Wheel Horse 520H Hydro lift arm

[Mister_520H 49]

I cut ten acres on my farm with my 520H and with all the rain this year my tractor already has had a workout this season. Today toward the end of 5 hours of cutting I noticed the deck was not lifting and seemed to be stuck in the lowered position. I assumed the lower lift peg had slipped out of position or perhaps the chain had snapped. I pulled the cover to reveal my upper lift arm had almost completely sheared off the upper shaft. Just when I thought my luck was turning around..

 

Ah well. It looks like it won’t be too hard to get this assembly out and weld it back into position. My question is, could I have the linkage, chain etc set up in a way that it’s lifting the deck too far and putting undue pressure on the arm? 
 

Anyone know which hole positions, chain position is correct? 

 

Thanks

 

Photo from this afternoon when we narrowly dodged a serious storm here in western Pennsylvania. 
 

[Lee1977 6,656]

Yes if the chain is set too short the hydro lift will break something.  The mower lift rod was broken on my 520-H when I got it. The second hole in the lift rod is for the mower deck.

[Ed Kennell 38,135]

to the 

 

The lift chain should be adjusted so the rubber bumpers touch the foot boards when the lift cylinder is fully extended.       One of my decks did not have the rubber bumpers so I made some with pipe insulation.

Edited May 23 by Ed Kennell

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040]

The lift page in the illustrated parts lists for you tractor shows what holes are used for the various attachments

https://www.partstree.com/models/41-20oe01-520-h-toro-garden-tractor-1990/hydrostatic-lift-linkage-19/

[Handy Don 12,213]

13 hours ago, Mister_520H said:

My question is, could I have the linkage, chain etc set up in a way that it’s lifting the deck too far and putting undue pressure on the arm? 
 

The hydraulic lift is plenty powerful enough to bend or break things that are not properly adjusted as @Ed Kennell describes!

[Mister_520H 49]

Ah all right guys. I appreciate the input. 
 

Well when I get home I’m going to get this thing stripped down to remove the assembly and I’ll verify setup. My suspicion is that it’s probably incorrect. 
 

I recall adjusting it last season in an effort to lift the deck higher as these decks seem to run so low. I have never cut below the highest setting and I wonder what they were thinking when they designed those adjustments. Putting greens perhaps. 
 

 

[lynnmor 7,305]

3 minutes ago, Mister_520H said:

 

I recall adjusting it last season in an effort to lift the deck higher as these decks seem to run so low. I have never cut below the highest setting and I wonder what they were thinking when they designed those adjustments. Putting greens perhaps. 
 

Get back to the deck manual and set it up as instructed.  The hydraulic lift is not for adjusting the cutting height.  Yes, most WH decks cut rather low but if you inflate the tires correctly, make all adjustments by the book and keep the front to rear almost level you should be able to get it to an acceptable height.

[Handy Don 12,213]

8 minutes ago, Mister_520H said:

wonder what they were thinking when they designed those adjustments.

It helps to remember the era. The “ideal lawn” of the 80’s and 90’s was a smooth carpet, typically cut to 2-½ to 3 inches. That thinking has changed a lot in 30 years!

[Ed Kennell 38,135]

36 minutes ago, Mister_520H said:

 

I recall adjusting it last season in an effort to lift the deck higher as these decks seem to run so low

You should never be mowing with the deck supported by the lift mechanism.  This is probably why the deck carriage and lift arm are worn.

 

When mowing,  the deck should only be supported by the rear deck wheels and the mid attach-a-matic.    The lift chain should be loose.

If you want a higher cut, install larger  diameter deck wheels and level the deck per the manual.

 

BTW,   great picture of your little tractor driver.   

[Mister_520H 49]

Hey Ed,

 

 So yes I only cut with the deck in the lowered position but because of the varied terrain of my property I am lifting and dropping the deck dozens of times throughout my day to negotiate terrain. So my lift arm is definitely getting a workout. 
 

Handy Don,

 

 Ah well that makes sense. My lawn is far from perfectly flat so mowing it very short is not on the menu. 
 

Both of my girls love sitting on the tractor. 

[mrc 812]

looks like you are running the 60 inch deck.  which is quite heavy compared to any other wh deck.  those 60 inchers have been known to wear out the mid tach-a-matic and/or crack the frame near where the mid tach-a-matic is.  might want to look that over as well.   the rear deck wheels are 6 inch.   i installed 8 inch rear deck wheels and get a much higher cut, 4 inches.

 

regards

mike 

[Mister_520H 49]

Mr. C,

 

 You’re telling me! It is one monstrous deck and quite cumbersome to move around. I still flip it over by hand to clean and swap blades and wonder how many more years I’ll be capable of that job. I’ve been thinking about rigging up a lift and need to just get a backhoe to lift the deck for cleaning etc. 

 

I appreciate the tips. I’ll check the carriage assembly etc over while I’ve got it off today. 

[Handy Don 12,213]

1 hour ago, Mister_520H said:

My lawn is far from perfectly flat so mowing it very short is not on the menu. Both of my girls love sitting on the tractor. 

With that terrain, I’d for sure need those armrests!

Mine lawn is pretty level but I still have the deck set at its highest height -- 3.5”.

My son made a rule for his children and the tractors (to which I agree and adhere). They could drive them when they could complete a successful driving test--maneuvering, smooth starts, and emergency stops--without any mods to the tractor or risky moves. Subsequent tests for permission for each implement--garden trailer, mower, sweeper, de-thatcher, snow plow.

Edited May 23 by Handy Don

[Mister_520H 49]

Handy Don,

 

 With my banks, slopes, and drop-offs, I’m not entirely sure my kids will ever get tractor permission here. 

[Handy Don 12,213]

15 minutes ago, Mister_520H said:

With my banks, slopes, and drop-offs, I’m not entirely sure my kids will ever get tractor permission here. 

I can relate, for sure, and (well explained) caution with young ones is a great policy. Yet at some point their maturity and competence will become apparent, right? 😉

[Mister_520H 49]

Okay so that wasn’t too bad. Get the lift shaft removed from the main shaft was a bit of a puzzler for a few minutes but after thinking it over, I was able to tap it off with a long punch. 
 

So in looking at some photos of others online, mine appears different on that it does two internal arms  whereas the photos I’ve found online show three. Any explanation for this difference?

 

First photo shows mine, second from eBay. What are the other arms for? 

[Mister_520H 49]

[Handy Don 12,213]

Frankly, I’m astounded you were able to separate the rock shaft arms from the rockshaft! Heroic! 

 

19 minutes ago, Mister_520H said:

two internal arms  whereas the photos I’ve found online show three

The three-armed version of the rock shaft seems to me to improve the load handling of the lift for heavier mowers (and maybe dozer/gader blades). For the innermost two holes in the dual arms, one can pass a clevis pin through the two arms with the lift link sandwiched between for much stronger support. The single arm’s holes can be prone to wallowing out if the trunnion or clevis from the implement is not really snugly connected and “washered." Note that the outermost hole is only in the longer arm.

 

Since you have a broken off arm, it seems you can make perfect use of the three-arm version!

 

I’m not sure when this changed, but my mid-90’s 520 chassis had three and my late 80’s 518 had two. Possible this coincided with the introduction of the 60” mower or the swept axles?

Edited May 23 by Handy Don

[Mister_520H 49]

Handy,

 

So unless I’m missing something, I saw no method of removing the main shaft from the tractor without separating the two shafts first and due to the angle it didn’t look good for tapping it off from above. Then I noticed if you pivot the outer arm forward the inner arm aligns with the large forward hole where the hydraulic hoses pass through and you can then simply pass your long punch through and while holding the outer arm in position, tap, tap, tap the shafts apart. 
 

I’ll let my wife know that I performed a heroic feat today and she’ll surely be impressed! 
 

So it sounds like, the updated version is the way to go, especially with this big 60” deck. Thankfully there was a complete assembly on eBay for what seemed a reasonable price. Should be here Friday or Saturday. In the meantime and since the tractor is somewhat stripped down, I’ll give it a thorough cleaning and I’d like to replace the main drive belt as I have no idea how old it is. Does anyone happen to know the size off hand? 
 

Thanks!

[Handy Don 12,213]

You might find that the arm on the rock shaft that connects to the hydraulic cylinder differs somewhat from the one you just bought. There were some variations over time in the length/throw of the cylinder. Unless it’s damaged, the one you so blithely tapped out could surely go back in--the 1” shaft diameter never changed. And I’d put a dab of anti-seize goop on there, too!

 

The heroism stems from so many of these tractors being stored outdoors and getting rained on. That rock shaft sleeve then typically has Nature's best rust weld set in. And by the way, yours is the very first broken off rock shaft arm I’ve seen, though I’ve heard of a couple of others.

[Mister_520H 49]

Ah I see what you mean and assumed I might retain the bulk of my original assembly and substitute the lift arm. I can’t be certain as I’ve never done the research but the gentleman I purchased this tractor from seemed to believe it is a 1989 model. Most of the 520’s I’ve seen sport the “Toro” name whereas mine does not which at least to me, along with the earlier drive lever indicates it is an earlier model. I don’t believe it has ever spent a night outside and is in overall remarkably nice condition in spite of the serious duty it serves here on my property. 
 

I did observe after cleaning that the hoses leading out of the box beneath the dash are oily and I’m wondering if they simply need to be tightened at the box or if there is some other explanation for the leak. It must be a rather minor leak as the transmission oil level doesn’t drop notably between changings. 

[Ed Kennell 38,135]

1 hour ago, Mister_520H said:

rom seemed to believe it is a 1989 model

'88 and '89 520s had the motion control on the tunnel.    '90 it went up on the steering column.

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

That hood was on 88-89, 520s

[Mister_520H 49]

So mine is either an 88 or an 89. Would I be able to search specifically based on the serial number?

[Ed Kennell 38,135]

88 model # 31-200E01      89 is 31-200E02      Both had straight front axles and the front tires would not clear the 60" deck.  The PO must have switched to the forward swept axle to be able to run the 60".