Primary drive pulley stuck on. I’ve tried everything other than cutting the shaft.

[aaronthomas57 13]

Good afternoon everyone, you guys were a ton of help on my last post.

 

Ive read through the forums on the removal of this here pulley.

 

so far I’ve used pullers, blow torch, grub screw has been drilled out (it snapped immediately) at this point I’m at a loss.

 

the pulley itself is toast, but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas before I cut the shaft to get this thing off. 
 

Thanks for you help! 

[aaronthomas57 13]

Here’s where the state of the poor girl now. She hasn’t been started or running in 35 years according to the previous owner. 

[Pullstart 62,883]

Does that have two set screws?  Both have been removed or drilled out completely?

[Achto 27,577]

Like Kevin said, some of those pulleys have 2 set screws.

 

Three jaw pullers do not often work well on pulleys. The pulling force is too far away from the center of the pulley and damage to the pulley is a common result.

 

What I have started doing with pulleys - I drill & tap two holes in the side of the pulley so that I can use a better puller on it. Best if you make the holes fine tread (1/4 - 28 or 5/16 - 24) Pulls better with no damage to the pulley.

Like I did with this brake drum for example.

Edited May 27 by Achto

[Handy Don 12,232]

3 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Does that have two set screws?  Both have been removed or drilled out completely?

One may be in the land between the two sheaves.

 

If the set screw is completely drilled out down into the key, and there is no other set screw, then the only thing holding it on is rust. Others have pointed out that the rust took YEARS to build up and weld those things together. It may take days for penetrant and your efforts to get it loose. Folks here have favorite penetrants. Personally liquid wrench has done ok for me but others folks have their faves (e.g. Kroll, Knock ‘er Loose, PB Blaster, etc.). WD 40 is not a penetrant. In this case, excessive heat risks damaging other components so I’d advise caution.

 

So the first thing is penetrant applied daily and allowed to work.

In anticipation of the pulley busting loose, the next thing I’d do is clean up all the exposed crankshaft that the pulley will have to go over on the way off--especially the keyway and the outer end which might have some mushrooming.

Then, while waiting for the penetrant to work, I’d tap the pulley all around toward the shaft and on the edges and body toward the engine. I’d also use a punch to tap on the key in all directions. The idea is that even slight movement helps the penetrant get where it needs to be to break up the rust.

 

33 minutes ago, aaronthomas57 said:

before I cut the shaft to get this thing off. 

The exposed part of the shaft isn’t what’s holding this on--cutting it off won’t help. Cutting between the pulley and the engine means you’ll need a new crankshaft and guarantee some significant dollars spent at a machine shop as well as possibly on other new components (piston and connecting rod).

[aaronthomas57 13]

29 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

One may be in the land between the two sheaves.

 

If the set screw is completely drilled out down into the key, and there is no other set screw, then the only thing holding it on is rust. Others have pointed out that the rust took YEARS to build up and weld those things together. It may take days for penetrant and your efforts to get it loose. Folks here have favorite penetrants. Personally liquid wrench has done ok for me but others folks have their faves (e.g. Kroll, Knock ‘er Loose, PB Blaster, etc.). WD 40 is not a penetrant. In this case, excessive heat risks damaging other components so I’d advise caution.

 

So the first thing is penetrant applied daily and allowed to work.

In anticipation of the pulley busting loose, the next thing I’d do is clean up all the exposed crankshaft that the pulley will have to go over on the way off--especially the keyway and the outer end which might have some mushrooming.

Then, while waiting for the penetrant to work, I’d tap the pulley all around toward the shaft and on the edges and body toward the engine. I’d also use a punch to tap on the key in all directions. The idea is that even slight movement helps the penetrant get where it needs to be to break up the rust.

 

The exposed part of the shaft isn’t what’s holding this on--cutting it off won’t help. Cutting between the pulley and the engine means you’ll need a new crankshaft and guarantee some significant dollars spent at a machine shop as well as possibly on other new components (piston and connecting rod).

I've owned it for a few weeks now, and since day 1 I've put PB blaster on every single fastener. Even If I don't work on it, I still do a rotation of PB and go about my day. That's not an exaggeration. I've gone through almost a Gallon total. 

I know the exposed part towards the front isn't holding it on, but I was thinking right behind the pulley. I've even thought about hitting the set screw area with a plasma cutter. Maybe I'm just starting to lose my marbles in this heat. 

[cafoose 3,355]

I just pulled one. soaked the screws in penetrating oil for several days and then used a bearing separator with a puller and I won Had to heat the set screws though and I had two set screws. My puller had a dimple on the end of the shaft so I used a nut under the dimple so it would lay flat on the shaft.

[Wayne0 457]

If you've got a lightning scissor, split the pulley down to 1/16" of the shaft and bang a cold chisel into the slot!

[squonk 41,118]

5 minutes ago, cafoose said:

I just pulled one. soaked the screws in penetrating oil for several days and then used a bearing separator with a puller and I won Had to heat the set screws though and I had two set screws. My puller had a dimple on the end of the shaft so I used a nut under the dimple so it would lay flat on the shaft.

Yup Bearing separator behind the pulley. Also heat the part then quench it. 

 

[adsm08 2,060]

1 hour ago, cafoose said:

I just pulled one. soaked the screws in penetrating oil for several days and then used a bearing separator with a puller and I won Had to heat the set screws though and I had two set screws. My puller had a dimple on the end of the shaft so I used a nut under the dimple so it would lay flat on the shaft.

 

I third the motion. This is the setup I'd use on that.

 

This is the set I own, it has worked and held up well on small jobs like this for almost 10 years now. With a few custom attachments I've even rebuilt the transmission in my truck with it.

[wallfish 17,000]

The pulley is already destroyed so don't mess around wasting time trying to get it to slide off the shaft. Cut the pulley! NOT the shaft. Cut down close to the shaft and hammer it off. Or, cut 2 locations if it doesn't pop off right away. Less than a couple minutes. Don't cut into the shaft, the pulley will crack

[953 nut 55,230]

18 minutes ago, wallfish said:

The pulley is already destroyed so don't mess around wasting time trying to get it to slide off the shaft. Cut the pulley! NOT the shaft. Cut down close to the shaft and hammer it off. Or, cut 2 locations if it doesn't pop off right away. Less than a couple minutes. Don't cut into the shaft, the pulley will crack

           Cut directly above the key, that is the thinnest part of the pulley. If you have a cot-off wheel that would be the best tool for the job but a sawzall will work too. You can cut all the way through the pulley and key without damaging the crankshaft. once you have a good cut do what @Wayne0 suggested and drive a cold chisel into the gap to split it open. 

PS   Thet propane torch won't give enough heat to break rusted parts free.

 

[oliver2-44 9,752]

38 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

PS   Thet propane torch won't give enough heat to break rusted parts free.

 

Good Luck!.

[aaronthomas57 13]

Got it fellas. Holy hell. Just kept slamming it with the impact. Used a cutting wheel on the pulley as well

[wallfish 17,000]

 Glad you got it

[cafoose 3,355]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

Thet propane torch won't give enough heat to break rusted parts free.

I just used it to heat the set screws and break them loose after soaking a few days and it seemed to work