Wheel Horse 520H Hydro lift arm

[Handy Don 12,212]

27 minutes ago, Mister_520H said:

So mine is either an 88 or an 89. Would I be able to search specifically based on the serial number?

The model number is the key. It’s on a sticker on the fender to the left of the seat.

 

Yes, good plan to use any usable parts from your tractor and only replace the broken/damaged bits.

 

There are four connections to the hydraulic control valve: in from the pump and out to the filter at the rear (either or both can be metal or hose), and the out and back for the cylinder (always hoses). Pictures of the oily things?

 

@Ed Kennell makes an excellent point--you seem to have the benefit of the swept axle added to an earlier model. It’d be nice if you can get a picture of the underside that shows the steering shaft connection from the front tie rods back to the bottom of the fan gear, please. Just to sate our incessant interest in pictures! 

Edited May 24 by Handy Don

[Bill D 1,916]

5 hours ago, Mister_520H said:

Okay so that wasn’t too bad. Get the lift shaft removed from the main shaft was a bit of a puzzler for a few minutes but after thinking it over, I was able to tap it off with a long punch. 
 

So in looking at some photos of others online, mine appears different on that it does two internal arms  whereas the photos I’ve found online show three. Any explanation for this difference?

 

First photo shows mine, second from eBay. What are the other arms for? 

What did you use for penetrating oil?  That shaft is near impossible to get apart.

[Mister_520H 47]

Hey Bill,

 

 It sounds like maybe I just got lucky. I didn’t use any penetrating oil. Being my first go round I didn’t know enough to think this was going to be a pain in the butt. Once I pivoted the shaft forward to allow my long punch to impact the remaining arm it just took 10-12 taps to fully reveal the key and then it just slid off. I initially tried to just pull it off with my bare hands. Haha. 
 

It sounds like sometimes they get rusty but thankfully mine was not. Perhaps the benefit of a minor leak in the hydro lines. 

[Mister_520H 47]

Handy Don,

 

 Here’s a few photos though I’m not sure I’ve captured the angle you’re looking for. 
 

1. Model #
2. Front tie rods from right side

3. Rear swept axle 

4. Source of oil leak

 

[Mister_520H 47]

16 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

The lift page in the illustrated parts lists for you tractor shows what holes are used for the various attachments

https://www.partstree.com/models/41-20oe01-520-h-toro-garden-tractor-1990/hydrostatic-lift-linkage-19/

After going over this thoroughly I see I had made an error in my previous installation. I see that by installing the trunnion in the 1st position (furthest from shaft) on the arm I unintentionally placed the maximum leverage against the arm weld. So that explains the failure. 

 

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

88 model # 31-200E01      89 is 31-200E02      Both had straight front axles and the front tires would not clear the 60" deck.  The PO must have switched to the forward swept axle to be able to run the 60".

 
So according to my serial number, my tractor is in fact a 1989. 

[Ed Kennell 38,133]

7 hours ago, Mister_520H said:

 Here’s a few photos though I’m not sure I’ve captured the angle you’re looking for.

I think Don was asking if your tractor also had the reduction steering system installed along with the forward swept axle.    A picture of the steering box at the junction of the horizontal and vertical steering shafts would show that.    '89s did not come with the forward axle or the reduction steering.

[Mister_520H 47]

17 hours ago, mrc said:

looks like you are running the 60 inch deck.  which is quite heavy compared to any other wh deck.  those 60 inchers have been known to wear out the mid tach-a-matic and/or crack the frame near where the mid tach-a-matic is.  might want to look that over as well.   the rear deck wheels are 6 inch.   i installed 8 inch rear deck wheels and get a much higher cut, 4 inches.

 

regards

mike 

Hey Mike,

 

8” rear wheels sounds like an intelligent solution. Did you just source a standard set at Tractor Supply or do they need to be specific to the deck? 
 

Thanks! 

[peter lena 8,608]

 @Mister_520H  nice write up ! good insight into your situation , have always cut at highest setting , first thing I thinks about is DECK DISCHARGE , the more thats get out , the less trapped buildup , also like larger  rear deck wheels . also that lift lever should have a detailed  lubricant , like red aerosol / paste grease , verify as you go , that would also be a severe drag  / brake movement point ,like lucas green x hd green chassis grease , on movement hi stress areas , incredible difference on deck spindles / mule drive / related . might get some vinyl caps for your front axel top area , helps retain lubrication . sheds debris .  you might also make up a solid lift / drag point , with heavy lift straps , shackles / open hooks , hand ratchet chain lift , make the deck much easier to  move around , would also plan on a regular  , break the grunge cycle , underside look see , might even get the  underside , some , SUN TIME HOT ?  lubrication soak down , kills / stops rust / grunge . enhance every movement area , lube , washer up sloppy points , you can do that , pete    

[Mister_520H 47]

2 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

I think Don was asking if your tractor also had the reduction steering system installed along with the forward swept axle.    A picture of the steering box at the junction of the horizontal and vertical steering shafts would show that.    '89s did not come with the forward axle or the reduction steering.

Ah okay. Will follow up shortly with additional photos. Got some garage time here today to continue cleaning and assessing any additional issues. Would like to resolve the hydro leaks before the new lift arm assembly arrives.

 

28 minutes ago, peter lena said:

 @Mister_520H  nice write up ! good insight into your situation , have always cut at highest setting , first thing I thinks about is DECK DISCHARGE , the more thats get out , the less trapped buildup , also like larger  rear deck wheels . also that lift lever should have a detailed  lubricant , like red aerosol / paste grease , verify as you go , that would also be a severe drag  / brake movement point ,like lucas green x hd green chassis grease , on movement hi stress areas , incredible difference on deck spindles / mule drive / related . might get some vinyl caps for your front axel top area , helps retain lubrication . sheds debris .  you might also make up a solid lift / drag point , with heavy lift straps , shackles / open hooks , hand ratchet chain lift , make the deck much easier to  move around , would also plan on a regular  , break the grunge cycle , underside look see , might even get the  underside , some , SUN TIME HOT ?  lubrication soak down , kills / stops rust / grunge . enhance every movement area , lube , washer up sloppy points , you can do that , pete    

 

I have (2) 60” decks and am currently running a later model with the anti scalp rollers. The tractor came to me with the older style sans rollers and due to my uneven terrain, the deck would frequently scalp and chew up the turf. My lawn is far from better homes and gardens but it bugged me all the same so when I saw the newer version of the 60” available locally, I grabbed it. First thing I did was scrub the underbelly clean with a wire brush and give it a fresh coat of farm implement red paint. It looked brand new but the paint didn’t last much more than a season. Next time (probably this fall) I’ll do it again and this time use a primer first. Rookie mistake? 
 

As for discharge, neither of my decks have ever had the chute and seem to discharge well. But the exit on my newer deck is somewhat reduced as the front and rear edges are bent inward from years of impacts and I’d guess this reduces discharge flow. I’ll correct this next time I get the deck flipped, perhaps today. I do keep the spindles packed with grease, a red variety from tractor supply and also keep all the zircs fed on a regular basis. I like the idea of some caps as they do collect debris quickly. 

[Bill D 1,916]

10 hours ago, Mister_520H said:

Hey Bill,

 

 It sounds like maybe I just got lucky. I didn’t use any penetrating oil. Being my first go round I didn’t know enough to think this was going to be a pain in the butt. Once I pivoted the shaft forward to allow my long punch to impact the remaining arm it just took 10-12 taps to fully reveal the key and then it just slid off. I initially tried to just pull it off with my bare hands. Haha. 
 

It sounds like sometimes they get rusty but thankfully mine was not. Perhaps the benefit of a minor leak in the hydro lines. 

WOW!  That is beyond lucky, more like a miracle.  Those things never come apart that easily.  I wonder if the previous owner had it apart at some point.  

[peter lena 8,608]

@Mister_520H  been doing this for years , complete opposite  of the life it normally lives , the oil soaking , totally imbeds itself , for protection , also a good time to verify what's going on , also do this to my decks , over winter , oiled , held up to wall with a heavy spring . turned out so I can regularly inspect it . that hot sun soak , gets the metal hot , for hours , sheds any build  up like water , use a trouble spot , for a change , went from regular problems to none , just maintenance , is,nt that what you want ? pete   

 

[Handy Don 12,212]

11 hours ago, Mister_520H said:

This image doesn’t reveal any significant leakage that I can spot. My experience with those 35yo swivel-end hose connections is mixed--some have held up while others weep a bit at the swivel. While you have it open, if you are of a mind to replace one or more hoses, I’d check with Wheel Horse Parts and More and K&B. Both of them are supporter member/vendors.

And yes, I’m curious about the reduction steering. A quick check is the number of turns of the steering wheel lock-to-lock. One full turn = standard steering; two full turns = reduction.

Edited May 24 by Handy Don

[Mister_520H 47]

Here’s the steering photo. So is this original or updated to the reducer? 
 

 

[Mister_520H 47]

Also.. I see a zirc I’ve never seen before so that one’s been neglected for years unfortunately. 

[Mister_520H 47]

So if that lift shaft is usually impossible to remove, how are you guys getting the assembly out of the tractor? Now I’m curious. Seems like you’d have to tear that whole section down otherwise. Fun! 

[Handy Don 12,212]

Standard steering.

Neglecting that zerk on the steering block is a big cause of steering looseness, so a good plan to get after it.

BTW, there are shims on the longitudinal steering shaft that can be moved to either side of the steering block to adjust the engagement of the gears.

[Handy Don 12,212]

1 minute ago, Mister_520H said:

So if that lift shaft is usually impossible to remove, how are you guys getting the assembly out of the tractor? Now I’m curious. Seems like you’d have to tear that whole section down otherwise. Fun! 

Generally, that gets left in even in significant renovations!

I got one out of a ruined tractor by cutting the sides of the tunnel. Then used a press to get the shaft out of the arm sleeve after soaking it in penetrant for more than a month.

[Mister_520H 47]

5 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Generally, that gets left in even in significant renovations!

I got one out of a ruined tractor by cutting the sides of the tunnel. Then used a press to get the shaft out of the arm sleeve after soaking it in penetrant for more than a month.

Wow! Well I’m feeling extra fortunate in light of that information. Looking forward to installing the lift arm and will follow the advice of sandwiching the chain with a clevis as this sounds significantly stronger than using a single mounting point. My only question is regarding the holes. In the photos the opposing hole looks of a large diameter so it may require a sleeve to reduce to match the diameter of the smaller hole. 

 

10 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Standard steering.

Neglecting that zerk on the steering block is a big cause of steering looseness, so a good plan to get after it.

BTW, there are shims on the longitudinal steering shaft that can be moved to either side of the steering block to adjust the engagement of the gears.

Steering feels pretty solid to me but now I’m curious if I should hunt for a reducer. Significant improvement? 
 

Photo below shows my rear deck attachment lift arm and I’m curious about the chain attachment. Photos from the pdf above look to show only 2 holes but mine clearly has three with the chain attached at the uppermost hole. Was one hole added or was this an earlier design? 

[Handy Don 12,212]

50 minutes ago, Mister_520H said:

hunt for a reducer. Significant improvement? 

The reduction was one of the last big improvements on the 520 models--it started on the commercial (520-HC) units and then became standard. It basically improves the leverage with more turning of the steering wheel to get the same turn on the front wheels. I think the biggest benefit is when the front is heavy--i.e. a lifted front-end loader or two-stage snowblower. We have this on the camp tractor and my small-statured DIL and granddaughter like it a lot because of the lessened effort to steer and they don’t care about the loss of “nimbleness."

 

58 minutes ago, Mister_520H said:

My only question is regarding the holes. In the photos the opposing hole looks of a large diameter so it may require a sleeve to reduce to match the diameter of the smaller hole. 

I’ve held only one of these and the holes were the same size and aligned on the two parallel arms. Let us know!

 

The “one side” attachment of the chain is ok because it’s bolted snug. 

 

1 hour ago, Mister_520H said:

A couple of things jump out here. First, yes, there is an extra hole and the chain is attached to it! The effect is to somewhat increase the range of the lift (both higher and lower!) and somewhat reduce the lift weight capacity. Definitely a planned PO mod. 

Second, the pin at the end of that lever is showing significant wear. Do you have the capability of doing a weld build up and then grinding it round again?

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

1 hour ago, Mister_520H said:

Ah okay. Will follow up shortly with additional photos. Got some garage time here today to continue cleaning and assessing any additional issues. Would like to resolve the hydro leaks before the new lift arm assembly arrives.

 

 

I have (2) 60” decks and am currently running a later model with the anti scalp rollers. The tractor came to me with the older style sans rollers and due to my uneven terrain, the deck would frequently scalp and chew up the turf. My lawn is far from better homes and gardens but it bugged me all the same so when I saw the newer version of the 60” available locally, I grabbed it. First thing I did was scrub the underbelly clean with a wire brush and give it a fresh coat of farm implement red paint. It looked brand new but the paint didn’t last much more than a season. Next time (probably this fall) I’ll do it again and this time use a primer first. Rookie mistake? 
 

As for discharge, neither of my decks have ever had the chute and seem to discharge well. But the exit on my newer deck is somewhat reduced as the front and rear edges are bent inward from years of impacts and I’d guess this reduces discharge flow. I’ll correct this next time I get the deck flipped, perhaps today. I do keep the spindles packed with grease, a red variety from tractor supply and also keep all the zircs fed on a regular basis. I like the idea of some caps as they do collect debris quickly. 

 re: you using wire wheel and painting underneath deck??????????? I have rehabbed a handful of decks over past couple of years that were in bad condition ... some of which were seriously rusted and corrosion pitted underneath -- so rather than all the labor of hand tools or wire brushes, grinders etc, I took a few decks to professional sand blaster - terrific job and removes every spec of corrosion, especially deep into the pitting which is so hard to remove manually -- and for the cost it certainly offset the messy labor. Then i would use multi coat primer and top coat -- of course there are different strategies and opinions what works best including some using pick up truck bed sealer etc -- so that's a matter of preference - - my only suggestion is whatever your strategy is to seal the deck is to first consider the sand blasting for getting it clean. Good luck

[Handy Don 12,212]

8 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I’ve held only one of these and the holes were the same size and aligned on the two parallel arms. Let us know!

I went and dug up more images of this part and I can see that the holes are different sizes. I’m thinking now that the one I worked on must have had the spacer you mentioned or else a shouldered clevis pin.

[Mister_520H 47]

9 hours ago, Handy Don said:

The reduction was one of the last big improvements on the 520 models--it started on the commercial (520-HC) units and then became standard. It basically improves the leverage with more turning of the steering wheel to get the same turn on the front wheels. I think the biggest benefit is when the front is heavy--i.e. a lifted front-end loader or two-stage snowblower. We have this on the camp tractor and my small-statured DIL and granddaughter like it a lot because of the lessened effort to steer and they don’t care about the loss of “nimbleness."

 

I’ve held only one of these and the holes were the same size and aligned on the two parallel arms. Let us know!

 

The “one side” attachment of the chain is ok because it’s bolted snug. 

 

A couple of things jump out here. First, yes, there is an extra hole and the chain is attached to it! The effect is to somewhat increase the range of the lift (both higher and lower!) and somewhat reduce the lift weight capacity. Definitely a planned PO mod. 

Second, the pin at the end of that lever is showing significant wear. Do you have the capability of doing a weld build up and then grinding it round again?

Ah ha! So a questionable PO mod. Interesting. I will revert to the factory spec when remounting the deck. As for the worn pin, I can weld it up but can’t envision how I’d turn it back down to size due to the shape of the lift arm. I’ll have to look a bit closer at that assembly. 
 

Bill,

 

 Your deck restoration looks terrific. Wow. It appears you were able to source original decals as well. You’ve inspired me. I will wait until the end of the season but I know shop with the capacity to blast something the size of this deck and as I’d like it to last another 3-4 decades, I’d say it’s time to start fresh. 
 

All that being said, I’m the king of “messy labor.” Which is why I’m currently detailing my 520H as though it’s one of my vintage motorcycles. Old habits die hard and yes it will be dirty again soon but cleaning gives me some sense of satisfaction. 
 

I’ve been wanting to rehab my wheels since I got this tractor. The PO kept the chrome hubcaps and the rims are very rough so I’ll add them to the blasting list and give them a fresh coat of paint as well this fall. 

[Handy Don 12,212]

21 minutes ago, Mister_520H said:

turn it back down to size due to the shape of the lift arm.

If your skills are up to it, you could remove that pin and replace it with a new piece of rod. Probably less work than my original suggestion!

WH tended to weld these types of things on only the “back” side of the bar so with care, you could get that piece off and put in a new one!

[Handy Don 12,212]

30 minutes ago, Mister_520H said:

cleaning gives me some sense of satisfaction. 

It’s also the best way to get a really thorough understanding of a  “new to you but you plan to keep it” tractor. And once its cleaned its a lot less work to maintain a degree of cleanliness going forward 

[oliver2-44 9,729]

I’ve never had a 520; but I though you had to have the gear reduction steering for  the 60” deck to fit.  If I off base just say so. Did that P.O. mod some how make the deck hang slightly farther back?