break? I find it easier to install the new belt by removing the idler pulley and the tensioner spring. Put the belt on the hydro pulley first, then on the engine pulley. No need to remove the fan or wheel although it does make it easier to work with the wheel off. Then, after checking the pulley bearing, install the pulley and then using a flat screw driver or brake spring tool to install the spring. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,212 #8 Posted June 4 (edited) 17 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: I find it easier to install the new belt by removing the idler pulley and the tensioner spring This is one of those jobs where you can resign yourself to having to do some dis- and re-assembly and have it take an hour OR you can not take anything apart and struggle, mightily and unsuccessfully, for two hours--and then do it the one hour way. Edited June 4 by Handy Don 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,608 #9 Posted June 4 @heysavoy agree with others on related opportunities , rear wheel removal / jack stand , is solid safe , often refer to RELATED DRIVE POINTS , any rough / sloppy / binding movement connection , should be addressed , while I am there would also suggest , verify how things work ? add a washer / firm up connection ? dare I say lubricate a RUSTY CONNECTION ? the time to improve things is when / how you see it . my experience with movement anything , is that it can be enhanced , with detailing . as said ,numerous times that , PTO LEVER , SIDE OF DASH start point , is a GOLD MINE , for movement improvement , also agree with , tractor supply aramid , belts . only suggestions . pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
heysavoy 16 #10 Posted June 4 2 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: Was it completely broken or did the tensioner spring break? I find it easier to install the new belt by removing the idler pulley and the tensioner spring. Put the belt on the hydro pulley first, then on the engine pulley. No need to remove the fan or wheel although it does make it easier to work with the wheel off. Then, after checking the pulley bearing, install the pulley and then using a flat screw driver or brake spring tool to install the spring. No it was not completely broken but definitely frayed which was somewhat of a blessing as it allows me to see how it goes on and I also used the belt for a replacement part number. Now I need to see how the idler pulley comes off and how big of a deal it is to take off the tensioner spring as well. Ed said Then, after checking the pulley bearing, install the pulley and then using a flat screw driver or brake spring tool to install the spring. That's the part for me that could be a little dicey. Thanks for taking the time to respond. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
heysavoy 16 #11 Posted June 4 2 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: Was it completely broken or did the tensioner spring break? I find it easier to install the new belt by removing the idler pulley and the tensioner spring. Put the belt on the hydro pulley first, then on the engine pulley. No need to remove the fan or wheel although it does make it easier to work with the wheel off. Then, after checking the pulley bearing, install the pulley and then using a flat screw driver or brake spring tool to install the spring. Thanks for taking the time to respond. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,212 #12 Posted June 4 13 minutes ago, heysavoy said: flat screw driver or brake spring tool to install the spring. There are many ways to do this, of course, but my preferred method is to use vise-grips to it give me a very solid hold on the rearward end of the spring and use the screwdriver to guide the hook end into place. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 6,998 #13 Posted June 4 If you have the rear wheel off, take the time to clean any accumulated dirt off of the cooling fins on the hydraulic unit. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,131 #14 Posted June 4 Easy peasy with a brake spring tool or a large flat screwdriver. You can easily make a tool by grinding a groove in a piece of 3/8" round rod ar grind a groove in an old screwdriver. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
heysavoy 16 #15 Posted June 4 4 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: Easy peasy with a brake spring tool or a large flat screwdriver. You can easily make a tool by grinding a groove in a piece of 3/8" round rod ar grind a groove in an old screwdriver. Awesome. Much appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,212 #16 Posted June 4 Notice how on removal, Ed held his right hand back from the end he was detaching--that way when the spring retracted, the hook end didn’t bite him--I suspect that was learned behavior! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,656 #17 Posted June 5 I use a 1/8 steel rod with a short hook on the end with a pare of vice grips clamped on it. From behind the tractor where I can see the spring hole in the axle housing' Once the spring is in the hole I turn the rod up and push it from behind the spring. i can see the hole in the axle flange 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
