Gary S Minnesota 51 #1 Posted May 26 I’m running a 48” SD mower deck on my 314-8. Upon engaging the PTO I hear a whine, screech until the blades get up to speed. Seems quiet after that, no screech but a slight rumble. I’ve adjusted the PTO belt tension which didn’t make any difference. I am considering removing the Mule drive pulleys and greasing them. I happened to have an old, bent Mule drive that I thought would be good to practice on—- removing the bearing seals and greasing etc. I found I couldn’t budge the pulleys off the Mule drive shaft. Didn’t want to bang too hard and ruin anything. Can I apply heat without destroying the seals? Is a press required? Would appreciate any tips you may have. BTW , I can spin both the Mule drive pulleys freely with my finger and they do seem to revolve smoothly? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040 #2 Posted May 26 It may be the pto clutch is slipping. Tighten the trunnion on the end of the rod a turn or two and see if it eliminates the noise. Bearings usually get tight before they get loose and yes they should slide off the shaft. Good location to use Never-seize. Keep track of the two spacers - they are different. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,751 #3 Posted May 26 I would not advocate heat to remove the pulleys....like to make lots worse. Here is what I do for the stuck pulleys. NOTE---be certain to thread the big retaining nut on the shaft. This hasn't failed me yet... 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranger 1,750 #4 Posted May 26 1 hour ago, daveoman1966 said: I would not advocate heat to remove the pulleys....like to make lots worse. Here is what I do for the stuck pulleys. NOTE---be certain to thread the big retaining nut on the shaft. This hasn't failed me yet... Great set up. “PLEASE DO NOT” hit a hardened steel hammer with another hardened steel hammer! You run the very real risk of a trip to the emergency room, and could easily lose an eye! Use a piece of thick mild steel in place of the ball peen hammer, or hit the hammer with a big copper mallet. In any case, “ALWAYS“ wear a full face grinding type face screen, flying metal splinters are NO JOKE!!! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,608 #6 Posted May 26 @ GARRY S MINNESOTA, thats like going home to me ! been doing that for years , COLLECTIVE ROTATIONAL DRAG / lubrication is your issue ! first step use a 6 pt socket breaker bar , on the mule drive , WHILE ON TRACTOR ! MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE ! there are 12 related bearings to the mule drive , if you do not correct the lubrication , to hi temp / stress 550 deg drop point , lucas xhd or lucas marine 570 deg , grease , the bearings fail / bind up . as you break down mule , lay it out , exactly as built , spacer location is vital . personally , removing , bearing side shields , is easy , no roughhousing , small flat putty knife / pocket screwdriver , wipe out original grease , flush with carb cleaner , repack to same amount with lucas X HD green chassis grease . have that on all my stuff , smooth quiet engagement , even detailed in my PTO LEVER START . solid smooth ,none of my bearings WHYINE WITH NOISE , the correct grease stops this common failure , you must change out what's there , my 3 horses have this , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,412 #7 Posted May 26 @Gary S Minnesota I used a kinder, gentler variation of @daveoman1966's method once to successfully remove the pulleys from my mule drive. The key in his setup is supporting the pulleys well, I just used some wood blocks I had laying around. I removed the nut, and then sprayed liberal amounts of PBlaster on the threaded end of the shaft, several times during the course of one particular day. The next morning, all I had to do was gently tap the end of the shaft with a rubber mallet, one time, and the whole assembly slid apart. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #8 Posted May 26 Whack the ballpeen like you got a pair. - Daveoman1966 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 2,046 #9 Posted May 27 On 5/26/2024 at 3:35 AM, ranger said: Great set up. “PLEASE DO NOT” hit a hardened steel hammer with another hardened steel hammer! You run the very real risk of a trip to the emergency room, and could easily lose an eye! Use a piece of thick mild steel in place of the ball peen hammer, or hit the hammer with a big copper mallet. In any case, “ALWAYS“ wear a full face grinding type face screen, flying metal splinters are NO JOKE!!! The king pin from a differential is a good drift. They are long enough to keep a good grip on, and aren't hardened, so they mushroom instead of shatter. Eye protection still highly recommended. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
