Raider 10 re-power

[1mor Project 78]

I am in the process of re-powering my 1969 Raider 10. I bought a K 341 16 HP from a CL ad. I never saw the tractor, but was told it was a 6 spd that he was making a off road mud tractor and wanted a HF Twin. It came with the original drive pulley and clutch. The engine pulley is about 5 3/8 inch diameter. The original techy pulley is about 4 inch, so the old drive belt is too small. The original transmission pulley is about 6 3/8 inch. Is this the same as an 80's C-161? If it is then I am guessing the 80's belt will work( 7473, or 5/8 inch x 81.9). I look forward to the increased ground speed from the bigger drive pulley.

Anybody see any holes in my theory for belt size? I'm just trying to avoid multiple trips to the store to test fit/return, repeat.

Thanks in advance for the help.

[Lee1977 6,656]

5/8" x 84" should work.  You could also pick up a 5/8" x 83". You will also have trouble with a 6 speed belt guard destroying the belt with that large pulley.

[Ed Kennell 38,134]

I buy my belts at Tractor Supply and if I am unsure of the size, I buy the one I think will fit and one an inch longer and one an inch shorter.  Then return the unused belts.

You will need to modify the belt guard so it supports the bottom loop of the belt while declutching and shifting gears.

[1mor Project 78]

Thanks for the replies. I plan to modify or scratch build the belt guard after I install a belt and can see exactly where it runs.

I was at Tractor supply tonight, but their flip file "Catalog" only went back to 2010 with no Wheel Horse section. Fleet Farm had half an isle full of belts but no catalog! I asked the dept mgr. "What good are the belts without a catalog to find your application?" He said "sorry."

My regular Fleet Farm has an old well, worn catalog an inch thick. I am going to that one tomorrow.

[953 nut 55,188]

7 hours ago, 1mor Project said:

The engine pulley is about 5 3/8 inch diameter. The original techy pulley is about 4 inch

Sounds like the engine you bought was on a hydro rather than a gear jammer. You will find that your Raider will be a bit faster with the larger engine pulley but will suffer a bit on pulling power if that is of any concern to you but the 16 HP should make up for that.     

Is the Kohler battery ignition and the Techy a magneto ignition?  If so, we can give you some guidance on rewiring.

 

[Ed Kennell 38,134]

7 hours ago, 1mor Project said:

Thanks for the replies. I plan to modify or scratch build the belt guard after I install a belt and can see exactly where it runs.

I was at Tractor supply tonight, but their flip file "Catalog" only went back to 2010 with no Wheel Horse section. Fleet Farm had half an isle full of belts but no catalog! I asked the dept mgr. "What good are the belts without a catalog to find your application?" He said "sorry."

My regular Fleet Farm has an old well, worn catalog an inch thick. I am going to that one tomorrow.

No belt reference catalogue will list the proper belt for a custom made tractor like the one you are building.   You can get the correct belt length for any factory Wheel Horse tractor from our files.  If you have a belt that is close to the correct length, you can usually fix it to the transmission and tensioner pulleys and by holding it next to the engine pulley, get a pretty close estimate of how much longer or shorter the correct belt must be.  

[Handy Don 12,212]

11 hours ago, 1mor Project said:

an old well, worn catalog an inch thick

I used to enjoy flipping through paper catalogs but I admit to being a convert to online lookups. You can waste SO much more time on the intraweb!

I finally got the Surplus Center to stop sending me their catalog.

Edited May 23 by Handy Don

[bds1984 1,429]

With the K341, you'll never notice the lack of pulling power with that setup.  I have a hydro engine pulley on my C165-8 with a smaller pulley on the transmission and appreciate the definite higher top speed (7-8 mph) more than the perceived lack of pulling power.  Besides, that what low range is for IF you need it.  My local TSC has never given me any issue returning belts I've purchased for project like this.  I have a selection of used belts I keep around so I can size up close and then will go purchase a few new ones in that range.  

[squonk 41,067]

When buying belts pay attention to the prefix. Say you need a 5/8" X84" belt. That would be a 5L840. Not a B84! Wheel horse belts are sized by outside circumference. "A " and " B" series belts are sized by inside circumference. A B84 is actually an 87" belt. This is where folks get all messed up on getting the right belt and then someone chimes in with "you have to use OEM " which is 

Edited May 23 by squonk

[1mor Project 78]

I hope I didn't goof up the pictures. I first tried to drag them from the camera. That didn't seem to work. There should be four.

So for the update. I found an old junk 5/8" belt and cut it, then wrapped it around the pulleys after I blocked the clutch pulley. I clamped a straight edge to fill the gap and measured the gap. This gave me a guess of 82 1/2". I researched some more and found the original hydro belt was 84". My son has a tractor he built with a hydro 12HP motor and he used the hydro belt. I bought an 82,83,and 84. Tried the 84 first and it worked out. Lee1977, you were right on the money. 83 was too short to stretch over the clutch pulley.

The pictures show my progress on the guard. I probably tacked it too many times if I didn't allow enough clearance and have to take it apart again. I'll get it running first before I finish the guard.

I have to dig through my stash of old harness's to find the right plug for the new 5 terminal ignition switch. I plan to copy the 1984 wiring diagram, less the interlock switches and ammeter.

[1mor Project 78]

Well, I finally got back on the Raider Repower. I pulled the old wiring and rewired for 12 volt ignition rather than Magneto. I started with a used 5 pole switch. I wired it according to the marked poles, B,I,S.R.A. That switch is on the right. Nothing worked right. The I terminal had the function of the starter terminal. It has 4 positions instead of 3. Off, on, on, then start all the way to the right with a spring loaded return. I looked through my stash and found a good three position one, off on, start. The outside looks the same as the four position. Works fine now.

Also found the six pole one on the left.  I don't remember where I got these. are they worth keeping?

Next is the PTO clutch.